Jump to content
Ionstorm66

Right pull persisting after alignment+tires

Recommended Posts

So my wagon has always had a right pull to it. Enough that it burns the corner off the right rear from constantly turning left.

I've replaced trailing arm bushings, tie rod ends and put new tires+ 4 wheel alignment. Still pulling.

 

Car drives straight with the wheel straight.

 

Also don't know if it's related but the front right always breaks traction first. Under power or braking.

 

Maybe it's lower control arm bushings?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brake hanging up?

Year and gl / DL / Loyale  might be useful information. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, DaveT said:

Brake hanging up?

Year and gl / DL / Loyale  might be useful information. 

All four wheels spin freely when they are off the ground by hand.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I met a German hand model who drove from our west coast to east coast in a Mitsu van that kept pulling left after left turns or bends. Shredded the tyre in 4,000 km.

It was the left ball joint taper bit that nearly got up and walked out of the workshop on its own, taking a left as it went. 

Top mounts in EA81 are bushes that can seize up. EA82 use a bearing, yet to find one of them frozen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I once had an older model.  Was in an accident.   It was before I did all of my own repairs,  so I had a shop fix it.  It took about a year, but I eventually discovered why it always had a slight pull after the accident.   On of the front struts had a slight bend in it.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Dee2 said:

who did the alignment ?

It's been to two shops. First one aligned it, then checked it after because of the pull. I then took it to a different shop and they checked the alignment. Everything is dead nuts other than one front camber off by 0.4, and there is no adjustment. Guy said that isn't nearly enough for that much pull. It pulls hard enough I can't even let go long enough to shift if I'm holding something.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So the rear is sagging pretty hard so I'm going to replace the springs/struts.

Passenger side is touching the bump stop on level ground, driver has about an inch.

 

 

$80 bucks for the toyota struts and accord springs from rockauto, good old clearance parts!.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, carfreak85 said:

Has your car ever been in a collision?  Bend trailing rod?

Wouldn't that show up with an alignment?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sometimes, brake lines can act like a check valve, maybe the pressure bleeds-off after a while but 'locks' immediately after brake use for sometime.

guys, could this be a broken axle? freewheeling while the good one does all the pulling? (but I still dunno what vehicle this is - might not be possible)

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said:

It's been to two shops. First one aligned it, then checked it after because of the pull. I then took it to a different shop and they checked the alignment. Everything is dead nuts other than one front camber off by 0.4, and there is no adjustment. Guy said that isn't nearly enough for that much pull. It pulls hard enough I can't even let go long enough to shift if I'm holding something.

if it's been to two shops and they agree there is a pull, they should be able to tell you why and give you an estimate for repairs.

If it's not the alignment, we can only guess at possible causes.  It could be tires, brakes, accident damage or ??  Only an inspection can really solve this problem.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/24/2020 at 1:17 PM, 1 Lucky Texan said:

sometimes, brake lines can act like a check valve, maybe the pressure bleeds-off after a while but 'locks' immediately after brake use for sometime.

guys, could this be a broken axle? freewheeling while the good one does all the pulling? (but I still dunno what vehicle this is - might not be possible)

With a broken axle and open front diff, you wouldn't get anywhere with a broken axle. Also the pads wear evenly ok both sides, and the tires spin freely.

Also car doesn't pull when braking before the tire locks up, so both fronts are working.

The biggest issue is the lack of traction on the front right. I have to use 4wd to pull on to the highway in the rain, or it will spin the tire so bad I can't accelerate. Even going into 2nd and 3rs I have to be gentle or it will spin it. Braking isn't as bad, as I am used to it locking up the tire in the rain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the one that spins in the rain - is it diagonally opposite the rear that's on the bump stop?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, DaveT said:

the one that spins in the rain - is it diagonally opposite the rear that's on the bump stop?

Fixed the bump stop issue with new springs and struts. It was on the same side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said:

Fixed the bump stop issue with new springs and struts. It was on the same side.

Well, both of those shoot my thought.
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, DaveT said:

Well, both of those shoot my thought.
 

Yeah real head scratcher. I can't think of anything that wouldn't show up on an alignment that isn't bushings. Tomorrow I'm going to stick a camera in the wheel well and see if it's moving. Could be strut top or lower bushing I guess.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the brakes grab and release properly, the tires spin freely when off the ground and the alignment is within specs yet still pulling, try cross-rotating the front tires.  It's possible tire conicity is causing the problem. 

Edit, just re-read the OP.  You've had the problem before and after replacing 4 tires.  Sorry about that.  But who knows, maybe.  Good luck.

Edited by UnorganizedMechanic

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is so much like when I found the slightly bent strut.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rear tyre toe in/camber shot on the side that scrubs the tyres out? 

They say they’re non adjustable but the rear camber/toe in is changeable from the three bolts on the outer swing arm. I need to do mine but haven’t worked out how to do it with tyres on etc - or how to measure it. I have other issues to sort out first! 

Also, no lift in this rig? 

Cheers 

Bennie

Edited by el_freddo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are in the fb subaru group, I think I posted pictures of how to do the rear alignment there.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, el_freddo said:

Rear tyre toe in/camber shot on the side that scrubs the tyres out? 

They say they’re non adjustable but the rear camber/toe in is changeable from the three bolts on the outer swing arm. I need to do mine but haven’t worked out how to do it with tyres on etc - or how to measure it. I have other issues to sort out first! 

Also, no lift in this rig? 

Cheers 

Bennie

I got a 4 wheel alignment at both places. They checked and adjusted the rear. After the rear drivers has like 0.3 camber there is in the yellow. Dude said it wasn't enough for the pull I had anyway.

2 hours ago, DaveT said:

This is so much like when I found the slightly bent strut.

I'm thinking bent front strut or maybe bad bushings. It has to be something that happens under load.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/22/2020 at 9:29 AM, DaveT said:

Brake hanging up?

Year and gl / DL / Loyale  might be useful information. 

Lol just maybe 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, IfjdmaintAwD said:

Lol just maybe 

It isn't a brake, because the wheels rotate freely when off the ground. Also info is on my profile. Its a 92.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

next time you have it off the ground, stab the brakes and immediately test for smooth rotation. Hydraulic hoses can, rarely, develop a flap from failure of the inner lining that operates as a check valve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×