Twigg101 Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 So, I took apart my dash, pulled out the instrument cluster, opened it and cleaned it. My speedometer would work half the time and the other half it would jump around all over the place so I pulled out the instrument cluster to see if the cable wasn't in all the way and while I did, noticed ants coming out of it. I got all the ants out, put it all back together and my hazard fuse was blown, pulled the negative terminal off the battery, plugged a new fuse in and now the right blinker and seatbelt light are alternating even though the blinker is off. Idk if it's related too, but my gas gauge says completely full and my voltage gauge is saying I have no volts but ticks downward when the blinker light is on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 Welcome to the Forum. What year and model is the Subaru? I've had similar humorous electrical gremlins like this on the EA82 body vehicles... "paranormal activity" door locks that rapidly opened and locked on their own... etc. I'm bad with electrical however more info about your specific vehicle might spark other's memory. Best of luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubiKing907 Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 Something happened between disassembly and reassembly. It's hard to say exactly what, but I would trace your turn signal connections and any thing else you think could be touching something it shouldn't. Check your grounds as well. I assume this is a Loyale or GL you're working on. As for the fuel gauge, there is an access panel under the carpet in the back. There are two wires accessible without opening the access panel. Make sure they are clean, and have good contact. To check the voltage you'll need the key in the run position. Under the access panel is the sender unit. I would personally not recommend opening it. Since it was working before, and you didn't open it, the fuel gauge problem shouldn't be there. It's sealed by some very sticky black glue, and if you open it you'd have to ensure it's sealed back up. Wouldn't want your ride to smell of gas, or worse, should the vehicle roll, start a fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 Blinker fluid has gone bad or leaked out and isn't conducting a proper ground causing a back-feed through the seatbelt control module warning lamp. Fix the leak and fill it with the proper ratio of DOT3 and water. GD 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 lol, even GD's jokes sound kinda grumpy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubiKing907 Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 GD, you legend you. I mean, your subi might just be haunted. My 92 was that way for a while. You'd be on the highway and the automatic belts would randomly start rolling forward. And you'd be sitting there trying to drive with this belt in the way, thinking, "...seriously...?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 9 hours ago, SubiKing907 said: GD, you legend you. I mean, your subi might just be haunted. My 92 was that way for a while. You'd be on the highway and the automatic belts would randomly start rolling forward. And you'd be sitting there trying to drive with this belt in the way, thinking, "...seriously...?" The belts going haywire can be the switch inside the door latch, or the wiring for it. Mine was wonky for a while, and I messed with the door switch on the pillar thinking that would fix it considering it dose the door open light on the dash and the dome light. Nope the seat belts have a separate switch in the door latch that has 3 wires. You can test this by opening the door, then pulling the door latch closed, the belts will move. Dirt and grease builds up and can mess with the switch contacts. I used some wd40 and rinsed it all out. Switch freed up and I give it just a dab of white lithium grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubiKing907 Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 (edited) 9 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said: The belts going haywire can be the switch inside the door latch, or the wiring for it. Mine was wonky for a while, and I messed with the door switch on the pillar thinking that would fix it considering it dose the door open light on the dash and the dome light. Nope the seat belts have a separate switch in the door latch that has 3 wires. You can test this by opening the door, then pulling the door latch closed, the belts will move. Dirt and grease builds up and can mess with the switch contacts. I used some wd40 and rinsed it all out. Switch freed up and I give it just a dab of white lithium grease. Good to know! That's a good tip. In my car the problem seemed to resolve itself. The belts work as they should and they haven't done anything funny for a few years. But should they start getting ideas again, now I know what to do! I've put a LOT of love into my 92. But I've asked a lot of the car, and have put it through a lot. I've welded a snowmachine deck to the roof, and driven that car up mountains with said snowmachines, dirt bikes, etc on the roof, and that's just the beginning. It's even been featured in the local paper for my wild ideas and builds. Lol. The Loyale is an excellent vehicle, if cared for they are borderline indestructible. I've asked way way more of my 92 than it was ever designed to do, and it's always given it to me. It's never said no. But I also have put the work, love, and money into it so it could handle those extremes and keep on running. Edited March 30, 2022 by SubiKing907 Spelling errors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twigg101 Posted April 1, 2022 Author Share Posted April 1, 2022 On 3/28/2022 at 10:56 AM, 1 Lucky Texan said: lol, even GD's jokes sound kinda grumpy! I thought of that and really contemplated it lol I took apart the dash again cleaned it all up and it still didn't work so I said screw it, the blinker still works, ill just refill the gas tank all the way every 150-200 miles. But just yesterday it all started working fine and the gas gauge goes way past full only when the right blinker is signaling. After I make the turn it goes right back to normal. I've decided im gonna sell the car because its giving me more issues now and im supposed to be moving state in a month. And sorry for not giving the year and model, its an 86 gl wagon with a carberator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted April 2, 2022 Share Posted April 2, 2022 (edited) 14 hours ago, Twigg101 said: I've decided im gonna sell the car because its giving me more issues now and im supposed to be moving state in a month. And sorry for not giving the year and model, its an 86 gl wagon with a carberator @Twigg101What problems is it giving now? If it is as superficial as the blinker problem then the car is worth hanging onto... cheap reliable transportation can be difficult to replace for what little you will get when you sell. Edited April 2, 2022 by 6 Star 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 2, 2022 Share Posted April 2, 2022 find a way to monitor voltage, maybe something wonky with the alternator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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