Geluso Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 I'm confused by my interior volt meter reading. It shows 10V. Where is the interior volt meter measuring that voltage? When I use my own volt meter I don't get any reading near 10V, but I don't see any reading around 14V like I expect to see. * I read 12.6V across the battery terminals. * I read ~12.6V from the eye terminal to ground on the engine case * I read 18V (a lot!!) from the alternator positive output post to ground on the engine case * And, hey, why do I get a different reading between literally the post or the eye terminal? They're touching the same thing!! I thought I was dealing with a bad wire somewhere but I've replaced a noticeably bad wire and I can't find what looks like any voltage drops between the alternator and the battery. The eye terminal and the wire on the positive alternator post have gotten physically hot to the point where they melt plastic on the wire. Check out pictures to see the melted wire. My best guess is there's still a bad wire somewhere. Or maybe the alternator is bad? Shouldn't it read 14 or 16 volts and not 18 volts? Any insight is appreciated! And again, my original question is where exactly is that interior volt meter measuring that voltage? I really don't understand why it alone shows 10V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geluso Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 Maybe my eye terminal just isn't actually contacting the positive output post? I really don't understand how I get two different readings from touching the post or the eye terminal. Here's a photo of the not-burnt connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkankinPickle Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 By "eye terminal" do you mean the "ring connecter" that bolts to the back of the alternator positive-output-post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 The condition of the nuts, stud and ring terminal on the alternator output looks like a very poor connection. Disconnect it, and clean all the rust and corrosion of the parts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 Note it is also possible that the second nut, that holds the stud in when the ring terminal is removed is loose. If it is loose, the connection on the inside could also be causing heat and corrosion, so it should be checked also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geluso Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 Yes, I mean the same thing with "eye terminal" and "ring connector." OK, let me scrub these up and hopefully it is a very easy fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geluso Posted June 1, 2022 Author Share Posted June 1, 2022 I replaced the washers and nuts on the alternator and literally everything reads properly now. What an easy fix. Scrub scrub scrub those connections. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydube Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 That alternator likely has all kinds of internal corrosion and it does not take much to affect voltage output. Get a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 older post, likely everything taken care of by now but, who knows? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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