suprunner Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 Hi all, Looking for advice. I am looking at purchasing a 2007 OBW. 2.5i, 5mt with 245k on it. It's from an online auto-auction site, that just happens to have their physical address 5 minutes from my house. It's priced at about $1000. I'm able to go look at it, so that is a plus. Anyway, thoughts. Right now I'm assuming that the motor and/or the transmission is shot. I have the transmission/clutch covered, as I have a 5mt from an '05 LGT wagon with about 60k on it, and the clutch is brand new. Motor though, is a different question. Again, I assume it is toast. So, I wanted to know if anyone has ever bought a jdm import from ebay? They claim to have 50-60k on them, and the price is around $1900. If I go that route, should I replace all gaskets before throwing the motor in? Or, should I try and find a short-block/long block from any of the subaru dealers, costing close to $3k? I'm also assuming that the suspension will be tired, and possibly the brakes. Other than that, what else should I consider with this high mileage of OBW? I'm unfamiliar with this generation, so what else should I be looking at having failed or about to? My total price range for everything is $5500-$6000. I've looked at quite a few used cars from that price range, and I only find Subarus that are high mileage and beat-to-crap/neglected by their owners. I'm not really open to jumping to a new platform (GM, Ford, Honda, etc) as I very familiar with subaru, and my time is limited. UNLESS someone has a very compelling argument to do so. The goal is to have a dependable car for at least the next 6 years so that I can get through grad-school and my first few years of work while I pay my loans off. I have to do clinical rotations next year, and because of Covid and its ripple-effect(s), there's a good chance that I'll have to commute a long distance for at least one 12-week rotation. As long as the interior isn't burnt away from a fire, I am fine putting seat-covers on. I really just need the drivetrain (and I guess the A/C since I live in the desert) to work dependably. Are these motors (EJ253, SOHC correct?) prone to oil consumption? Or leakage like all subarus? If I buy one from the dealer, will it still have consumption issues if so? Thanks for your time guys, Greg https://www.copart.com/lot/43891860/clean-title-2007-subaru-legacy-outback-2-5i-nv-las-vegas (please don't buy it out from under me) @1 Lucky Texan@GeneralDisorder@Fairtax4me@Rampage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 I'm not much help on newer stuff, we have a 95 and 97 2.2 RHD Legacy wagons used as mail cars. You pretty much covered things to look for. I have read that some leak oil on the spark plugs. I noticed that the sparkplug wires are blue. Maybe NGK? Our NGKs are blue. I have found (on ours) that somewhere over 280k miles that the "coating" wears off the honeycomb in the cats and sets a code. I installed spark plug extenders on the downstream O2 sensor. Maybe newer ones last longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 other half has an 06 LL Bean version.. body & interior are basically the same.. but his has the 6cyl.. Nice cars actually. rear suspension bushings tend to be an issue on them. don't write off the motor until you have actually driven it.. it might be fine if it was cared for. my EJ251 has 261K and still going strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprunner Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 6 hours ago, Rampage said: I'm not much help on newer stuff, we have a 95 and 97 2.2 RHD Legacy wagons used as mail cars. You pretty much covered things to look for. I have read that some leak oil on the spark plugs. I noticed that the sparkplug wires are blue. Maybe NGK? Our NGKs are blue. I have found (on ours) that somewhere over 280k miles that the "coating" wears off the honeycomb in the cats and sets a code. I installed spark plug extenders on the downstream O2 sensor. Maybe newer ones last longer. Were there any drive-ability symptoms before the spark plug extenders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprunner Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 5 hours ago, heartless said: other half has an 06 LL Bean version.. body & interior are basically the same.. but his has the 6cyl.. Nice cars actually. rear suspension bushings tend to be an issue on them. don't write off the motor until you have actually driven it.. it might be fine if it was cared for. my EJ251 has 261K and still going strong. Thanks for the input. I'm cautious on 250k, and the vehicle being in an auction yard. . . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 9 hours ago, suprunner said: Were there any drive-ability symptoms before the spark plug extenders? Not that I remember. That was several years ago. Just the CEL and code P0420 "Catalyst System Efficiency below threshold". I had swapped the cats from our parts car and that gave it another 100k, but the code came back so I added the extenders. The 95 has 476,073 on it right now. Third engine (over heating) and tranny, because of the mail route (almost 700 mail boxes) and a lead foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 No. I’d rather have something with a known issue - that way you know why it’s discounted. can you aim for something around $3k that needs $2k of work instead of $1k needing a completely overhaul? You should be able to get newer low mileage and less likely work guess you’re out west so prices are inflated a little. But that’s a terrible deal. At that mileage that car is barely worth a $1,000 if it was known running and driving with no immediate issues and not from an auction. I wouldn’t want it. Mechanicals are tired and rust and bushings. I guess if you want to and have the time it’ll be a good learning opportunity. I used to do that 20 years ago (also paying off student loans). and it was good for a learning curve but I had the skillset and grit to buy better vehicles that needed less work. you should easily be able to find something way under your price range for much better without needing any major mechanical work. Find one with a known issue that’s discounted for that reason. I’d get one with a light rear or front end damage that just needs a bumper or doors or has a blown engine or trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 3 hours ago, suprunner said: Were there any drive-ability symptoms before the spark plug extenders? Doesn't work on anything newer than 2004. 2005+ have to have the ECU flashed with open source tools to disable the post-cat fuel trim and secondary O2 codes, etc. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprunner Posted August 25, 2020 Author Share Posted August 25, 2020 Thank you all for replying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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