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I’ve read mass posts on here about Weber instructions etc., and now I’m super confused. I watched a mechanics shop in AU give a 30 min. “How to” on an 80s Brumby. 
 

confusion: they never mentioned; Plug intake coolant, or EGR delete. 
 

Also: if the connections for the bowl vent valves aren’t connected, the car should still turn over? Mine are both toast. 
 

I purchased directly from Weber (the entire kit, which AU mechanics used) and now I need help. I think my kit will arrive tomorrow (Monday). I have the Hitachi off and I’m ready to go as soon as it arrives. 

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7 hours ago, glsubby said:

... confusion: they never mentioned; Plug intake coolant, or EGR delete ...

Blocking the coolant passage is a Must, otherwise you might get hydrolock or cracks due to water getting onto the cylinders...

Erasing the EGR has proven befefits for the engine, but some people need it to pass emmissions...

Kind Regards.

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Posted (edited)

I have plugged that hole for non Weber jobbies by drill to size to tap a decent size M10 or 12 can't recall

Cut off a bit of a bolt, cut slit to drive it in with sealant -done

EGR is manifold related no change to Weber up.

You won't find bowl vent valves on the Weber so if you have wires to Hitachi they will be best sealed and restrained from shorting to ground on something 

If you have bowl vent air lines....start by plugging up until confusion fades and secondary snort noises excite :)

Edited by Step-a-toe

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4 hours ago, dj_2fuk2 said:

The adaptor plate covers and blocks the coolant passage 

Not in all cases. 

EGR is good for the engine and fuel economy. Keep it. 

GD

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This post you say bought directly from Weber (new)

Your other post sounds like using a preloved Weber

????

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Sorry...I’m a newbie. The carb and kit was purchased new; out of the box installed. 

  • Thanks 1

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The kit's are terrible. Include nothing that you actually need. All you need is the carb, adapter, and short filter. The kits include the tall filter which doesn't fit under the hood without a lift kit. 

GD

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Just looking at a pic above, noticing what I have not seen before...looks like plastic drip tray for the carby or a heat shield. Yeah?

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19 hours ago, dj_2fuk2 said:

The adaptor plate covers and blocks the coolant passage 

And would/should also seal any coolant escape with a paper gasket or chosen sealant left to cure.

glsubby - did you take this step on install?

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23 hours ago, Step-a-toe said:

And would/should also seal any coolant escape with a paper gasket or chosen sealant left to cure.

glsubby - did you take this step on install?

Gasket is not sufficient. The adapter's don't always cover the port since the port is not always in the same place. It's a casting and that port is cast so it moves around. Some will seal, but most will not. Best thing to do is epoxy that port closed.

GD

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I placed a piece of steel wool down it and then used high temp jb weld to plug. Waited over night and then sanded it down to match. My kit came with the smaller air cleaner so it clears the hood. And, it’s the solid plate ea81 adapter. 

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11 hours ago, glsubby said:

I placed a piece of steel wool down it and then used high temp jb weld to plug. Waited over night and then sanded it down to match. My kit came with the smaller air cleaner so it clears the hood. And, it’s the solid plate ea81 adapter. 

Stainless steel wool ?

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Not sure, picked up from a hardware store. I removed the vacuums yesterday and capped lines at the intake manifold. It ran at 3k now instead of above 5k. I'm putting a new accelerator cable on (in case mine is somehow leaving the throttle open). Otherwise, I don't know. The adapter to mani is solid and the gasket is covered 360 degrees by weld. I'll try to get a good picture and post soon.

I'll update once the new cable is on. I know I'm being annoying, but, ironically this is the first car I chose to work on. Good learning curve.

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Engine can't sustain those kinds of RPM without air. You have too much air going into it. Be that from the throttle or otherwise. 

GD

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As GD stated; the gasket and adapter plate have proved insufficient at blocking the passage in my experience. 

I prefer to remove the small coolant line and cap the nipple that feeds it. I remove the nipple from the intake manifold with vise grips simply because I find it more aesthetically pleasing . This has been my method on multiple cars with no failures yet.  

I also prefer to remove the EGR and install an aftermarket blank off plate. They look very clean. I remove the exhaust line from the passenger side head and install tapered plugs in the head and the intake manifold as well. 

Good luck!

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Posted (edited)

EGR is good for lowering cylinder temps and also promotes cruising at slightly higher throttle angles which makes the engine more efficient. No reason to eliminate it. The Weber has a port for EGR control. 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder

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SOLVED: Installed a new accelerator cable and the stock fuel/fuel return (which I had sealed) from the hitachi to the Weber. Adjusted the carb to 800 rpms and now she runs and sounds amazing. My exhaust previously had the cat taken off and Y pipe installed. 
 

thank you!! 

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On 8/26/2020 at 4:01 PM, Step-a-toe said:

Stainless steel wool ?

It's a tactic to make JB weld or a similar epoxy stronger.  Some people have mixed in aluminum drill filings or similar metal as to what it's being used on.  The equivalent of rebar in concrete I suppose.

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