6 Star Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 (edited) Tell us what you've been up to, with your old-skool Subies. Here we go: Loyale's: Changed out the A/C and Alternator Belts on the Sedan. Whoever maintained it before had SOA Subaru Belts on there... Part numbers: SOA543100 SOA543102 One, but not the other, are still available from Subaru. A literal chunk was missing from one of the belts, so when turning and putting load on the P/S Pump, it would catch that spot of the belt and then slide producing an interesting squealing sound. Picked up Gates PoweRated (green) belts. Part numbers: 6839 (.5" x 39") 6845 (.5" x 45") Working well, however noticed a lot of green dust around the area of the belts now... probably need to retention the belts now that they have less memory of being in the package. Since I had some EA82 Wagon factory rear coilovers, I wanted to see how much of a lift would be gained over the factory Sedan rear coilovers. Laying on the ground next to each other is a visible difference, the Wagon Coilover setup being Longer over all. (Wagon Set is from older GL model that still had adjustable height. Currently on the lowest setting from factory.) On the car is a noticeable difference as well. The rear was "jacked up" like a hot-rod... drove it like this for a while but then decided to put the sedan coilovers back on to keep the rake even and stress out the rear CV's less. Stock Sedan Coilovers: Wagon Coilovers Both photos were taken after driving and settling in the suspension. Swapped out the brake pads and shoes on all corners. The rear shoes were still the factory ones with the Fuji logo and painted in the same color as the body. (Onyx Metalic) This is somewhat common on these older Subie's with under 200k or so. Depends on how the car was treated. My dad rebuilt the P/S pump on his Loyale wagon, as it was puking all over. Kit part number from Subaru: 31263GA470 $37.28 before tax. Had everything except for one of the o-rings on one of the inlets or outlets, but was able to make do. Replaced a couple Water Pumps on the Loyale's as they were getting noisy and weepy. Can still get these through Napa and the similar parts stores. Funny the box the pump comes in from Napa has a GR third-gen Impreza on it for decoration. 2nd Gen's: The tailpipe on the hatch finally needed attention. Right where the muffler pipe was welded to the axle-back section, it had just rusted away to where there were threads of metal just on one side holding the (now almost two) sections apart. This allowed the muffler to swing around under cornering and bumps. Wiggled it off the rest of the way by hand and then did the right thing and just added a length of straight-pipe... exhaust is carried out past the body and now there's more Subie rumble. Cost? $Priceless. Also on the hatch: Was driving, then stopped at my destination, and then noticed steam venting from under the hood. "Great..." Popped the hood, sure enough, it was the soft coolant bypass hose that goes from the intake manifold to the top of the block. A tear had opened up just above where it was clamped to the nip on the block, sending a stream of coolant forward onto the radiator, hood, and in a puddle around it's area of the block. (Did a nice job cleaning the oil in that spot) More of an annoying leak if anything... so filled the radiator back up with water and then limped it back home several miles on the freeway and backroads, keeping the revs low as possible. That little hose, and it is small, like vacuum line size almost, was $20 some dollars through Napa, plus it would be a week-out shipping from East-Coast! So I said yeah no, I don't need their pricy custom fit line, when I can make my own. Removed the distributor, as it was in the way. Plucked out the old hose, measured it, and then installed a length of hose I had laying around that used to be fuel-line. Put the disty back in and hey, just saved $20 and a week's worth of waiting. So what have you guys done recently to your Subies? Searched until my eyes were sore, but couldn't find the OG thread started way back when... Edited April 30, 2021 by 6 Star Added photos and info 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru1988 Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, 6 Star said: My dad rebuilt the P/S pump on his Loyale wagon, as it was puking all over. Kit part number from Subaru: 31263GA470 $37.28 before tax. Had everything except for one of the o-rings on one of the inlets or outlets, but was able to make do. Interesting...I didn't know that was out there; thanks for posting part numbers. That's not a bad price, either. Looks like you've done lots of work on lots of cars. That's the only rub on running the old stuff, but being able to actually DO something with it other than paying somebody else to work on it counteracts that. Edited April 7, 2021 by subaru1988 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted April 8, 2021 Author Share Posted April 8, 2021 Factory Fuel Door on the 2nd gen Brat was in need of "tuning". Oiled the hinge, as it was binding and wanting to bend the door itself. Once the door was open, oiled the spring etc that controls the turn-knob-handle. Noticed that the catch on the knob wouldn't seat behind the catch of the "jam". The catch by the Spring was bent, so used a combo of pliers to hold the unit still and smaller pliers to grip and bend the catch back out. Someone had been trying to jam the door closed without turning the handle... Now the Factory Brat Fuel door is working as it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted April 11, 2021 Author Share Posted April 11, 2021 On 4/7/2021 at 10:29 AM, subaru1988 said: Interesting...I didn't know that was out there; thanks for posting part numbers. That's not a bad price, either. Looks like you've done lots of work on lots of cars. That's the only rub on running the old stuff, but being able to actually DO something with it other than paying somebody else to work on it counteracts that. Glad to post this sort of info if it can help people keep these classic Subaru's on the road. They are like energizer bunnies as long as they are maintained. My dad got me started on cars at a young age. We both figured out that we just couldn't trust other people (shops) working on our cars. You go in for one thing and then they either fix it and sabotage something else so you return quickly or they don't fix it right. Or they take your vehicle on a joyride and beat on it... crashing it in one of my friend's experiences. Needless to say now anything that needs fixing gets fixed by myself or my family. If we don't already know how we learn. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exercion Posted April 14, 2021 Share Posted April 14, 2021 Replaced both alternator and AC belts. Rewired starter system to include a start relay. Replaced starter positive lead, and both heater hoses while I was at it. Switched to LED headlight bulbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted April 18, 2021 Author Share Posted April 18, 2021 On 4/14/2021 at 11:21 AM, exercion said: Switched to LED headlight bulbs. I kindly ask that you make sure the headlights are positioned correctly after this mod... Its bad enough that modern cars are legally running around now with LED, Halogen, BeDazzling Blinding Bling lights. Its great, you can see where you are going... just don't blind me in the process... P.S. Added photos to my first post 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 I agree with 6 Star on this. Honestly, get some driving lamps and use those for night driving in the country. There are ZERO LED or HID "plug-and-play" bulbs that are designed to work with any OEM halogen lamp housing. They either scatter light so badly they blind other motorists, or they're aimed so low on the road as to be useless at night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 19 minutes ago, carfreak85 said: I agree with 6 Star on this. Honestly, get some driving lamps and use those for night driving in the country. There are ZERO LED or HID "plug-and-play" bulbs that are designed to work with any OEM halogen lamp housing. They either scatter light so badly they blind other motorists, or they're aimed so low on the road as to be useless at night. Plus blue lights for driving are quite frankly, spoob. I hate them. They’re distracting, glarey and blinding. They should never have been allowed on the road. My 5c Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 Yeah I did the same HID mod that i saw on here. Split the housings, sanded off the steps on the inside. Polished both sides of the lense. Mounted the projector inside the housing with a running light and sealed it back up. Any type of HID or LED will do poorly in the stock hosing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 On 4/19/2021 at 3:12 PM, el_freddo said: ...blue lights for driving... End up actually reducing the output of said bulb, since only blue spectrum can escape the blue tinted glass globe. Some bulbs, like the Sylvania SilverStar Ultras use a thin strip of blue tint specifically placed so that it reduces bulb output and glare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomhyyt Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 I did a thing with my 3D printer. have had these wheels for years without the center caps and decided that it's time to do them now: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted April 23, 2021 Author Share Posted April 23, 2021 8 hours ago, tomhyyt said: have had these wheels for years Sweet wheels, JDM? Do they have name/brand or are Subaru? And the caps look nice on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomhyyt Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 5 hours ago, 6 Star said: Sweet wheels, JDM? Do they have name/brand or are Subaru? And the caps look nice on there. I believe these are European made aftermarket wheels. 13" RW spyder markings as can be seen on the rim. I've seen couple of these sets available here in Europe 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted April 24, 2021 Author Share Posted April 24, 2021 (edited) Put the little 2nd gen hatch to work the past couple days. Fitted the heavy duty rack to the roof, and hauled two sets of roll-up doors for a project my dad and us are working on. Sure, it could all fit in the van... but the little subie gets more than twice the mileage. P.S. Removed the rack once the moving was over... Shes a real whistler and howler at the right speeds. Edited April 29, 2021 by 6 Star Added Photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted April 29, 2021 Author Share Posted April 29, 2021 (edited) Been hard to start the '82 Brat recently. Usually takes a couple pumps of the pedal before it will cough to life. Strange, 9 times out of 10... when turning the engine over for several seconds with the ignition, it will fire AFTER releasing the ignition to the Run position. Only sometimes will it fire before letting go of the "start" position.. Cleaned the plugs, as they appeared to be fouled. Managed to start the Brat with only 3 spark plug wires connected. (D'oh) forgot to reconnect one. However cleaning the plugs did not solve the hard starting issue. Anyway, have been putting her to work hauling fire wood. The engineers made the size of the bed just right for the performance of the EA81... Loaded to the rails, conservatively, with wet firewood; the clutch is able to handle the load without strain or spinning, and the little EA81 torques right along. P.S. Added photos to my previous post. Edited April 30, 2021 by 6 Star Better description of Brat symptoms 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 @6 Star - you need a new ignition switch. You’ll find it’s not providing power to ignition when in the cranking position. Got a targa tip brat there too? Noice! They’re very sought after down here now. For me, just driving mine. 450km round trip last Saturday from central Vic into Melbs, our the other side then back again. Today headed down south for the Trentham spud fest, across to my old’s about 40km away then back home again. After that it’s back to the weekly duties to and from work. I need to regrease my front CVs. Not looking forward to that. Cheers Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 9 hours ago, el_freddo said: @6 Star - you need a new ignition switch. You’ll find it’s not providing power to ignition when in the cranking position. Got a targa tip brat there too? Noice! They’re very sought after down here now. For me, just driving mine. 450km round trip last Saturday from central Vic into Melbs, our the other side then back again. Today headed down south for the Trentham spud fest, across to my old’s about 40km away then back home again. After that it’s back to the weekly duties to and from work. I need to regrease my front CVs. Not looking forward to that. Cheers Bennie That would explain a lot... Thanks for the tip Bennie. Will have to dig through the parts bin... Yup, she's no beauty queen, but she loves to do work and outdoor activities. Washing the '82 Brat is something I have NOT done to it recently, or EVER for that matter. Found her in the woods down by Tacoma, she had been sitting a good 8 years or more. All that was needed was a carburetor, as it was missing. After getting her home, installed a Weber 32/36, and flushed the fuel tank, she started right up. Couldn't bring myself to remove the patina... And the 3rd eye still works... She came with a 3" Lift Kit installed. The Trans Spacers are only 2", so the trans sits up slightly higher. No markings on any of the lift components... but the huge sticker on the back window is for Tough Country... possibly a custom order through them at the time of the build, whenever that was... 14" Pug Steels with Cooper Discoverer STT's And, she has the "Super Coil" that has the bonus techno box on top that somehow reads the position of the distributor and (recurves?) for the situation at hand. She just keeps on going... have lost track of all the things hauled and jobs done over the 5 years I've owned her. Regreasing CV's... something I should probably do to a few of the Subes... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted July 30, 2021 Author Share Posted July 30, 2021 (edited) Long overdue post, as this happened in May. My brother and I took the '82 Rat Brat to the Federal Way, WA Harbor Freight (Cheap Tool Store here in the USA). We didn't go inside... other plans were in the works... besides, its a disaster inside that store branch normally. Couldn't help but take pictures in the parking lot while we were waiting... This is what we were waiting for... It is for another project in the works, however the Patina matches the Rat Brat perfectly... It was Meant to Be. On the way back to Base, made a Detour and stopped by this Landmark. Was fitting, as this Brat is also known as the Military (Navy) Brat. (She came to us with the Door Stickers) Edited July 30, 2021 by 6 Star 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 I got cracking into this good and proper recently. Still have several things to line up before it ends up on Ruby Scoo: Should be good once it’s done Cheers Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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