Dusty87 Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 Cranks wont start I've replaced plugs wires distributor,rotor and ignition coil still nothing any suggestions and I had no spark prior to replacing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 Burnt ignition Module? ... Burnt Fusible Links? Check out the fusible links at the small black Box over the coolant reservoir tank. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 check for power to the coil. Power to the ECU. Test before buying parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 On 12/13/2020 at 10:00 AM, Loyale 2.7 Turbo said: Burnt ignition Module? ... Burnt Fusible Links? Check out the fusible links at the small black Box over the coolant reservoir tank. Kind Regards. Links are fine I had to replace one because of faulty alternator I will go through the list thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 What check engine codes are flashing? If the alt failed by overcharging - which the burnt link suggests - it may have damaged some other components as well. Overcharging alt took out my XT6 TCU two years ago, and fusible link and another smaller item or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 14 hours ago, Dusty87 said: Links are fine I had to replace one because of faulty alternator I will go through the list thank you Where is ignition module located Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 12 hours ago, idosubaru said: What check engine codes are flashing? If the alt failed by overcharging - which the burnt link suggests - it may have damaged some other components as well. Overcharging alt took out my XT6 TCU two years ago, and fusible link and another smaller item or two. No codes I haven't had it checked I thought the readers only were made for 95 models and up? And I replaced the link months ago but had 1 faulty alternator from orielys so had the 2nd tested beforehand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 To read the codes, remove the plastic panel under the driver side dash. Then locate the ECU. It is a grey or painted box bolted to the bottom of the steering column. There is a hole on the edge facing the driver. The red LED blinks the codes. Long blink is 10s place, short are 1s place. Key in run position, it blinks any current problems. It is a very simple system, so it doesn't know everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 6 hours ago, DaveT said: To read the codes, remove the plastic panel under the driver side dash. Then locate the ECU. It is a grey or painted box bolted to the bottom of the steering column. There is a hole on the edge facing the driver. The red LED blinks the codes. Long blink is 10s place, short are 1s place. Key in run position, it blinks any current problems. It is a very simple system, so it doesn't know everything. 7 blinks 1sec then 7 again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 That's the no code things are ok code. All trouble codes are 2 digit. The ECU doesn't know everything, so it is quite common to have failures it doesn't see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 29 minutes ago, DaveT said: That's the no code things are ok code. All trouble codes are 2 digit. The ECU doesn't know everything, so it is quite common to have failures it doesn't see. I have no clue what to go for next any suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 Check that voltage is getting to the coil and the ECU. With a volt meter , key in run position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 On 12/17/2020 at 2:21 AM, Dusty87 said: Where is ignition module located Inside the distributor. Is the electronic part that substituted the points, found on older distributors, it generates the spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 The part in the distributor is the timing sensor. It signals the ECU. The ECU fires a transistor on the coil bracket. The coil generates the spark when fired by the transistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 On 12/18/2020 at 8:51 PM, Loyale 2.7 Turbo said: Inside the distributor. Is the electronic part that substituted the points, found on older distributors, it generates the spark. Would I half to take out the entire distributor to get to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 Rotor tries to turn but won't Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 35 minutes ago, Dusty87 said: Rotor tries to turn but won't Do you mean the rotor does not turn when cranking? That indicates broken timing belt/s. It won't turn far by hand,as it is connected to the entire engine's moving parts. You would break something if you try to turn the engine via the distributor shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 1 hour ago, Dusty87 said: Would I half to take out the entire distributor to get to it? Nope. 58 minutes ago, Dusty87 said: Rotor tries to turn but won't Broken timing belt for sure, unless you installed the wrong distributor or in a wrong way, when you swapped it. I would start by checking the Timing Belts and components, then the mere distributor itself. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 39 minutes ago, DaveT said: Do you mean the rotor does not turn when cranking? That indicates broken timing belt/s. It won't turn far by hand,as it is connected to the entire engine's moving parts. You would break something if you try to turn the engine via the distributor shaft. Yes when cranking sry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 Take off the timing covers. When you need help with the belts there’s archives here. You’ll be ok , just follow instructions. Most people will guess it’s the belt on the drivers (left) side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 Rotor not turning while cranking - first thing to check is the driver side timing belt. Replace both belts and all 3 idlers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Second thing to check (if the belt is good) is that the rotor button’s retainer screw is installed. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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