Raynman1989 Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 recently replaced the ej22 in my l series and I get 350km maximum out of a tank, I was getting 450km+ with my previous ej22. I didn't change anything else when fitting the replacement engine. I've replaced all the fluids, spark plugs and air filter. On a side note it also seems to be slightly lacking in power compared to me previous motor but maybe like 5% difference. I did have to swap the intake manifold from the old motor to the new one but everything is connected correctly. Any ideas what could be causing the poor economy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 Have you got all the engine management components from old EJ to swap back into new donk? Doing one by one looking for lost power might reveal cause Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 15 minutes ago, Step-a-toe said: Have you got all the engine management components from old EJ to swap back into new donk? Doing one by one looking for lost power might reveal cause What, no “how big is your tank” for accurate comparison. @Raynman1989 you really need to accurately record the number of litres put into the fuel tank against the distance travelled. This will give you very accurate fuel usage records to compare. The EJ22 - what did it come from, a Gen1 or Gen2, and what was your original EJ22 from? The Gen2 EJ22 has a higher compression ratio to that of the Gen1, yet externally they both look the same. It could be a difference of compression ratio, that or you’ve got a worn engine. Also check for codes Cheers Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 Oh Bennie, you are so right on factual evidence needed here. My EA82T can do almost 800 km to a tank when we talk in general terms When I went for first drive with twins ( carbs not turbos ) my fuel gauge dropped pretty quickly but it was just a coincidence that the gauge started to drop faster for top half of fuel and sort itself by empty. No negative use change to fuel at all. So what signifies a Generation change of EJ22! Will an ecu help decode? Or just a comp test? Wondering if OP used his old injectors or new engines injectors in the manifold swap. Bunking up injectors with poor spray could do harm to power and economy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 1 hour ago, Step-a-toe said: So what signifies a Generation change of EJ22! Will an ecu help decode? Or just a comp test? Wondering if OP used his old injectors or new engines injectors in the manifold swap. Generation change came between the Gen1 and 2 Liberty/Legacy. There will no doubt be differences in wiring and ECU between the two, but these can still run either engine configuration. The way to check is either compression test or remove a cam cover and see if the rocker arms have adjusters on them or not. If adjusters they’re solid rockers and the higher compression Gen2 engine, if no adjusters then it’s a hydraulic lash adjustment and the first gen engine with lower compression. Cheers Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 Now I need to eat into the box of EJ22 I have for a wet year or so do you happen to know month Gen2 started Bennie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 12 minutes ago, Step-a-toe said: Now I need to eat into the box of EJ22 I have for a wet year or so do you happen to know month Gen2 started Bennie? No for Oz. I believe they started in ‘95 and Gen1 ended in ‘94. I think they skipped on a crossover year for once but I’m not 100% sure on that! Cheers Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 (edited) some folks have had knock sensors go bad with no code. bad temp sensor maybe could cause rich running with no code? maybe 'disturbed' exhaust system now has a little blockage somewhere? Edited June 25, 2020 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raynman1989 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 On 6/25/2020 at 7:46 AM, Step-a-toe said: Have you got all the engine management components from old EJ to swap back into new donk? Doing one by one looking for lost power might reveal cause I've still got all the parts from the old motor, which ones do you mean? On 6/25/2020 at 8:05 AM, el_freddo said: What, no “how big is your tank” for accurate comparison. @Raynman1989 you really need to accurately record the number of litres put into the fuel tank against the distance travelled. This will give you very accurate fuel usage records to compare. The EJ22 - what did it come from, a Gen1 or Gen2, and what was your original EJ22 from? The Gen2 EJ22 has a higher compression ratio to that of the Gen1, yet externally they both look the same. It could be a difference of compression ratio, that or you’ve got a worn engine. Also check for codes Cheers Bennie I always reset my trip meter and check how many litres I put it out of habit. The new motor is a phase 1, the old motor im not so sure as it looks quite different when you look closely. I don't think the new motor is that worn, it's done 220000km but was owned by an old lady till 200000km 7 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said: some folks have had knock sensors go bad with no code. bad temp sensor maybe could cause rich running with no code? maybe 'disturbed' exhaust system now has a little blockage somewhere? I swapped in the temp sensor from the old motor so it "should" be fine since it worked before. Could be the exhaust as it was sitting arouns for years with open headers. How do i check for codes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 There’s a set of test connectors, black from memory that you click together, then turn the ignition to the ON position without starting the engine. The check engine light will flash codes that you need to record. Long flash = 10, short flash = 1. Then reference any codes you have as to what they are. The ECU will list in order of where to start first, and it will loop until the ignition is off. You’ll also hear the fuel pump pulsating - on for several seconds, off for the same and so on. If there are no codes you’ll get a consistent single flash sequence that tells you the market designation of that ECU. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 All the engine management components Air flow metres not used? MAP sensor instead? That be one Two, um, swap in old injectors , new ones may be dirty and not spray nice Yep, someone said coolant temp sensor O2 sensor , if it's reading not received or is crap, the default is run rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Steptoe, by swapping the intake manifold it ensures you’re using the same kit to run the engine as the last one was. So the throttle position sensor and injectors move with the intake manifold. Temp sensor, cam, crank and knock sensors need to be removed and swapped while intake is off (easiest for the coolant sensor!). AFM and O2 sensors would remain usually. Th O2 sensor could be quietly faulty if it’s old or been knocked around in the swap. It’s usually a good idea to swap these if you don’t know of their history or it’s been sometime since it was swapped and you think it’s down on power. It doesn’t always throw a code! Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Sometimes some of us need it spelled out in fine detail ( More of those on Facebook thankfully ) And sometimes when it is, an OP might declare something that was not obvious, so I thought worth mentioning but you may have picked it in the EJ22 variety Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raynman1989 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 16 hours ago, el_freddo said: There’s a set of test connectors, black from memory that you click together, then turn the ignition to the ON position without starting the engine. The check engine light will flash codes that you need to record. Long flash = 10, short flash = 1. Then reference any codes you have as to what they are. The ECU will list in order of where to start first, and it will loop until the ignition is off. You’ll also hear the fuel pump pulsating - on for several seconds, off for the same and so on. If there are no codes you’ll get a consistent single flash sequence that tells you the market designation of that ECU. Cheers Bennie I found the connectors I believe they consist of 2 green and 2 black according to someone else. Only problem is the guy who did the ej22 swap seems to have cut of one of the black connector. Any idea what colour the wire should be so i can try and find it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Pin C13 blue/green trace with a single silver dot. Other plug (green) is black/red with a single silver dot - goes to earth essentially. I hope that helps! Do you have a check engine light? B19 Red/Yellow or Red/Green wire. Other side of the light needs to be powered as the ECU earth switches to illuminate the light Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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