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91 Subaru Loyale Starting Issues


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Hey everyone, 

I'm having this weird problem with my Loyale where the ignition won't work and the car thinks it's not on.

 

Frequently when I put the key in and turn it to ON, no lights will come on - essentially the vehicle is still off. The hazards and door chime still work so the battery is not the issue (3 month old battery). It has only happened a few times that the car will actually turn off while driving, usually it happens when attempting to start the vehicle. I noticed it happens mostly when the steering column panel is on; once I remove it and jiggle the wires or give them room the car usually starts.

The other weird thing is that when it is the ON position and I turn it to START, it doesn't turn on the starter motor. I have to jiggle it in the START position to get it going. This made me think it was the starter so I replaced the starter motor but it didn't fix the issue.

One wire coming from the ignition switch was getting very hot to the point where it was melting the plastic terminal connector thing under the steering column. Beside the coolant reservoir in the fuse wire box with 4 wires, a green wire in there is also being over heated. I got a mechanics opinion and he thinks there was too much power going through the ignition switch wire, and that the previous owner or mechanic put in a higher rated fuse wire to keep it from shorting. (Sorry I have no mechanical background so I'm not sure what to call these parts. I also don't remember exactly what the mechanic said it was a while ago)

So, I ordered a new ignition switch and put it in this morning. Everything seemed great so I tidied up the cables and put the panels back on. After breakfast I went to turn it on and nothing! So I pulled off the panel and put in the key and it worked again. I'm still having the issue of needing to convince the START position to work. 

The only component left would be the lock cylinder I think? I'm stumped, any advice or ideas would be appreciated. 

 

 

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From your description it sounds like the problem is in the wiring.  I can only suggest following the wires from the ignition to the fuse panel and check for any frayed/worn areas.  Make sure no wire is contacting sharp metal edges etc.

If the fuse is the wrong size then that should be corrected also.

As a fall back, you could put in a starter button.  Many have done that when they had faulty ignitions.

Edited by Dee2
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So the 4 wires in that box are fusible links. One is the main battery feed, one is the alternator, one is the accessory power, and one is the key on power. You can get modern fuses to replace them, as they are prone to failing at this age. The fuses fit perfectly in the stock case. The are FMX style, and I did the conversion for the correct size. They should match the stock link colors, but mine had no wire insulation left when I got it.

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I would pull all the fuses and links, and then see if there is still current flowing through the switch. Then add them one by one until it goes away.

 

Also you can pull the switch off of the key cylinder and clean the contacts. They are famous for going bad, especially the starter ones. I added a relay inline with my key switch. So no power flows through the key switch itself.

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I forgot about adding a starter/ignition relay as mentioned by Ionstorm66.  I had starting problems on my car some years ago and added a relay which fixed my problem.  The kit I used was a Bosch WR1 Starter Relay, It came with directions and wiring schematic. 

Also, If your starter is sluggish, sometimes it is necessary to replace the solenoid contacts.  Very easy to do,  Videos are available on youtube.

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On 9/17/2021 at 12:06 PM, SubaruJon said:

Thanks for the advice Dee2 and Lonstorm66. 
When you say clean the key cylinder switch contact, are you talking about the wire that is directly on top of the cylinder where the key goes in? 

 

You can unscrew the switch from the back of the key cylinder, and clean the contacts in there. The starter has its own solenoid, but that still draws 20A peak. This can causes the contacts in the key switch to wear out.

 

Adding a relay removes the high current from the NLA hard to replace key switch, to a cheap relay you can get at any parts store.

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