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Subaru XT H6 i have some things to fix please guide me.


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I got a XT H6 with no turbo. The hot to cold blend mix doesnt move at all, the turn signals dont flash or the hazards, the drivers seat autoseatbelt doesnt move, the rearseats dont fold down, the drivers side door unlocks itself when it is locked but when the door closes the door unlocks itself, i dontn know what winshield wiper type to get because it has a weird one hole thing, the previous owner put in a kill switch because the battery was draining during the night and had to jump it but got a new battery, missing the trim for drivers windshield on the side, the glove box doesnt close at all and the lock for it fell out but is there. Please help me fix these things.

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  • I told you the fix for the air mix in the other thread.
  • The hazards is the flasher relay. Royal pain to get to, but the plug fits standard 3pin flashers. The mount dose not. I bought an electronic on and fitted its guts in the old flasher.
  • The door unlock is normal, hold the handle out as you close
  • For the wipers look down a few threads at my post on it
  • Battery drain is easy to find if you have a multimeter and a fuse adapter
  • Windshield trim is pricey, you have to but the entire thing. Look for it at junk yards.
  • Glove box latch isnt easy to fix. I would install a simple thumb latch. Maybe magnets.
Edited by Ionstorm66
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48 minutes ago, Ionstorm66 said:
  • I told you the fix for the air mix in the other thread.
  • The hazards is the flasher relay. Royal pain to get to, but the plug fits standard 3pin flashers. The mount dose not. I bought an electronic on and fitted its guts in the old flasher.
  • The door unlock is normal, hold the handle out as you close
  • For the wipers look down a few threads at my post on it
  • Battery drain is easy to find if you have a multimeter and a fuse adapter
  • Windshield trim is pricey, you have to but the entire thing. Look for it at junk yards.
  • Glove box latch isnt easy to fix. I would install a simple thumb latch. Maybe magnets.

thanks. its definitely a project car ill spend lots of hours on it.

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battery drain - it's best just to test it properly - test the load between the battery terminal and battery cable - load should be under 100 milliamps. 

you need to make sure nothing is on in the vehicle.  open the doors and trunk and make sure all lights are out - cabin light, trunk light, no dash lights.  you don't want to hook up your meter and then open the door - this turns the cabin light and door ajar light on in the dash...and retracts (or tries to retract) the seat  belt - drawing a bunch of amps to throw off the test or blow your fuse.  you want to leave the door open for easy access to fuse panel and interior components during testing. 

you don't want to guess but any custom wiring is almost certain to be problematic - stereo is a common culprit.  wiper timer, seat belt timer, and clock are as well...and probably nearly anything else on a 30 year old car, but those seem more common than other things. 

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