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Cormfra

I need help finding out if I need a new Control Unit or ecu on a 90 loyale

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I have a 1990 Subaru loyale with a no start no spark I’ve replaced ignition distributor made sure it is properly wired the only thing is the ignition pulse if I’ve done the test right with a test light.  there is no pulse.   There is also other random stuff that doesn’t work on the car , lights, dash light etc. I wondering if it is infact the ecu that isn’t working and if not other things it would be 

side note there is no check engine light or codes 

 

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Well, the ECU is not smart enough to control lights.

At least start this path by finding your ECU, check its condition, spray plugs and pins with a suitable cleaner.

And post up the numbers on ECU in case a reader has same to offer you. 

A mate fixed a minor ecu problem by contact spray of plugs.

There are 20 different ecu part numbers for EA82 worldwide, over a decade

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Alright 

it’s the only thing I could rhink I shorted something out beside the radio and ever senses it hasn’t started and something’s haven’t been work 

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As mentioned, the ECU has absolutely nothing to do with the lights.

Start at the fuse box. Check all the fuses and fusible links. Look for corrosion.

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14 hours ago, Cormfra said:

Alright 

it’s the only thing I could rhink I shorted something out beside the radio and ever senses it hasn’t started and something’s haven’t been work 

Fusible link is blown.  There's like 4 of them, one is bad.  if they all look good, they have an outer sheathing that hides the internal wiring. test them or gently massage them from one spade to the other and see if they're brittle and crumble internally.

That sentence could mean "you think you shorted something", "you did short something".  

I'm assuming the radio custom wiring caused a short - if that's not the case - then an overcharging alternator could blow out the fusible link and the next one (or 4) you install. 

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Thank you so much.  So this would also case it not to start 

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I tested the corrent on each side of the links all reads about 12.8 to see if the current was making it threw and I also tested the amps and there all .30 of my thing is set right I’m pretty new on this stuff 

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For checking the links, you are better off using a spare light bulb, like a brake light bulb.  One end to the battery - or frame, the other to each end of each link, in turn.  A volt meter is good, and all, but a bad link with a high resistance connection can show as good with no load.  The lamp test is the load.  Even better, check volts while the lamp is lit.

You cannot test amps unless you put the meter in series with whatever load you are testing, and many loads in cars are way too high for typical amp meters, so you really want to know what you are doing before you do that, or you will need a new meter, or worse.

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Okay thank you I’ll try tomorrow

if it’s not that any ideas on what it would be 

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That wasn’t it 

if I got a new Ecu would that fix the ignition pause

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46 minutes ago, Cormfra said:

That wasn’t it 

if I got a new Ecu would that fix the ignition pause

No. You have a power supply problem.

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Grounding for ECU should include both the mounting bracket under the driver dash AND the heavy wire eyelet [in the harness] that bolts onto the thermostat housing. Check those.  And, just curious, with ignition ON and engine OFF, how many blinks does the ECU show. Maybe six blinks that repeat?

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On 6/4/2020 at 1:34 PM, rickyhils said:

Grounding for ECU should include both the mounting bracket under the driver dash AND the heavy wire eyelet [in the harness] that bolts onto the thermostat housing. Check those.  And, just curious, with ignition ON and engine OFF, how many blinks does the ECU show. Maybe six blinks that repeat?

Sorry I’ve been really busy lately.  There are no blinks     I also could not find the heavy eyelet on the wiring harness  

I did make sure the brakes are good and tight and test for ground just in the out side of the ecu 

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5 hours ago, Cormfra said:

Sorry I’ve been really busy lately.  There are no blinks     I also could not find the heavy eyelet on the wiring harness  

I did make sure the brakes are good and tight and test for ground just in the out side of the ecu 

Then as General Disorder said- power supply issue. Even if no codes you should see several blinks in succession as a normal "alive and well" indication.

Edited by rickyhils

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Give us some background?

Was running fine for you for years?

Or you picked it up as a project with a no start?

Something that may help us help you.

Starting to think every no start needs to be asked for compression test and go from there.

Is it a broken dizzy side timing belt causing this no start?

Pull dizzy cap off and confirm rotor turns with engine, you have rotor at all and intact carbon brush inside centre of cap?

Know how to test a coil?

Edited by Step-a-toe

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On 6/27/2020 at 9:57 PM, rickyhils said:

Then as General Disorder said- power supply issue. Even if no codes you should see several blinks in succession as a normal "alive and well" indication.

So something it’s something with the ecu 

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14 minutes ago, Cormfra said:

So something it’s something with the ecu 

Without ECU the car will simply not run at all. I know that much at this point. You need to check voltage going into the ECU. Undo the three 12mm bolts at ECU, then lower it and unplug the connectors. I think check for voltage with the key at ON position. Not sure which pins.

Edited by rickyhils

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On 6/28/2020 at 5:13 AM, Step-a-toe said:

Give us some background?

Was running fine for you for years?

Or you picked it up as a project with a no start?

Something that may help us help you.

Starting to think every no start needs to be asked for compression test and go from there.

Is it a broken dizzy side timing belt causing this no start?

Pull dizzy cap off and confirm rotor turns with engine, you have rotor at all and intact carbon brush inside centre of cap?

Know how to test a coil?

Back ground 

Got it to be a daily drive I drove it for about a month then my friend tired to put a radio in he didn’t discount the batter and shocked him self.   After this it didn’t start no spark          I checked fusible links, relays, fuses, new spark plug, new distributor cap does spin when cranking, new coil, new coil bracket made sure it’s wired right, spark plug wires are good

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3 minutes ago, rickyhils said:

Without ECU the car will simply not run at all. I know that much at this point. You need to check voltage going into the ECU. Undo the three 12mm bolts at ECU and unplug connectors. I think check for voltage with the key at ON position. Not sure which pins.

I will see if I can find out the pins 

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Download the FSM with the following link. As you can see, it is for an 89, but I think they are the same or similar, at least for power distribution. Put the cursor on the link and click the right mouse button. Then left click on "Save Target As", or "Open In New Tab". That option depends on what web browser you are using. If you have to click on Open in new tab, once the PDF is loaded you can right click on a blank area on the page and go to "Save As or Save" and select a folder.

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/Subaru Loyale Leone EA 82 Service Manual 1989.pdf

Once you have the pdf file saved, open it. Scroll all the way to the bottom for the wiring diagrams. There are 8 different diagrams for 8 different models. Find the one for your model (upper left corner of each page, also lower left) and look at the bottom right corner for Battery, Fusible Links, IGN switch and Fuses. Follow the wires to the ECU and other items that do not work.

Some of it is hard to read but you can zoom in.

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It might help again if you can identify the wiring your gifted friend shorted out. Where it is located, more importantly the colours, main and trace

Someone may recognise it.

  • Haha 1

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10 hours ago, Step-a-toe said:

It might help again if you can identify the wiring your gifted friend shorted out. Where it is located, more importantly the colours, main and trace

Someone may recognise it.

It’s all the main radio wires I don’t remember off hand but I’ll look 

 

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12 hours ago, Rampage said:

Download the FSM with the following link. As you can see, it is for an 89, but I think they are the same or similar, at least for power distribution. Put the cursor on the link and click the right mouse button. Then left click on "Save Target As", or "Open In New Tab". That option depends on what web browser you are using. If you have to click on Open in new tab, once the PDF is loaded you can right click on a blank area on the page and go to "Save As or Save" and select a folder.

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/Subaru Loyale Leone EA 82 Service Manual 1989.pdf

Once you have the pdf file saved, open it. Scroll all the way to the bottom for the wiring diagrams. There are 8 different diagrams for 8 different models. Find the one for your model (upper left corner of each page, also lower left) and look at the bottom right corner for Battery, Fusible Links, IGN switch and Fuses. Follow the wires to the ECU and other items that do not work.

Some of it is hard to read but you can zoom in.

Thank you 

I’ll see what I find out 

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