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Wife's 2016 limited picked up another nail, in a non repairable spot on the tire.

They recommended replacing two with new, and putting them on the back.

The question, how sensitive is the CVT and current drivetrain to different tire sizes, like the older systems were?

Also is their placement recommendation OK For the Forester and not just a generalization.

 

 

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8 hours ago, gregB said:

Wife's 2016 limited picked up another nail, in a non repairable spot on the tire.

They recommended replacing two with new, and putting them on the back.

The question, how sensitive is the CVT and current drivetrain to different tire sizes, like the older systems were?

Also is their placement recommendation OK For the Forester and not just a generalization.

 

 

Subaru’s were never “sensitive”. Or they’re functionally just as sensitive now as they used to be.  Someone who thinks they used to be sensitive will probably not be comfortable with anything but 4 new tires or doing whatever the shop tells them.  

I routinely buy one, or two, new tires and put them on the positions that wear the fastest.  For me that’s the front. So two new tires go up front or one new one up front of there’s another I see as a good enough matching fit.  

newer cars can ocassionally have a more even front to rear tire wear depending on use. I think this is due to brake and proportioning valve changes which can favor rear braking and reduce nose diving. In some driving styles and environments this could lead to more even wear.  On my $@!&$@& roads and heavy weight front end with 6 cylinders and mountain roads I’ll still see higher front tire wear. 

if the others have reasonable tire depth like 1-2/32nds less than the new one, get one and leave it in the highest wear position when rotating.  Don’t move it.  It’ll wear down to meet the others.  Same with buying two.  Position two new ones in same manner.

there are people getting torque bind at low mileages with perfect tire maintenance. and nearly unheard of data driven statistically relevant trends showing Subaru’s are sensitive. Ive seen towing on two wheels hose the trans. Yes, don’t be egregious but it’s often talked about on some forums like they blow up every time you drive with an under inflated tire.

theyre old enough now that people are ignoring the dead battery TPMS lights and running all the time on low tires with mismatched pressures/rolling diameters. I’m seeing absolutely zero calls, questions, failures, trans demand increases at yards, or cars with blown trans for sale. If it was a big deal we’d be seeing it more often. Be smart, but the latent verbiage on the internet is largely armchair quarterbacking from folks that have only worked on 10 or less Subaru’s = anecdotal.

I would normally think that would be the fronts for a Subaru,  but again driving environment, use, and vehicle will matter.  2 new tires on the rear sounds like it’s coming from someone who’s  working on a lot of other 4WD platforms which are typically rear wheel drive until they’re put into 4WD. That’s not how subaru transmissions work so I’d check that.

Edited by idosubaru
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That being said you said “another nail” - you could get all 4 new tires, keep the good used ones as spares, a full size spare, to sell, and/or get new tires with road hazzard warranty - tire rack, discount tire, etc.

if the tires have any age to them and you need winter traction I’d lean that way even more. Snow traction deteriorates with age more than miles.

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8 hours ago, 3Pin said:

I always buy 4 when possible in a situation like that.  Cheaper that fixing a trans/drive train problem.  my 2 cents

Particularly a 2016 Forester which has a value far exceeding the cost of tires and presumably many years/miles remaining.  If nails/flats/replacement are a local issue, like I said, get tires with a road hazzard warranty. Tire Rack has good tire prices and includes road hazard replacement free. 

Edited by idosubaru
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