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HELP - DOHC Crank and Cam Seal change and now will not start!


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All back together.  (Did I tell you I hate DOHC engines).  I turned it over by hand 2 times.  All the timing belt marks line up perfect.

Turns over fine, but not starting.  All the sensors are hooked up.  Is it possible to have the cams out of position when installing the timing belt, but all the timing belt marks correct?

The crank gear timing mark is correct the dash on the rear tooth.

Thanks, Larry

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IIRC there are marks on the cams that must face each other as well as the cam belt timing marks. Also the drivers intake cam is the one with the cam sensor on it. So timing between that and the crank controls spark to the correct cylinder.

Recheck .... I did prefer DOHC to SOHC .... for me they seemed easier. SOHC, the drivers intake would always JUMP since it was loaded from intake springs.

98 Legacy Outback (DOHC EJ 25) timing belt doesn't have marks - Motor  Vehicle Maintenance & Repair Stack Exchange

Edited by Ferret54
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It's the old style crank gear with only a few teeth.  I've done many 2.2 so I know it's lined up correctly.

Rechecked the Drivers/Left cams to make sure they were both under load when rotating clockwise (looking aft from the front of the engine).  Marks lined up.  Got it to fire with full throttle but it's not right.

I did wash down the engine bay at the carwash to get clean off the oil mess.  It ran fine back from the wash 5 miles or so.  I' don't think its water in the connectors...  

I broke rule #1 and started another job at the same time.  I replace a broken windshield wiper switch.  Should not be a factor either.  I did drop the lower dash panel and lower steering column cover.  Shouldn't be an issue in this either.

Any easy way to verify the crank and cam timing is 100% correct?  I pulled #1 plug and stuck a hose down the hole to feel for compression, but with the lack of access and the timing belt still on opening the valves I'm not sure this a good check.  

No CEL codes and it ran fine before this, other than pissing oil out the crank seal.

Thanks for the cam pics, I'll triple check on Monday.

 

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I'm going to repeat advice offered previously (a couple of times).  The first time I did DOHC heads and was reinstalling an old belt with worn-off markings, I was being a girl and counted teeth just to make damn sure I got it right.  Couldn't get the count right.  Eventually discovered an error in the diagrams that show the (inter-sprocket) tooth counts that originated in the FSM and was dutifully reprinted by Haynes.  However, we're talking about a one-tooth error, so it's not likely to keep you from starting.

Ferret54's diagrams are good enough, make sure you got the sensored sprocket on the port (driver's) side intake, and throw a vacuum gauge on just because.

 

Edited by jonathan909
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Glad you resoled this..... too many times trying to help neighbors, I got into crap I didn't expect ..... like headgasket replacement on 98 Forester ( DOHC ) then weeks later came back with multiple misfires .. Thought Timing belt jumped .... What did I miss ....

I miss TIGHTENING the 10mm bolt that holds that cam sensor in place. I apparently just finger tightened and FORGOT to tighten with a rachet.

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On 3/23/2021 at 8:04 AM, Ferret54 said:

Glad you resoled this..... too many times trying to help neighbors, I got into crap I didn't expect ..... like headgasket replacement on 98 Forester ( DOHC ) then weeks later came back with multiple misfires .. Thought Timing belt jumped .... What did I miss ....

I miss TIGHTENING the 10mm bolt that holds that cam sensor in place. I apparently just finger tightened and FORGOT to tighten with a rachet.

Yeah, loose bolts... The first time I changed the short block in my '99 DOHC OBW (first Sube) I failed to tighten the ground strap on top of the manifold, just to the left of the coil pack.  Engine ran just fine.  Transmission went wonky.  The time I wasted chasing that one down...

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