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Updated oddcomp's MS n' EDIS fuel/DIS


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Shucks, thanks Bennie, but this sort of thing would stretch my skill set if something not work out.

OK , I didn't stop to count the slots. Gannon is up on this, Arduino stuff, optical dizzy ....

If I mounted radiator fan on the front there would be heaps of clearance to radiator of a front mounted trigger wheel on crank pulley damper.

Found an old post today of a proposal by some fella doing holes in front face of his Ford 4 cross flow engine. He had his neat 36 holes...post petered out

Guessing the holes give the magnetic dropout.

Around the flywheel or crank pulley needs dividing into 36 equal portions to produce 36 holes, 36 spaces between holes, so a hole diameter needs to equal 5° of ya circumference

And then that missing toof for the 36-1 thing to work -remove material between two specific holes

Jeepers, the optical is gotta be the way to go ....

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3 hours ago, Step-a-toe said:

Jeepers, the optical is gotta be the way to go ....

Until you need a new optical dizzy! 

The drilling of the flywheel, make sure the initial holes is in the right spot!! 

Cheers 

Bennie

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  • 1 year later...

talk about stirring up an ancient thread ...

One is about to embark on this .....just a little closer

Does anyone know if some of the originals are around ? Oddcomp ? etc ?

I have got a trigger wheel from the UK. The one very close to the same diameter of the EA82 crank pulley at about 130mm, in pilot hole form, not the ring gear, in order to turn out an ID to suit, turning it into a custom size ring gear. At 130 it will clear the water pump pulley. I was looking at 145mm OD ring gear style for its ID but this would mean cutting a water pump pulley down to just be the front pulley. Will be planning to use a twin pulley alternator pulley to use the front pulley for belt duties

I was initially measuring up the 2V pulley from Series 1 turbo , at the outer pulley ring sitting on the rubber , but considering these things can budge and come loose, the rear V will need to be machined down past the rubber and fix the trigger wheel to solid in an interference press on sort of fit, to be welded and balanced when in correct position

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20 hours ago, Step-a-toe said:

talk about stirring up an ancient thread ...

One is about to embark on this .....just a little closer

Does anyone know if some of the originals are around ? Oddcomp ? etc ?

I have got a trigger wheel from the UK. The one very close to the same diameter of the EA82 crank pulley at about 130mm, in pilot hole form, not the ring gear, in order to turn out an ID to suit, turning it into a custom size ring gear. At 130 it will clear the water pump pulley. I was looking at 145mm OD ring gear style for its ID but this would mean cutting a water pump pulley down to just be the front pulley. Will be planning to use a twin pulley alternator pulley to use the front pulley for belt duties

I was initially measuring up the 2V pulley from Series 1 turbo , at the outer pulley ring sitting on the rubber , but considering these things can budge and come loose, the rear V will need to be machined down past the rubber and fix the trigger wheel to solid in an interference press on sort of fit, to be welded and balanced when in correct position

OLD. 

These days you just get a LINK Monsoon. The Nissan 360 optical trigger pattern works with the EA82 optical distributor - no need for any of that trigger wheel foolishness. LINK is out of New Zealand - should be pretty easy for you to find a distributor. 

https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4X-MonsoonX-ECU-V3

GD

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On 10/17/2021 at 6:13 PM, Turbone said:

I can contact oddcomp if you wish, he might make a appearance here if you have some questions

That would be great if you can get him in here from time to time as I go about this. Pics and maybe some timing map figures if he still has them and a continuation of how it went

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On 10/18/2021 at 9:41 AM, GeneralDisorder said:

OLD. 

These days you just get a LINK Monsoon. The Nissan 360 optical trigger pattern works with the EA82 optical distributor - no need for any of that trigger wheel foolishness. LINK is out of New Zealand - should be pretty easy for you to find a distributor. 

https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4X-MonsoonX-ECU-V3

GD

Bit late for that now, as I am too far into this old path. I like the idea of crank fire triggering, avoiding signal coming from the other end of a timing belt, and the limp mode of the EDIS4. I have a couple of EDIS4 modules, cost me nothing at the start :)

 

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On 10/17/2021 at 6:41 PM, GeneralDisorder said:

OLD. 

These days you just get a LINK Monsoon. The Nissan 360 optical trigger pattern works with the EA82 optical distributor - no need for any of that trigger wheel foolishness. LINK is out of New Zealand - should be pretty easy for you to find a distributor. 

https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4X-MonsoonX-ECU-V3

GD

$1000 ECU is a long stretch from slapping on $100 worth of used ignition components.

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On 10/20/2021 at 11:59 AM, GeneralDisorder said:

Not when you consider the benefits and the multiple levels of frustration and time you will save. 

GD

uh. oh, what gives, you know something GD? I am curious about any benefits of crank fire firstly and running propane so should benefit from higher advance down low and reduce timing further up the range

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/21/2021 at 6:28 PM, Step-a-toe said:

uh. oh, what gives, you know something GD? I am curious about any benefits of crank fire firstly and running propane so should benefit from higher advance down low and reduce timing further up the range

I only know that I've done fuel injection every way you can imagine with pretty much every stand alone option out there and the LINK stuff saves a lot of time and frustration. Adding trigger wheels and all that to an engine incapable of using the additional resolution because ultimately it's red line is low, it's horse pucker potential is laughable..... just use the parts it came with - the optical distributor is quite reliable. 

GD

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3 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:

I only know that I've done fuel injection every way you can imagine with pretty much every stand alone option out there and the LINK stuff saves a lot of time and frustration. Adding trigger wheels and all that to an engine incapable of using the additional resolution because ultimately it's red line is low, it's horse pucker potential is laughable..... just use the parts it came with - the optical distributor is quite reliable. 

GD

Aha, I use the Series 1 distributor which is not optical. I don't run an ECU or wet fuel. The optical needs an ECU. I intended to keep my set up as basic as possible for reliability - and it has been just that. Although one distributor 4 pin module failed in 2018 and they are rocking horse poo. I feel better modernising the system to do away with impossible to find modules, or rather put the money towards new stuff rather than pay through nose for a 35 year old module that some may have. I am also looking forward to the challenge 

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I virtually never see one of the 360 optical units fail. They are extremely reliable and have needle bearings for the shaft. I've seen plenty with 250k+ on them still working great. 

In many ways the optical unit is simpler. It's just a chopper disc with 360 slots and an infrared emitter and receiver. It produces a really nice clean square wave that you can use to fire the ignition on the falling edge. The added reliability of the shaft needle bearings vs. the bronze bushings of other types makes them a lot more reliable long term IMO. 

GD

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yep, but the dizzy you mention is not gonna work for me with my stuff and I am chasing crank fire accuracy if that is all possible. The dizzy of the series 1 with the 4 pin internal module (2 for ignition, two for knock control delay) also has roller bearings not the bushes of EA81 style dizzy. I have just put the hacksaw through the rear-most side of the rear V of the pulley. Through 5mm metal, 5 mm of rubber. Hacksaw to reduce chance of lathe work softening the rubber cushion to a point that it does not want to play any more. Next will be some lathe work to tidy up a support for the trigger wheel, and get trigger wheel ID cut to suit the pulley

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  • 2 weeks later...
18 hours ago, oddcomp said:

Someone rang?

I have a few questions given that your work has inspired me to try EDIS4 and MJE. Meanwhile, I figured to do the above - ring gear will be solid mounted to inner section not the bit that can move on a rubber cushion, either move position or alter sensor gap at the worst moment.

I think pics of yours vanished. You also did cam sensor?

What happened to yours?

 

Got any record of map advance bins?

I am propane only and want to see more advance down low, limit upper revs advance and generally do something different to the dinosaur given the ignition modules are like hens teeth, and like 35 year old decay on them if found at a premium price

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On 5/20/2020 at 8:39 PM, Step-a-toe said:

The cam drive cog has 36 teeth

If one could have a tooth knocked out, shaved down and mounted to crank pulley machined to fit...taking up the unused V groove.. I get the feeling a sensor needs longer teeth to read correctly

Now see why those who have done aftermarket control have used the optical dizzy - I think it has 360 tiny slots in its breaker wheel. Better accuracy than 36-1 trigger wheel for certain

 

 

On 5/21/2020 at 12:10 AM, el_freddo said:

I’m pretty sure the optical dizzy has 180 grooves, one for every two degrees. 

Im sure you’ll come up with some thing mate, you always do! 

Cheers 

Bennie

I think in recent days, trying to prove someone wrong on the 360 slots being only 180, I counted 60 and was only a third of counting half a wheel. I think there is 360 slot holes

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I have been reading a lot of forum entries around the English speaking world trying to nut out suitable part numbers, cross referencing to Australian part numbers and identify possible donor vehicle details from our local market for trigger wheel sensor, ign coils and lead sets. Silverbullet on ausubaru used a Ford Fiesta coil that had a 4mm central male pin inside each coil tower and ended up chasing ends to make his own ignition leads.

 

On coil pack choice, Trigger Wheels tells of two types, one and two. Describes type 2 as having central pins , and recommends using type 1.

Looking inside the coil towers of type 1 there are almost normal looking size female sockets in brass, with a cone shaped recess hole in below each socket.

The external appearance of type one coil towers are that they look squat with external rib - HT lead plugs clip over this rib

A US part number for type 1 comes up as FD487.  REPCO Australia sell Fuelmiser branded Delphi stickered versions of this for as CC240. The GOSS part number C190

I even found HELLA and HITACHI numbers for this coil

In US models this coil seems to be common for 90's V8. In Oz it is rumoured to be one of two coils used for our 5.0 litre V8 AU Falcon range

Given the price difference between Oz and US , I will still buy from US and get a greater manufacturer choice and have used 1996 Ford Crown Victoria as the vehicle model in the catalogues. Seems it had one engine choice to simplify ordering. 4.6l V8.

Discussing Trigger Wheels recommendation to go type 1, which I am assuming is the shorter clip on coil tower type, we came to the conclusion to continue with "off the shelf" access to parts and not go down same road of sourcing pieces to construct HT leads - mainly due to making right angled boots take the lead. Order a set of leads for a V8 to use their coil ends and cut plug end (easier to do these ends) to suit required length. Had trouble getting cord length data on the individual leads, so if the set falls short of two around 42" length - needed if coil goes where EA82T dizzy lives - for #1 and #3 with a spider inlet - I will consider one coil pack per side. This idea would use short HT leads and only one side of each coil. This would result in spare coil each side in case of a fail !

I think I ordered Crank Angle Sensor from this same model

 

The external appearance of type 2 coil towers are just tall, smooth wall smoke stacks. These are the pin type, identify as FD497, or in Oz CC239 Fuelmiser Delphi, or C220 GOSS as fitted to Ford Focus 2002

Edited by Step-a-toe
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