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NuclearDeLorean

EA81 - Possible Head Gasket Leak or...?

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Hello USMB! I’m the proud new guardian of an ‘81 Brat Gl and it’s showing some white frothyness In the oil pour tube, but the dipstick looks clean. I got the car last weekend so I have had zero time to play. I have the tools to do a leakdown test, compression test and a coolant hydrocarbon test, which will all be performed, but I’ve been reading about how non-OEM intake manifold gaskets are garbage and you need to have subaru branded ones. If you don’t have subaru branded ones you can have symptoms of a head gasket leak. Mine looks kinda squishy

Photo of Intake Gasket between intake and passenger head.

 I haven’t noticed bubbles in my radiator (yet) and I haven’t driven it far because I just got it! (Towed home). Previous owner said he suspected the passenger side had an issue. 
 

I'm curious if Retorquing the head on the passenger side is futile and not really necessary (I would to the loosen the nut 60 degrees, ad a bit of oil, tighten to original position, loosen to 60 degrees and repeat five times, then torque to 47ftlb’s In the order shown in the manual.)

I know a leakdown test will be pretty definitive tell tale ...test to perform, but looking for some insight while I wait for the blazing sun to subside a bit. 
 

Thank you everyone! Looking forward to digging through the site :)
 

-Luigi-

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Just saying if I were you I’d pull the engine and get all the gaskets and seals you can while some still exist. 
 

Do it right. You have no idea what really happened and it’s just safe and smart. 
 

After that look to the EJ22 - once the 1800 reaches it point of no return. 
 

Good luck and enjoy it ! Best year to have. 

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Thank you for the reply! I would love to pull the engine and I will! But for now, I’d like to get it running for emissions, and if that proves an issue after the light fixes and tinkering, I will absolutely be yanking the engine. I’ve already purchased the Fel-Pro full gasket set  (And will be purchasing Subaru branded intake manifold and exhaust gaskets ASAP) in anticipation of what I usually do, a pull and reseal. 
 

but going back to the retorquing question, is that a thing on EA81s?

 

Also the 1981 Subaru FSM just showed up! Got some reading to do! Really looking forward to learning. Thank you!

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My new carb also arrived! “Why did you need a new carb? Why didn’t you rebuild? Do you know what you’re doing?“

...well, I needed a new one because the PO and two separate carb shops tried to remove an accelerator pump that’s fused to the carb. No one could remove it, and I found a completely rebuilt one for a great deal, so why not! It bogs bad when you give it any gas but is tuned a bit rich so it’ll run past idle, Didn’t rebuild because of previous answer, and I do not know what I am doing. If I can learn the Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel injection system (installed in 380sl Mercedes, 308 Ferrari’s, and DeLoreans) I can learn this fuel system. I will learn this fuel system. Carbs are like transmissions to me, mysterious and magical. I will learn this fuel system, all check balls, floater thingies, and venturi’s combined!

would have installed today but there was literal burning debris falling from the sky, probably not the best to fall into the intake. Another day, hopefully soon! 

92E1AADD-ADC9-4E4D-ACE8-32D01D9CE1E4.jpeg

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New carb is installed, moved a bracket for the ...choke? , fuel inlet, and the air cleaner center threaded rod and it fired right up! ...after I put fuel into the carb. Do you always need to put fuel into a new carb when you first start it? I cranked it 3 separate times, pulled the fuel line and put it into a jar, and no fuel while cranking. I actually thought I had a bad fuel pump all of a sudden. Change a tire and your headlights don’t work.  I was stumped. Then put fuel down the carb and it fired and ran!
 

Does the fuel pump only run when the engine is running? Not when cranking? I didn’t see any fuel while cranking the engine over.


Now onto the compression test to see if I have a head gasket issue. But as for now, I’ve got about 2 miles on the car and it runs AWESOME. Awesome!!!!!!!

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Well my evap system is leaking so I’ve got a smoke test Tuesday. The carb is now tuned but I didn’t have it tuned when I went to get it tested. DUR! 

I found the idle screw dead center above the gasket. Turned it in until it bottomed out (gently) then backed out 2.5 turns. I then started the car, warmed, dropped idle to around 750-800 using throttle linkage screw, and backed the mixture screw out until I reached the highest idle. Then screwed if back in right before the idle starts dropping. I then dropped the throttle back to 750-800 with throttle linkage screw. 

These are my smog results BEFORE carb tuning and with the leaking evap system. 
 

Anyone know if since I “tuned” my carb using the above method if that is A) correct and B ) going to help my 2500 CO pass?

 

 

E9A34C7D-888E-4416-84D5-EC13B907C65D.jpeg

Edited by NuclearDeLorean

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My choke is not getting 12v so my choke is totally closed at warm temp. I need to find why I do not have 12v at the choke.

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I now have 12V to my choke. The fuse behind the glove box was blown. I have a new carb so maybe something happened back in the day..
The choke is now fully open when the engine is warm. Should drop my CO and help me pass my 2500 smog check! Woo!

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On 9/23/2020 at 12:35 AM, NuclearDeLorean said:

New radiator, 180 degree thermostat, and upper and lower hoses are in. Still flushing the system. 

i went with a 160 degree, that's just what worked best for me, remember you have options if any issues arise.

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Cooling system seems awesome, had a bubble in the lines and then going up a steep hill seemed to clear it. Swapped the radiator cap with a fun one with a gauge and now I’ve got a bubble again. Other than that, temp has been great.
 

Now to find the evap issue that keeps me failing smog! They say something between the Filler neck and the engine. Or the tank and the engine. They said everything in the engine is fine. 
 

57? 23?

 

6E2165E9-4518-4FE5-8ACC-1E42CCE47ACA.jpeg

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