80BratGage 2 Posted February 20 Hey guys a little help. Looking at Fuel Pumps online and I notice most of the low psi recommend placing them close to tank . I know the stock was located under the hood . Not sure if there is an aftermarket pump y’all have had luck with? Or can I get a higher psi with a pressure regulator ? Is it easier to bypass than to try and connect to the voltage regulator? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moosens 542 Posted February 20 Kind of working in reverse , have you yet tried to jump the fuel pump with a couple of leads from the battery ? Check the archives ? I know that gets annoying so I understand if you didn’t strike gold if you did. From horrible memory I want to say 3psi is fine. Not sure you’d require a significantly more powerful pump with a stock Hitachi. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Subasaurus 197 Posted February 20 13 hours ago, 80BratGage said: Hey guys a little help. Looking at Fuel Pumps online and I notice most of the low psi recommend placing them close to tank . I know the stock was located under the hood . Not sure if there is an aftermarket pump y’all have had luck with? Or can I get a higher psi with a pressure regulator ? Is it easier to bypass than to try and connect to the voltage regulator? i just use the crappy Mr. Gasket fuel pump, but they always guaranteed go out every year and a half if you use the vehicle 3-4 times a week. i was able to get 2+years out of mine it by purchasing the 5-7psi for domestic vehicles, and also installing an adjustable regulator and dropped the pressure to 2.5psi. it's suppose to be 3-5psi. theres a fuel pump for 3-5 psi by mr gasket fuel pump but it seems to not last as long as the higher psi one, just keep in mind the fuel pump is overpriced for what it is ($70) and the regulator is too ($30). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Subasaurus 197 Posted February 20 also my fuel pump is located where the stock one would have mounted at, I bent the 2 studs sticking out apart from each other just a tad and it fit right in. i also recommend checking voltage at the pump first, both my first gen subaru's i've had have had 1-3 volts at the end of the wire, never understood why but i ran a new power source and wires and on a relay with key on, just make sure your power source doesn't turn off when cranking lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
80BratGage 2 Posted March 4 I’ve given up all hope of finding a bolt that will work as the drain plug. Going to be carefully welding it shut. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moosens 542 Posted March 4 Well if there’s some time constraints I guess that’s ok. Just seems too easy to have to bypass but you’re the one who’s exhausted yourself. Having a hard time figuring why you can’t score the correct bolt. I’d be money there’s a bolt on your vehicle that is the same size and thread pitch. At least if you found one you could then read the size and pitch. Seems weird that nobody has a bolt plug , nobody has a tank laying around , and nobody has ever checked the size. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Subasaurus 197 Posted March 4 i wouldn't weld it if it was me, there's brats to be found at the junkyards, there's just not many, owning a first gen Subaru is literally a waiting game for parts. try installing one of those emergency rubber oil drain plugs instead for the time being, they grab on from the inside and seal by pressing a rubber plug against it, don't remember the name of them but it's the "oh crap" plug after stripping an OS plug (oversize drain plug). can't remember how big that hole is though, been like 6 years since i've drained my tank. tanks that don't have rust holes are hard to find, plus it's a neat feature you don't see on cars anymore due to safety, and living up north, i would leave the unique feature to drain water out. have you tried buying a thread pitch gauge and measuring the hole size with a micrometer or a bolt itself with the wrong pitch and go to your local hardware store to compare and such? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moosens 542 Posted March 9 Only thing I’ve found that I would be works is the part number for the FF1 tank plug. Being a Subaru I’m guessing that bolt stayed the same through the next couple of generations. p/n 6421 28000 Thats the original part number. By now there was likely a superseded number. But a good parts guy can dig and find out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
travelvw 13 Posted March 9 Pretty sure this is it. I can't verify because the gas tank was ruined and has since been scrapped. K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
80BratGage 2 Posted March 10 On 3/9/2021 at 11:47 AM, travelvw said: Pretty sure this is it. I can't verify because the gas tank was ruined and has since been scrapped. K Willing to part with it ? I have the tank off and have been to every hardware/specialty store in my area. Boise . They all told me because the thread is recessed they couldn’t do anything .when I asked about the plug you guys mentioned they all told me the rubber wasn’t rated for fuel. I’m going to wait on welding it . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
80BratGage 2 Posted March 10 I’m going to use one of the rubber plugs for the time being so I can get going on other things. Do need some help with the aftermarket fuel pump and getting it somewhat safe. Any help with relay info would be appreciated as I’ve never done one. I’ve done a little while doing body work but that’s mostly just take out and replace type of stuff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
travelvw 13 Posted March 11 16 hours ago, 80BratGage said: Willing to part with it ? I have the tank off and have been to every hardware/specialty store in my area. Boise . They all told me because the thread is recessed they couldn’t do anything .when I asked about the plug you guys mentioned they all told me the rubber wasn’t rated for fuel. I’m going to wait on welding it . Yes of course, I'm not using a stock gas tank. Message me and we'll figure out how to get it to you. I saved every piece of hardware off my brat and nothing else looked like that bolt, so this has to be it. K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Subasaurus 197 Posted March 11 that's it, that's the fuel tank plug, mine didn't have a rubber seal to it, it just seals. relays are simple as long as you use a 4 pin type. 2 are usually silver, and 2 are gold plated, i don't remember which is which but one of those pairs controls the low current switch, meaning one goes to ground, the other you'll need to find a switch hot but a hot that stays on while cranking. you can test for this with a multimeter and disconnecting the wire that activates the solenoid to your starter so you don't wear that part out, and have someone "crank" with the key while you search for a hot, i don't remember what i grabbed onto but i don't recommend the ignition coil circuit. the other 2 pins are the high amperage load switch, you run a FUSED hot from the battery with fresh wire, connect that to the high load side of the relay, connect another wire to the last remaining port on the relay which would be the corresponding high load pair, route it around the back of the engine against the firewall and connect it to your fuel pump. the hardest thing out of all this is finding a switched hot with the ignition key on and cranking. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Subasaurus 197 Posted March 11 there's also another type of relays that doesn't have the spade terminals poking out of it colored already, instead it has numbers on the top or side of the relay, 86 and 85 are your low current, should click loudly if current is given to those 2 pins (literally negative and positive to it). 30 and 87 are your high current paths, high amperage comes in (+), and high amperage goes out (+). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
travelvw 13 Posted March 11 1 hour ago, Subasaurus said: that's it, that's the fuel tank plug, mine didn't have a rubber seal to it, it just seals. Thanks for verifying. It did have a paper seal (thick carburetor gasket like material). I would use aviation brown sealant on the threads and gasket. K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
80BratGage 2 Posted March 21 Thanks guys got the fuel pump going . On to the next thing. I got the tank on, carb rebuilt, the fuel pump going, new spark plugs and new battery cables. I can get it to fire but she doesn’t want to idle without me accelerating. I am getting fuel to carb but I am dealing with a little orange tinted gas I think from some of the hard lines I didn’t replace. Any ideas ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moosens 542 Posted March 21 How did you deal with the tank lining ? Confident you got all the rust and rinsed it well ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
80BratGage 2 Posted March 21 Yeah I rinsed the tank until was getting clear water. I’ve located a drain bolt but for now I have a universal oil plug that is working. I can get her to fire I just have to keep applying gas or it dies. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
80BratGage 2 Posted March 21 And before rinsing with water I used a rust away type stuff. Also took it to the local car wash and sprayed it good. It had more varnish gas than rust really. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moosens 542 Posted March 21 To go about it like we all wish we could I’d say take each line off and blow it out in reverse into a catch can/jar. You’ll know what each line looks like then. Ain’t many of them. Won’t take too long. I’m sure you know this but best to get a clear view in all associated lines and components while you have the opportunity. Keep notes. The vehicle isn’t the only thing getting older. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moosens 542 Posted March 21 Segway from my last line above, these older wonderful rides deserve a logbook going forward. My suggestion to you and all with classics. Given most will be weekend only cars then as the Chinese proverb goes “no memory is as clear as faded ink” or something like that. Enjoy ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
80BratGage 2 Posted March 21 I’ve been running the fuel through the lines just with the pump jumped and it’s getting clearer each time, I also noticed the Anti Diesel Switch wire is pretty frayed should I just take the pin out ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
80BratGage 2 Posted March 21 Was also thinking about adding a fuel system cleaner to the next round of gas I run through it. I’ve just been filling a gas tank then periodically filling a glass jar to Inpsect. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
80BratGage 2 Posted March 21 I’m sure there could be multiple reasons it won’t idle without me accelerating including the bad gas right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
