Hex1 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 (edited) I’m picking up a gen 3 Loyale wagon 5spd 4wd. 375k on the chasis and 150k motor from a wrecked 2WD. It’s been driven daily by the owner for the past month since the motor swap. My plan is to get it ready and reliable for driving up Mt Hood and snow this winter. I mean it already sounds decently reliable while the guy’s been taking it down logging roads solo. But I’d rather work on things now while the weather’s decent to work outside and the lifts aren’t running. I’ve never had a vehicle at this mileage before. Seems a lot of things can wear out in 375k miles. What are some good preemptive measures and maintenance to should take care of? What are some things that could shockingly live forever without touching? Maintenance that’s likely to have happened by 375k? (Not that there’s any way of really knowing) Leaks some oil but seems fine if it stays topped up. How concerned should I be about the head gasket? Motor is only at 150k. Power steering is out but still drives okay. After reading some threads it sounds like some people just drive it and don’t bother fixing. Probably want to avoid any Austin Powers parking scenarios. The struts could be better. It looks like replacing them with stock KYB will raise the rear end. Any remedy here? Or it’s a non issue? Not too worried if that’s an advantage when loaded down. Otherwise it starts, handles, and stops fine. Should I replace springs? Seems like that isn’t a common thing to do around here The A/C works so that should take care of defrosting. Even the rear window defrost works. The heater functions but could be better. The 4WD works. Love the light up display when you hit that Fire Torpedos button! Has (used) snow tires on it already. Debating on buying newer snow tires or all terrains. Eventually I want to do a 2” lift, auxiliary battery, extra lighting. That is, if it doesn’t blow up before I can get to any of that. Priority is to get the thing reliable for the mountain. I have tools but haven’t done any serious car work in a long while and only worked on motorcycles for the past few years. I’m capable but compared to bikes I have a feeling this thing will be more ...involved. So what should I get to work on? Edited October 9, 2020 by Hex1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Look for rust. Typical places: - windscreen surround/corners - under rear fixed side windows, followed by the wheel arches - rocker/sill panels - body work behind the front guards in the section behind front wheels - good place to trap dirt, road grime and moisture - generally under the vehicle, especially if in salt country - at which stage this will rust out super quick anyway if not treated properly. Engine will leak oil like a sieve unless pulled apart, cleaned, cleaned and cleaned before reassembly. If the EA82 blows a head gasket, replace it with an EJ22. You will thank me later Hoard parts! Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hex1 Posted October 9, 2020 Author Share Posted October 9, 2020 Okay so just perpetually top off the oil and let it mark its territory, got it No rust! The PNW doesn’t salt roads. Cities just shut down for 10 days a year when the Snowpocalypse rolls through and panic shoppers clear out the aisles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 most important thing is to make sure the heater core is in good shape. changing a core in these is a huge job or expensive if you cant do it yourself. some people have said theres tricks but essentially the whole dash has to come off. the oil pumps are discontinued, if it goes out then your engine is a boat anchor. if you happen to find one, even used then grab it up. parts stores will try and sell you an ea81 pump (and just about every other part) and tell you it fits but it wont. also for your needs defrost is a must, and the controls are vacuum controlled. leaking system or too much pedal will drop your defrost. I wouldnt be surprised if you have to rig up something in heavy uphill, but at least make sure the system is good. timing belts are pretty much a must, if you have the ability then you should probably do head gaskets too. its a pretty easy job, look up post apocalyptical head surfacing on this site. an interesting read. axles are always a pain on these, save all the washers and parts when swapping them, the cone washers are getting harder to come by do some searching here, theres upgrades for struts and springs using other rig parts. honda front springs and forerunner struts in the back I believe. theres a ton of things that could be bad of course, the center bearing on the driveline, every bushing in the thing. cant really find control arm bushings anymore. tbh, an ej car is a much better choice for what you want, but I like these myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 (edited) 10 hours ago, djellum said: most important thing is to make sure the heater core is in good shape. changing a core in these is a huge job or expensive if you cant do it yourself. some people have said theres tricks but essentially the whole dash has to come off. the oil pumps are discontinued, if it goes out then your engine is a boat anchor. if you happen to find one, even used then grab it up. parts stores will try and sell you an ea81 pump (and just about every other part) and tell you it fits but it wont. also for your needs defrost is a must, and the controls are vacuum controlled. leaking system or too much pedal will drop your defrost. I wouldnt be surprised if you have to rig up something in heavy uphill, but at least make sure the system is good. timing belts are pretty much a must, if you have the ability then you should probably do head gaskets too. its a pretty easy job, look up post apocalyptical head surfacing on this site. an interesting read. axles are always a pain on these, save all the washers and parts when swapping them, the cone washers are getting harder to come by do some searching here, theres upgrades for struts and springs using other rig parts. honda front springs and forerunner struts in the back I believe. theres a ton of things that could be bad of course, the center bearing on the driveline, every bushing in the thing. cant really find control arm bushings anymore. tbh, an ej car is a much better choice for what you want, but I like these myself. SPF makes every suspension bushing for EA82 cars. I have almost every one installed. You get a bit more noise, but it really tightened up the handling. Shifter bushings are the hard one to find. As to the headgaskets, install an after market temp gauge and a new radiator cap. Keep it cool and they last. Also almost every oil leak can be fixed with motor in the car. Make fixing them your top priority. Oil leaks mean loss of pressure. Oil pressure is the number one killer of these motors. They don't need much, but you can't get new oil pumps. Replacing the oil pump seal helps a ton. Always do it when you have the timing belt off. Edited October 9, 2020 by Ionstorm66 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Make sure all 7 cooling system hoses are in good condition, replace one, replace them all... Make sure the radiator is in good condition also. If you run low on coolant, and the temp gauge goes higher than normal, odds are you will need new headgaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hex1 Posted October 11, 2020 Author Share Posted October 11, 2020 (edited) Noticed today how the rear sits higher, possible that someone did the struts with the shorter 2WD fronts already? It doesn’t exactly ride like it has plush suspension Edited October 11, 2020 by Hex1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 That’s stock ride height. If the 2wd struts were fitted it would sit like it was a door slammer drag car... Plush suspension ride, it’s an EA82 running on a platform that is very similar to a VW beetle, it is far from luxurious! Nice looking L too. Very similar to mine before the mods began! If GD finds this thread, expect a harsh reality check the way he sees it - “dead platform, many nla parts, get a Chevy truck etc etc”. Maybe you guys in the US need to look further afield for aftermarket replacement parts as we seem to not have any issues with that over here - and I hope I haven’t just jinxed our parts supplies in saying that! Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 Things to look for: An entirely different platform. Seriously? You can't be serious? You want to get stuck in the woods and starve to death? LoL GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 8 hours ago, el_freddo said: That’s stock ride height. If the 2wd struts were fitted it would sit like it was a door slammer drag car... Plush suspension ride, it’s an EA82 running on a platform that is very similar to a VW beetle, it is far from luxurious! Nice looking L too. Very similar to mine before the mods began! If GD finds this thread, expect a harsh reality check the way he sees it - “dead platform, many nla parts, get a Chevy truck etc etc”. Maybe you guys in the US need to look further afield for aftermarket replacement parts as we seem to not have any issues with that over here - and I hope I haven’t just jinxed our parts supplies in saying that! Cheers Bennie What did you do about the washer bottle when you added the snorkel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 1 hour ago, Ionstorm66 said: What did you do about the washer bottle when you added the snorkel? Ditched it and made up a smaller bottle of about 1L capacity from a juice bottle that fitted the pump in the neck of the bottle. Retained factory filler neck and plumbed into bottom of the bottle. Then cable tied upside down into place. Works well. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 You should fix the oil leak before you get a fire...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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