ToddT Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 (edited) Hey, thanks for having me, I'm having fun and learning lots. My buddy's drive belts on his 93 Loyale came apart, taking some wiring apart with it. Down by the oil filter I got two sensors, one with a little pig tail and one with nothing. Above is a single black wire flung over the intake with no connector. I need more experience than a wiring diagram. A picture of how it's supposed to be hooked up would be super helpful. Thanks Edited December 29, 2021 by ToddT Request photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 The big sensor with a short wire [should have a flat quick connect on it] should be the oil pressure sender, if it has an oil gauge. The black single wire is probably the one that goes to the sensor. It should have the female mate, with insulation over it. If the dash does NOT have an oil gauge, the same wire is used for the dash oil light, and it would be connected to a "regular" sized oil pressure switch type sender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddT Posted December 30, 2021 Author Share Posted December 30, 2021 I got this diagram, from a awesome subaru forum, to make sure we're on the same page. Sounds like the stub wire, from the oil pressure gauge (#22), goes to oil pressure switch (#20) and the single black ( w/ yellow stripe?) wire from above, also goes to the oil pressure switch (#20). Thanks for the help on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 No, it is one or the other.. I have had several of these cars, not one had both. The diagrams are made to show both options. Both versions use the same wire, but the sensor and the indicator on the dash are different, and not compatible to mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddT Posted December 30, 2021 Author Share Posted December 30, 2021 1 hour ago, DaveT said: No, it is one or the other.. I have had several of these cars, not one had both. The diagrams are made to show both options. Both versions use the same wire, but the sensor and the indicator on the dash are different, and not compatible to mix. Ok, ok. This is the beasty, I don't think it is hooked up correctly as shown and the stuby isn't connected at all. Or maybe it is depending the dash options. I see where this is going..... Blk/Yel from above goes to the dash light or dash gauge depending on how equipped and so should be connected to the oil pressure gauge/sensor (#22), if it has a dash oil gauge and the oil pressure switch (#20) if only having a oil pressure dash light. Funny how my blood pressure and how many times I type oil pressure sensor are connected. This engine got knockey and the oil got sparkly after replacing the exploded drive belts, so I'm really trying to track down why. Thanks some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 Yes, that looks like the wire, from the top of the engine. Looks like the OEM insulator. The wire on the gauge sender looks correct also, but I can't really see the male connector. It is odd that it has both senders installed. From the factory, one is installed, and the other has a plug in the port. If one of the male connectors had newer looking marks where it was mated to the female, that would make me think it was last on that sender. The belts that broke - you are referring to the belts for the alt, power steering, water pump, A/C, correct? Those should not have done anything to cause engine damage, unless it was driven to a really bad overheat due to no water pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddT Posted December 30, 2021 Author Share Posted December 30, 2021 I found the oem connector, stuck to the frame in some crud, replaced the strange right angle connector and attached it to the one that seemed the best fit for having had been violently removed. The short wire has the flat male standard looking wire connector and isn't/hadn't been attached to anything after the accessory drive belt replacement, before I don't know. Your tip will be used to look more closely as to what may have hooked up previously. I don't have a picture of the dash with me and the car is on the other side of town buried under snow, but now I have a decent clue and feel more confident I didn't and or won't damage this nice little engine. My friend took a couple cars to a long time local mechanic for a free inspection, ended up getting some service done (I haven't seen the records yet, legal action is pending). Next thing we know both cars are worse or coming apart and it's driven pretty hard until something happens and some improper color coolant made its way in and some stop leak oil treatment. When I got to it to replacing the drive belts, the AC compressor bracket mounting bracket was flopping around. Sorry I'm rambling, it was driven a few miles down hill sans belts and I'm trying to say it may have not been working properly before. Now that I think about it, that's a pretty long time with no belts. It seemed to be running nicely after the belt replacement, but maybe the damage had already been done one way or the other. 75000 miles on it, and I love flat fours, so I'm looking forward to see what happened and getting it back on some sound footing mechanically again. Thanks again DaveT and Ultimate Subaru forum. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted December 31, 2021 Share Posted December 31, 2021 if you ground the wire that you think should go to the simple switch, IGN on, engine off, you should get a red oil light come on the dash 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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