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'96 Legacy clutch replacement any good videos?


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3 hours ago, nelstomlinson said:

This weekend we are going to have to replace the clutch on one of the '96s.  I do have a gantry crane, don't have a lift so I figure we'll have to pull the engine.  Can anyone recommend any good videos of the process?

video any EJ engine pull, use any 1996-1999 FSM for clutch install (they're free all over the internet). 

If it's an EJ25 (GT, LSi, outback) - then it's a hydraulic clutch.  Ej22 is cable.  it won't matter for the current clutch install, that's all the same, but good to know once you start flipping through pages and watching videos. 

If it is an EJ25 with hydraulic clutch i'd throw that garbage away and convert to cable while it's apart. lol

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every subaru from 1980's to 2010's is like the same regarding engine pull - remove mounts/exhaust/hoses/wiring/a/c/starter, flexplate bolts/radiator fans....tilt the same angle/prop trans up.  just a few very minor changes in engine mount locations...etc - otherwise they're all basically identical. 

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You may want to have the sleeve kit for a worn trans nose shaft that the throw out bearing rides on.  

Have the flywheel surfaced.  Most places will do this the same day on work days.

If you have the engine out, it's a great time to take care of other necessary maintenance

- Reseal the rear breather plate on the back of the engine.  

- Timing belt, seals and pulleys

- Valve cover seals

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8 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

check separator plate on rear of engine for leakage - metal plate likely OK. IF it's plastic, replace with metal. (I think 96 would be metal - guys???)

 

13 hours ago, lmdew said:

 

Have the flywheel surfaced. 

- Reseal the rear breather plate on the back of the engine.  

Good calls - engine or trans pull required for those so they’re essential in addition to pilot and throw out bearing. 

to the OP the rear breather plate is the same as the aforementioned separator plate.  Subaru sells them and the screws for them all the time, they’ll know exactly what you need.  

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This was a rush job, needed to get it back on the road, and really needed to free up the shop space, so we didn't get the flywheel surfaced or transmission shaft nose checked. 

The nearest machine shop is over 100 miles away, and they're good, so they're busy.  Oh, well, it'll probably last a while, and if we have to do it again it'll go a lot quicker. 

Found that the friction disk had broken, the center had come lose from the outer ring.  I'd never seen that failure mode before.

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For clutch work etc I pull the gearbox. I use a motorcycle jack to help out. Works a treat. A hoist or pit would make it a bit easier in the crawling around under the car department. 

As for broken clutch disc, this was my efforts - clutch stopped working so drove about 300km through our Aussie Alps from Mt Hotham down to the coast at Lakes Entrance then about halfway back to Hotham before the drive to the gearbox stopped and there were “some unfavourable noises” before we rolled to a complete stop with no mobile reception: 

p8060537.jpg 

^ new clutch disc on the left. 19 bits (and at least one missing) of the old unit on the right... 

The replacement clutch including pressure plate is still going well. That was ten years ago and the vehicle was daily driven until about three years ago, last 18 months it hasn’t been driven at all :(  This is in my EJ converted L series ;) 

Cheers 

Bennie

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On 3/23/2021 at 4:46 PM, lmdew said:

Downshifted at speed!

That's my son's car, and he had been downshifting to slow down, to save his brake linings.  Now he knows that brakes are a lot easier than clutches.

It broke in a parking lot as he was creeping along, but he had made a habit of stressing it by downshifting.

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