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Aftermarket management might be easier at this point. 

Or go through the heartache of repinning and adding to a NA loom of the same era. 

You will need those wiring pin out diagrams to do this though! 

Cheers 

Bennie

Edited by el_freddo
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Only issue with all that. Motor is from someone’s previous swap. All I have with it is the paperwork. Says it’s a 93 from Japan but that’s not exactly reliable (just something they typed out) might just cut my losses and take a harness out of the 01 I have and change whatever it needs to get the motor to work. I would like to use the ecu that is with the 2.2 because it’s turbo and a m/t But I’ll figure out how to bypass the automatic and swap the motor. Might at a later date flash the ecu to work with the turbo better. (Seen there’s ways to turbo a non turbo without an ecu change) but thanks for the help anyway 

cheers

Edited by 87r34
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If it’s a ‘93 EJ22 from Japan it’s probably either a bogus advert, or the NA EJ22. 

The JDM market got the EJ20G turbo DOHC engine with closed deck block. It was only America that had the SOHC EJ22 turbo with the closed deck block.

I don’t know of any external markings on the case to say that it’s a closed deck EJ22. The first series EJ20G has casing marks in various places (under alternator and on the buldge where the starter motor sits behind the engine bellhousing case - and inside the bell housing area behind the flywheel). 

The markings are a series of lines about 3’m apart from memory. 

The back of the RHS head should be the oil and coolant ports to the turbo. I’ve not seen them on the SOHC because Oz.

Or if the heads are off it’s pretty obvious if it’s a closed deck block ;) 

Cheers 

Bennie

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I'm not clear on what you have vs. what you need.  The car is MISSING A HARNESS??? You have a turbo engine in a non-turbo chassis? 

Suggest you go look here: bbs.legacycentral.org

It's specific to  the '90-'94 Legacy with the EJ22E, including the SS/ Sport Sedan and Touring Wagon / TW with the EJ22T engine.  The SS/TW were all made in Japan; the non-turbos were built both in the US and Japan (I think). The VIN of the car will obviously tell you that. I don't believe the older stuff has the VIN on the engine - there may be a serial number on the back of the bellhousing? But I can't tell you if helps ID the engine.

The EJ22T has the 'cross hatching' (?) on the rear bell housing, which I believe is one way to ID it. Also, there are two ports on each valve cover vs. 1 for the NA/non-turbo. Assuming, somebody didn't just put turbo heads on non-turbo block (like me).

The harness for the turbo vs. non-turbo has only a couple of differences.  See this: https://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=45769

 - pinout link included

- You'd need to add the wiring for the turbo sensors...and source those - if not present.

 

The ECU for the turbo from '91-'94 works in BOTH the MT and AT cars. There's a pin @ the ECU that ID's the tranny type.

You cannot 'flash' the ECU of any '90-'98 USDM Subaru. Unless maybe you have access to Subaru's SSM tool? Aftermarket EM is the only option for the '95-'99 cars. The ECUs from the overseas stuff are very different and would require a lot work to re-pin to make work. 

There was a chip for the EJ22T ECU - but those are no longer made and very hard to find.  The EJ20G ECU from the '92-'96 JDM/EDM/ADM is also VERY similar to the '90-'94 ECU pinout. It does have a few more tuning options, but those are also questionable to source - see robtune.com and look up ESL.

 

And you're crossing  the OBDI vs. OBDII  AND the Phase 1 vs Phase 2 barriers,  so the '01 would be a bad idea. Wiring, electronics, sensors, etc. are not going to play well - if at all.

 

 

Edited by wtdash
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Good info @wtdash

The only way to get a phase 1 block to play with phase 2 engine management is to swap to phase 2 heads on the phase 1 block - and vice versa if using a phase 2 block in a phase 1 engine managed vehicle. 

I reckon you should wait until this engine arrives, then take some pics and post up here. As wtdash said, there are markings to decipher a closed deck block - and they seem to be share with the EJ22T and EJ20G ;) 

I’m hoping you got what you paid for in terms of the closed deck block. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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Yea, please post the whole story if you want some more in-depth information.

 

To answer your original question. The engine management is integrated into the bulkhead harness, so you need all of that from a 1st gen Legacy. The connectors between the bulkhead harness and engine harness changed a few times, so best to get the engine harness, too.

Of course, it would be easiest to get it from a Turbo Legacy. The difference between a turbo and non-turbo harness is very small. The Cam and Crank wires are swapped at the ECU, and the temperature sensors are on the other side of the motor. On those, the ECU is not specific to Auto or Manual, but the harness is. I'd rather modify a non-turbo harness to the turbo, then modify an auto to manual. Of course, if you're stripping it down to merge into another car, it won't much matter.

 

And yes, it will have to be used. These forums (here and legacycentral are probably your best bet) are getting slow, but you still might find something in the classifieds. Facebook groups are great for buying odd parts. Or, junkyards.

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5 minutes ago, Numbchux said:

The connectors between the bulkhead harness and engine harness changed a few times, so best to get the engine harness, too.

 

Oh yeah...What I refer to (mistakenly) as the Intake Manifold /IM harness for the '90-'91 (?) had round vs square connectors  (or vice versa) and maybe 2 vs. 3 connectors?

 

And don't forget ebait.

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1 hour ago, wtdash said:

Oh yeah...What I refer to (mistakenly) as the Intake Manifold /IM harness for the '90-'91 (?) had round vs square connectors  (or vice versa) and maybe 2 vs. 3 connectors?

 

And don't forget ebait.

Exactly right. I don't think I ever knew the pattern on what years/models had what. I think on the one with 3 connectors, the other 2 were the same as a 2 connector model, and the 3rd was all grounds....but I could be wrong. Best to just keep it together if at all possible.

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