mickytrus Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 Hello, 98 sub outback legacy wagon 5sp. I have to do a clutch and rear seal (what other possible causes(locations) could create oil on clutch??). Great vehicle... about 228k on her.... I did a timing belt about 60k ago..... and well, I knew this when I bought it...... the motor was changed to a 2.2L(good motors) first question..... not exactly sure what year my 2.2L motor is....... from the looks of the the Contitech Pro series plus part#(PP172LK2) (the kit I put on 60k ago) I am thinking 97-98 2.2L motor Considering a Sachs clutch kit: 2.2L SACHS KF73801 oversized bearing and retainer sleeve SACHS KF73803 2.5L SACHS KF73802 oversized bearing and retainer sleeve SACHS KF73804 Does the 2.2L and the 2.5L(original motor) Use same clutch and accessories...... ?? The numbers are different.... more springs on 2.2L ......size is the same........ number of teeth are the same Thoughts on differences?? So Looking at clutch kits..... Any recommendations? brands etc. etc. other than the Sachs And being that the motor is out...... I should do the timing belt.... ????????? BUT these kits are crazy in price now........... I know there is 60k on the belt..... Suggestions?? Continue to use the hardware??? replace just belt... with a new contitech belt????? thanks, Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 Rear Seals are usually NOT the leak source. The seperator plate on the back of the engine needs to be resealed. If it's the plastic one, Subaru has a replacement metal plate. Early ones were aluminum. Don't touch the rear seal unless it damaged or you can confirm it's the source of the leak. Most folks have more issues after replacing the rear seal. Having the sleave kit is nice. No way to tell if you need it until the engine/trans is pulled. The belt should be fine, another 20K to 60K left on it. Did you change all of the idler pulleys on the T Belt? if not, I'd to them now while the engine is out. Valve cover gaskets. Oil Pump reseal and rear cover plate screws torqued properly. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 Yep. Likely the rear separator plate. It's updated to a stamped steel plate which requires different bolts. Dorman makes a kit, or get them from your local dealer. Clutch application didn't really change. Likely the only difference is clamping force/torque holding. 2.5 would be a hydraulic-operated, where 2.2 would be cable. But they should both be push style... Exedy makes the best stock-replacement clutches, IMHO. Although, I've been pretty happy with my $40 ebay clutch kit I put in my '00 Outback about 40k miles ago... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 3rd vote for separator plate... very very rare for it to be rear seal itself - almost always that plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 on some of the older engines, the screws holding the oil pump in place can loosen up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 7 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said: on some of the older engines, the screws holding the oil pump in place can loosen up. umm.. oil pump is on the front of the engine.. not the rear... valid point, but not related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 It could also be a gearbox input shaft seal that’s leaking. Not common over here but I’ve heard of it happening on the single range gearboxes via this forum. I replace the rear main seal when I have the engine out - genuine only. Lube it up with a rubber grease (moving parts only) and it’ll be just like the old one. Oil separator plate will surely be the plastic unit, that era of subaru seemed to be the guinea pig for this change. EJ clutches are basically all the same except the pull style clutch found on turbo models - they’re very different in operation and will not work in a push style clutch (push is what you’ll have). Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 On 10/27/2021 at 6:05 AM, heartless said: umm.. oil pump is on the front of the engine.. not the rear... valid point, but not related. just mentioned as he said motor would be out and he's doing the timing belt system. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted November 2, 2021 Author Share Posted November 2, 2021 Yeah, T belt was a complete kit.... Pro Series Plus........ Conti I will yank the motor... and then Determine..... I guess... I will have the C l cht kit on hand..... I should just figure on replacing this plate.... Does / can anyone send me a Part number on the replacement separator plate..... (a metal one) Yeah, I guess if I can get another 20K out of the belt.... and its accessories... why change it now..... Focus my NRG on the the clutch... and get the vehicle ready for the cold weather... HOw about a link to a pic of the Separator plate on the the back or the engine... Any such thing out there? Thanks! Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 (edited) Lots of pictures, including pictures of part numbers: https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+separator+plate&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AOaemvJFQdRQ0RoofFl7zQfd8aYaO1QDOQ%3A1635518965614&source=hp&biw=1680&bih=907&ei=9Ql8YaqKI9XT-gSDwpn4DQ&iflsig=ALs-wAMAAAAAYXwYBccUVcVbX8epDbOq4csNmQOr9lgV&oq=13265AA470&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1D2Alj2AmD7BGgAcAB4AIABQYgBQZIBATGYAQCgAQKgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZw&sclient=img&ved=0ahUKEwjq2N337u_zAhXVqZ4KHQNhBt8Q4dUDCAY&uact=5 Add "Dorman" to the search for that part number. Edited November 2, 2021 by Numbchux 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted November 4, 2021 Author Share Posted November 4, 2021 (edited) Thanks! Just finishing up a clutch job on a Jetta......... Can't wait to start....... Might as well get the sep plate now..... OK, So I took a look at separator plates.... Again, thanks for the link. Do they generally come with a gasket these separator plates? Or (no) they RTV'd on. Micky Edited November 4, 2021 by mickytrus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted November 4, 2021 Share Posted November 4, 2021 ultra grey for sealing dont go crazy with it.. dont need it squishing back inside. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted November 4, 2021 Share Posted November 4, 2021 No gasket. FIPG. Subaru only sells it in caulking tubes, which is way too big. I do like Hondabond or Toyota Black, which both are available in smaller tubes. Otherwise, the "Right Stuff" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted November 4, 2021 Author Share Posted November 4, 2021 GTK. Thanks! Yeah, Chaulking tubes...... enough for a lifetime... Though I gotta say.... I had to do a bunch of windshields in the years of my "passed on" Loyales... I got to using Window Eurathanes... which were in a chaulk.... tube... You would be surprised what and how many different uses I found for that stuff.... Just an incredible flexible all weather adhesive..... "From patching rust holes... to repairing shoe soles...." Anyway, back onto the car.... SO it is a 1998 outback legacy..... which had a 2.5L in it..... From Manufacturer I have it with a 2.2L... Was purchased by me that way..(third owner)... second owner purchased at 70K with 2.2L I did a timing belt in it(176K) Contitech part number was PP172Lk2---yr:2016---> new number(as of today) of kit is GTKWP172A(now CA emissions) I had a little of a "heck of a time" determining proper kit in yr:2016..... Had to compare with old parts and choose from a couple of kits... SO this determined the motor as being....... Impreza 2.2L 1997 sub model Brighton.... Do you guys need to know all this...... ??? I guess more info the better.... So Question section:: what about the clutch kits in these two different motors?..... 2.2L and 2.5L ( I can compare I guess over at the ROck- A) But, would rather hear it from the forum... What about the Fly wheels???? Could I possibly have a Flywheel that is from the original 2.5L on the 2.2L motor...... You can see where I am going with this........ So I am looking for answers to what the possibilities are up ahead...... and flexibilities..... IE: maybe cluctch from 2.5L is better to go with.. ETc. Etc. If I have to rip it apart first before I order stuff.... well, ok....... just slows down the process...... better to know.... than guess.(I guess) Thanks the input Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Best to pull it and see what's there. Subaru's are like legos plug and play. There are some differences! Fly wheel dia for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 (edited) Flywheel diametre different between EJ models? First I’ve heard about this! Different weights, but you probably wouldn’t notice this too much as the driver. EJ22 with bolt up to and run the EJ25 gear no worries. Likewise an EJ22 flywheel and clutch will work fine with that gearbox. You just need to ensure you have the NON turbo (push) style clutch kit and it’ll work no worries. For example, I have a Gen1 EJ22e with its matching flywheel and clutch working just fine with the phase 2 eight bolt gearbox in my L series. It’s seriously Lego! Cheers Bennie Edited January 20, 2022 by el_freddo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 I think I needed more coffee. Auto TC flex plates dia. It's been too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 16 hours ago, lmdew said: I think I needed more coffee. Auto TC flex plates dia. It's been too long. Ah yeah that makes sense. I thought the autos were all the same and the manual flywheels are all the same - but different between auto and manuals. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 Install a Subaru timing belt and lower cogged idler. Aftermarket fail more often before 100k. A 97 or 98 are both interference engines and will bend valves. all 90-98 2.2 timing belts and pulley are the same. The only difference is the tensioner which can be interchanged (both tensioners can be used on both engines) anyway by simply swapping the tensioner bracket. One piece tensioner 97+ old style two piece 90-96. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted January 20, 2022 Author Share Posted January 20, 2022 Hey!, So I am pulling the motor(I believe I have the parts) but, we wilhave to see what is there. Anyway, I was asked(by auto parts sales dude) about production years for the 2.2L(1997) motor that is in the car now rather than the 2.5L motor that came with the car (98 legacy outback) (CUZ I wanted valve cover gaskets for the 2.2L) He was saying that there are three different valve cover gasket configurations. ( I will just bring the old gaskets down he has all of them in stock..) BUT, I was wondering if anybody might know what is behind what he(auto parts sales dude) is talking about. [ three different possible valve cove gasket configurations] for a 2.2L - 1997 ??? Thanks, Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 (edited) Ask for one for a 1992 legacy or 1994 impreza - those shouldn't have any additional gaskets to confuse someone reading a computer screen. And all 1990-1998 legacy/impreza 2.2 and 1.8 valve cover gaskets are the same. The guy doesn't know anything about Subarus and is just clicking a screen and reading it to you. There's only one gasket it can be, this one, which as you can see is listed for all 1990-1998 ej22 and ej18: https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-valve-cover-gasket-13294aa012 Edited January 20, 2022 by idosubaru 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted January 20, 2022 Author Share Posted January 20, 2022 Ido Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 17 hours ago, mickytrus said: Ido Thanks! Right on beast, good luck and hope you have a garage to do this in, it was 4 degrees at my house! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 Yeah, You know....it..!!.. and those tools get mighty cold while in your hands, While the Frost(force) comes out of the ground to emanate through your spine via the tail bone.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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