Regno Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share Posted January 9, 2021 @GeneralDisorder, that's all I needed to hear. I appreciate the blunt honesty, I will employ the KISS philosophy from here on out. Like I said before, when it comes to Subaru engines I will admit I am not the most knowledgeable but talking to people on other forums made it seem like rebuilding a Subaru engine was more complicated than putting a man on the moon. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 3 hours ago, Regno said: @GeneralDisorder, that's all I needed to hear. I appreciate the blunt honesty, I will employ the KISS philosophy from here on out. Like I said before, when it comes to Subaru engines I will admit I am not the most knowledgeable but talking to people on other forums made it seem like rebuilding a Subaru engine was more complicated than putting a man on the moon. Thanks again It gets fairly involved if you split the block. That's where they get the nasty reputation for being complicated and unforgiving. I've spent the better part of a decade making a career of figuring out exactly how to perform that process. It's not information that I'm particularly interested in sharing because of the difficulty. It's almost a "trade secret" if you will. In fact in all the years (about 11 years now) I have managed to train only 2 people successfully to rebuild short blocks. And they both essentially just go through the motions per my stringent guidelines. We have essentially a 100% success rate but it's not cheap to do it The Right Way. It makes rebuilding them basically a lost cause unless you are building a performance engine for high horsepower. Otherwise we just get new or reman blocks from Subaru. It's cheaper and Subaru backs them with a warranty. The very slight advantage that a rebuild has in cost is consumed real quick when you consider the warranty advantage. We build engines at my shop - quite a few in fact. But they are ALL built from brand new parts - new case halves, new crank, new rods, new pistons, and new bearings. GD 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regno Posted January 12, 2021 Author Share Posted January 12, 2021 @GeneralDisorder, yeah I totally understand, from the research I have done it seems like rebuilding a proper Subaru engine from the ground up takes a good deal of knowledge, experience and an eye for meticulous detail and perfection. I have heard way to many stories about weekend warriors and self proclaimed backyard mechanics who have taken on the task of a full rebuild with little to no experience only to have the engine completely fail within a very short time span. Just about anyone can completely dismantle a subaru engine into a pile of parts in a matter of hours, its putting the engine back together properly so it not only has longevity but it also doesn't have oil leaking and flowing from every seam, gasket, seal, or orifice like the Mississippi river. Once again, I appreciate the sound advice. On another note, when you do your complete rebuilds do you use 100% genuine OEM Subaru parts? And one more question I have for you, is it beneficial or helpful to upgrade from the stock 7mm oil pump on these cars to something slightly larger or is that just a waste of money? I hear a lot of people talk about upgrading to a 10mm pump even on just a daily driver and not a performance driven build. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 ABSOLUTELY get rid of the 7mm pump. Those things are DEATH. You need a 10mm or an 11mm. All the EJ engines had 10's back to their introduction in 89. They started doing the 9's and the 7's in the early 2000's for an attempt at a fuel economy improvement. It didn't help enough to talk about and when the engines get older the mainline clearance gets WIDE and you need the extra volume or you take out the rods. As far as Genuine Subaru parts - depends. Not many genuine Subaru parts that are good at 800 crank HP so in many cases no. Yes for blocks and cranks. No for pistons and rods and bearings. Most gaskets, seals, and hoses we buy from our dealership. Except when better durability is required in certain areas. For non-turbo applications the factory parts are about as good as you need and often are as good as you can get due to less support on that side of things. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regno Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 @GeneralDisorder, I have a 10mm oil pump that came off a 1999 or 2000 Subaru GT wagon that appears to be in really nice shape, I got it from a friend that bought it new from subaru and ran it on his car for only a couple thousand miles. Would this be a good upgrade over my current 7mm pump? The one minor issue is that he pulled the back cover off it to check it out or possibly clean it for some reason, I'm not sure. I received it in its disassembled state so I don't really know how to go about or how to begin realigning or clocking the two rotors in relation to each other and possibly the housing. Is there any helpful advice/pictures/ or how to guides that you know of that could help me out in this situation? I can see that each rotor has a small punch mark on each of them and it appears the housing might also. Where do I begin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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