johnnicakes Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 I have 2 (two) 1997 Legacy wagons. EJ22 5MT Normally aspirated. Both took the beating a career pizza delivery guy could dish and now one at ~270,000 miles; each has a HG leak. I will soon commence the HG replacement and clutch on one. I am looking for several pieces of advice, tips, tricks and whatever input persons with experience may have... HG thickness/brand -- I see MLS in varying thicknesses from 0.040" to 0.088" available from Cometic, Six Star and Mahle. Clutch kits -- plates, flywheels brands seem to be about the same from various suppliers with the throw bearing being a crucial subaru component. Engine Hoist/ mount-- Since I will be replacing the clutch as well obviously pulling the engine is essential and makes HG replacement easier. Can I get by with a rope pulley system from the garage rafters lowered onto brick/wood support (I don't really want to be working on the engine on the ground) or should I rent/purchase engine hoist and mount? Thanks in advance- John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Subaru gasket. Those others and variable thickness are unnecessary. Clean the head bolts, holes, and resurface the heads. You don't need an engine stand. An old tire works well for holding the engine if your capable of moving it around some. Prop the tire up on wood or pavers or stone or whatever and you're golden. "Rafters" - just don't do a point load of one or a couple points - spread the load out over as many "rafters" as possible. Lay some 2x lumber edgewise across as many rafters as you can - preferrably spreading it out over a few rafters/trusses rather than just one or two rafters and one or two points. Lay a couple 12' 2x's across 3 or 6 or whatever you can get rafters and then use that, rather than the rafters, to hoist from. Garage "rafters" are too variable in spacing, design, loading, rafters/trusses/bottom chords, hurricane straps, tornado, local code, outside of code..and are they already loaded with storage or compromised due to age in some way... etc to comment. Ideally you have 2' spacing trusses, some "pole barn" type garages like metal siding/roofing company installed versions are 4+ spacing. Most aren't designed for any significant live or point loads like you're intending but you can get away with it just fine if you spread the load out like I said. Don't be dumb or just hook it up and go - think about it for a couple minutes, slide some boards up there and you'll be fine....I mean as fine as you can be without sending me pictures of the rafters...legal disclaimer...you might die...etc. I designed roofing systems for my first engineering job, we specialized in complex structures.....not your typical home builders/congtractor or lowes type stuff, though i did plenty of that easy stuff as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 2 2x4's across two rafters will work, or even a 4x4 as close to where there is a truss as possible. They don't have to be much longer than the span they have to cross. If you can, secure the ends to the joists. The weight will be where the pulley is, so the length won't matter. Don't even remember the quantity of engines I lifted with just a chain through my house garage ceiling and a come a long. Just don't try to do an engine and tranny in one piece!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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