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mcbrat

Idea for the T-Case lifted folks....

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how about using a modified DOJ Cup off the front tranny stubs to make a PTO that you could use to drive a winch, etc.... while in Soobie 2WD mode.....

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Hi Mick. Seems like I heard something about Rob doing that on the Unhatched/LittleBrownMule. Powered an A/C pump for onboard air or something like that. Certainly would be novel entertainment for Jeepers met on the trail.

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I've been mocking up such a beast. The system I'm working up uses two variable displacement hydraulic pumps, one on either side. Then I'd use a hydraulic motor to drive a winch and plumb in some connection points for jacks and such (porta-power anyone?). The problem I'm having is two-fold. First, that adds a LOT of weight, almost all of it in the front. Second, where in the heck am I gonna store all the fluid for this beast?

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Wouldn't you need to "lock" one of the stubs motionless in order for power to be transmitted to the other one? Seems like you would have to, as the front diff is an open unit. But it is a good idea, using the front stub as a power take-off drive.

 

Only other thing to consider is, when in 4WD mode, you're still driving the front stub axle. So it would have to be a unit that would handle sustained power applied to it.

Just tought on that for a second. An air-operated clutch pack would work. Used them at the last job I had to bring in secondary functions on some of the machines we built. Air pressure applied, clutch engaged; air off, clutch free-wheels. Hmmmm, more ideas floating thru the brain now.

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Wouldn't you need to "lock" one of the stubs motionless in order for power to be transmitted to the other one? Seems like you would have to, as the front diff is an open unit. But it is a good idea, using the front stub as a power take-off drive.

 

This is why I was using two pumps. Then I wouldn't have to block off one side. On the other hand, if you wanted to go that route, you could simply use the DOJ cup, weld a fat bar to it, then weld the bar to the cross member.

 

Only other thing to consider is, when in 4WD mode, you're still driving the front stub axle. So it would have to be a unit that would handle sustained power applied to it.

Just tought on that for a second. An air-operated clutch pack would work. Used them at the last job I had to bring in secondary functions on some of the machines we built. Air pressure applied, clutch engaged; air off, clutch free-wheels. Hmmmm, more ideas floating thru the brain now.

This is where the variable displacement hydraulic pumps come into play. Set to 0 displacement, they won't pump any fluid and, in that state, won't care a lick about continuous power being applied. Then again, those pumps are kinda spendy, so an air-actuated clutch pack would make for a really nice insurance policy.

 

I guess with a set of air clutches between the tranny and the pumps, you'd just leave them disengaged under normal driving conditions. If you got stuck, you'd just apply air to the clutches and ease in some displacement on the pumps. You'd either have to play with the throttle or you'd have to devise some sort of governor to keep the RPM's up under load. hmmm.....

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As the builder of UNHATCHED I have experimented with lots of idea's to use the stub axles.I did successfully install a a/c pump with electric clutch to make onboard air.I also tried to run a hydrualic power steering pump to power my snow plow.Here's the catch, when you connect to the stub axle you have to lock one side solid.You also have to remember that those axles will run in reverse when ever you back up! My powersteering pump didn't like running in reverse and detonated in a few days.So my conclusion is , only hook to the stub axles if using a clutch that can be manually released and don't run in reverse will running your attachment.Also you can't really get enough rpm to run hydrualics do to the gear reduction or the front diff.I know there's a perfect combination out there some where , just will have to try until we get it right.

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