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KiwiGL

The grey ghost - 1984 JDM Turbo sedan

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Have now installed an aftermarket digital temp gauge. The one on the digi dash only works about 50% of the time and seems to jump around randomly a bit. Numbers seem sensible on the digi one, sits around 85-90 in all driving. Also did a full coolant flush - the colour could best be described as rust. Took 15 litres of distilled water and about 3 hours of repeated flushing to get that out of it... Now pristine green.

I also have a idler bearing on its way out. I suspect it's the aircon. Which is a pain.

General maintenance wise, it needs a few belts and seals replaced. That's a longer term thing to do though.

Also want to do the trans and diff oils after seeing the coolant... Wasn't flash.

And lastly, the electric fan wiring is definitely a little dodgy. Doesn't come on with the switch on the dash anymore. Need to take a look at that.

But she drives beautifully. I've got a few Subaru nut friends and they all can't believe how good it is.

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Love these pre-facelift third-gens.

Has the early dash-gauge-bezel without the sun-shade that you normally see on '86 + Leones... and the triangle-less, door-skin-mounted side-view-mirrors, perfect for making the wind whistle...

Had an '85 USDM wagon myself before... many of the same early body features...

Did they use the Orange Coolant?... or just never serviced...

The cooling fan wired to the toggle switch is par for the course, half my rides are set up that way... although it is nice when they work the way they're designed.

Enjoy the Sedan, looks like an awesome ride.

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7 hours ago, KiwiGL said:

Have now installed an aftermarket digital temp gauge. The one on the digi dash only works about 50% of the time and seems to jump around randomly a bit. Numbers seem sensible on the digi one, sits around 85-90 in all driving. Also did a full coolant flush - the colour could best be described as rust. Took 15 litres of distilled water and about 3 hours of repeated flushing to get that out of it... Now pristine green.

I also have a idler bearing on its way out. I suspect it's the aircon. Which is a pain.

General maintenance wise, it needs a few belts and seals replaced. That's a longer term thing to do though.

Also want to do the trans and diff oils after seeing the coolant... Wasn't flash.

And lastly, the electric fan wiring is definitely a little dodgy. Doesn't come on with the switch on the dash anymore. Need to take a look at that.

But she drives beautifully. I've got a few Subaru nut friends and they all can't believe how good it is.

check and clean the harness grounds,   and if you un clipped and re attached all the clips behind the fuse panel im sure most of the electronics would start working again as intended, as mine did during my ecu install... half my accessories didn't work prior to me reseating all the clips, now they all work

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Posted (edited)
46 minutes ago, turbodog said:

check and clean the harness grounds,   and if you un clipped and re attached all the clips behind the fuse panel im sure most of the electronics would start working again as intended, as mine did during my ecu install... half my accessories didn't work prior to me reseating all the clips, now they all work

Yes, forgot to mention that but I do intend to clean the grounds. Made a big difference on my old Forester.

I was informed by the PO that he ran green coolant in the radiator and red in the WAIC to ID which was leaking, if that were to occur.

Edited by KiwiGL

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On 3/17/2021 at 4:51 AM, KiwiGL said:

I was informed by the PO that he ran green coolant in the radiator and red in the WAIC to ID which was leaking, if that were to occur.

That’s good thinking! I would’ve run the same coolant for simplicity of only using one product... 

Cheers 

Bennie

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Well, took her out for a couple of drives with the temp sensor installed.  Works a treat, now have an accurate digital readout of the top rad hose temp. However, last time I took her out, it sat at 40 (minimum readout) for ages, and then spiked to 90 very suddenly. It then proceeded to sit in the mid 90s for the rest of the drive, spiking to 107 (!!!!!!!) at one point for a couple of seconds at rest, before cooling off. Switching on the e fan manually (which is definitely working) helped a bit. 

Diagnosis IMO is bad thermostat. I was intending on replacing it anyway. Have ordered a 160 C thermostat, gaskets etc.

I have also done the twin e fan mod (

) on Gertie (my wagon) and I will be replacing the temp switch with the Hyundai part when I do the thermostat on the sedan. 

I have also ordered a new radiator as I suspect the current one is a bit blocked from when I did the system flush. $200, cheap insurance.

I think the thermo fan hub is ok, as it spins when cold and locks up when the engine is hot. If replacing the thermostat, radiator, and fan switch doesn't help temps then I may have blown the HG when it spiked... Really hoping not.

I've also ordered a new temp sender so will see if that helps the factory gauge read properly.

Should I replace the water pump? Seems to pump ok at the moment, but while I'm in there... 

May as well rip it out and fit an EJ257!

;)

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Posted (edited)
On 3/28/2021 at 9:41 PM, KiwiGL said:

Have ordered a 160 C thermostat

get an oem subaru one from an ej.  it fits if you slightly shave off the outside of it.  best mod. aftermarket ones are poopoo.

 

recently i tested what looked to be the best aftermarket one id ever seen... till i tested it agenst a stock one....   oem one opened faster at the right temp, and stayed open compared to the aftermarket that only opened a few mm and then promptly shut when i removed it from the burner...  the oem one stayed open till it hit its rated temp,  then went to about 50% open till about 10 degrees below the rated temp and then closed... 

 

 

Edited by turbodog
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Posted (edited)

New radiator, dual e fans, thermostat replaced, and a bad idler bearing replaced. Just waiting on a coolant hose and extra temp sensor. I have also spotted what looks like a coolant leak from the coolant return pipe where it bolts onto the turbo. Anyone have a lead for the copper crush washers for this? I suspect this may be the source of my slow coolant leak.

Old thermostat was super crusty and definitely in need of replacing. Old hoses also pretty crusty internally, I would hate to think what the old radiator looked like inside...

Then I need to do the diff seals and replace all the front CV boots, and she's done! Will also bleed brakes and do trans fluid, looked a little dirty when I pulled the cooling hose off the radiator. Power steering fluid was pristine... Until I stupidly pulled off the reservoir without draining it... 

Edited by KiwiGL

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2 hours ago, KiwiGL said:

New radiator, dual e fans, thermostat replaced, and a bad idler bearing replaced. Just waiting on a coolant hose and extra temp sensor. I have also spotted what looks like a coolant leak from the coolant return pipe where it bolts onto the turbo. Anyone have a lead for the copper crush washers for this? I suspect this may be the source of my slow coolant leak.

Old thermostat was super crusty and definitely in need of replacing. Old hoses also pretty crusty internally, I would hate to think what the old radiator looked like inside...

Then I need to do the diff seals and replace all the front CV boots, and she's done! Will also bleed brakes and do trans fluid, looked a little dirty when I pulled the cooling hose off the radiator. Power steering fluid was pristine... Until I stupidly pulled off the reservoir without draining it... 

Not the best fix but you can refurb crush washers. Anneal them by heating cherry red and dropping in a bucket of water. Then use sandpaper on a flat surface like plate glass, and flatten both sides.

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7 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said:

Not the best fix but you can refurb crush washers. Anneal them by heating cherry red and dropping in a bucket of water. Then use sandpaper on a flat surface like plate glass, and flatten both sides.

Works like a charm and is 100% acceptable from a field service standpoint.  Use MAP gas, not propane.  Heat to red hot, then drop in water and flatten on sandpaper as stated above.

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So, have never had to deal with Copper Crush Washers on Turbos... knock on wood...

However when annealing crush washers for hydraulic systems and fuel systems for these cars and others;

I've never sanded down the crush washers after annealing...

Just hit them with the map gas torch on a sacrificial piece of wood until cherry red... momentarily watch the washer bathe in the dancing flames of the wood... and then let the thing cool down on its own... Never Quenched...

Now, Turbos may be different, but I've not had a problem with fuel or hydraulic leaks with my no-sand no-quench method.

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The water dunk helps blow off some of the carbon and oxidization that inevitably occurs during the heating process, but the main purpose of quenching copper is to quickly cool it, as copper doesn't harden when quenched (unlike some other materials).  It's not required, but it results in a better finished product, and less chance of a burn.

Same goes for the sanding, it just knocks down the high spots from the previous installation, giving you a better surface to seal with.  If the washer has ridges that catch your fingernail, that is a good candidate for a quick post-anneal sanding.

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Still working on the wagon... However my new parts arrived, so have got it basically back together. Just need to fill with fluids and give it a shakedown run. Although, the right side intake manifold gaskets appear to have a bit of a leak... That may be where my coolant is going (as opposed to the turbo) so seeing as I've got the radiator drained I might just whip off the intake, cut some new gaskets and put it back together with some quality anaerobic sealant.

Does anyone know how to get the plugs off the injectors without destroying them? I don't like the look of those bits of wire on the plugs...

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There are little clips that need to be removed to get the plug off the injector.  Use a small pick (And a magnet!) to remove the safety clip.

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Use genuine intake manifold gaskets! Don’t skimp, not worth it. 

Also replace all coolant hoses while you’ve got full access to the intake manifold. You’ll thank yourself later for this work. 

And there’s that pesky little hose under the intake manifold to deal with too. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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