Xithael Posted Thursday at 01:32 AM Share Posted Thursday at 01:32 AM Hey all, I’m having a strange problem with a fluctuating idle speed in my 1992 Subaru Loyale. When I turn it over, it runs and idles at 1900 RPM, then when it’s been running for a while, it starts to go down then kinda sputters out. I looked this up on google, but mostly what I got from it was “vacuum leak.” I also have to adjust the timing, so I was wondering if maybe that fixes it? I’m a very inexperienced mechanic, at least when it comes to real life. The engine is an EA82, and it’s a bit of a mix and match of two different engines. It’s single point fuel injection. If anyone has any ideas, please feel free to type away down in the replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted Thursday at 04:57 AM Share Posted Thursday at 04:57 AM 1900 is double the normal idle pretty much. So that firstly should be addressed. No CEL going off? Online manuals are likely found here:https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/ Been a while for me since I’ve had any EA82s but from memory there’s often issues with the CTS coolant temp sensor, or the IAC I think. Closed system for air that’s what google was alluding to. Check for leaks, yes. Adjust the timing how so? Just the distributor position? You have a timing light ? Should be cheap enough these days. Get a feel for that too although your car is kind of a “set it and forget it” type of deal. Going forward and not on subject here, be sure to get yourself some timing belts while you maybe can still find them. It’s the drivers side USA that’s the hardest to find since that’s the one that typically goes. Check for any wobble in your distributor too. Lift the cap and rotor too and grab the top and shake it left right front back. You will be ok with a slight up and down play but should be nothing side to side. Start there and I’m sure others who run those engines still will chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuspiciousPizza Posted Friday at 12:16 AM Share Posted Friday at 12:16 AM I'm curious about this engine it sounds like it's had some work done. If this rough idle began to occur after the work was done then it may be a timing issue. If this just started occuring out of the blue, then the first thing that comes to my mind is electrical/electromechanical. Checking the timing wouldn't hurt, cylinder #1 is the front passenger-side. Be sure to check your cam timing as well otherwise you're only diagnosing half of the timing. Check the diagnostic table in the FSM for rough idle symptoms. Don't go throwing parts at it, it may be tricky finding something you may not really need. Although it is a good idea to have spare parts. :] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xithael Posted Saturday at 04:49 PM Author Share Posted Saturday at 04:49 PM On 5/15/2025 at 5:16 PM, SuspiciousPizza said: I'm curious about this engine it sounds like it's had some work done. If this rough idle began to occur after the work was done then it may be a timing issue. If this just started occuring out of the blue, then the first thing that comes to my mind is electrical/electromechanical. Checking the timing wouldn't hurt, cylinder #1 is the front passenger-side. Be sure to check your cam timing as well otherwise you're only diagnosing half of the timing. Check the diagnostic table in the FSM for rough idle symptoms. Don't go throwing parts at it, it may be tricky finding something you may not really need. Although it is a good idea to have spare parts. :] Yes, this engine has been some time in the works now. It’s been rebuilt from the block, and hasn’t run in 3 years or so. The cams have been timed, I believe? That’s when you set it to TDC and put the belts on? I believe that it’s been done. I have the manufacturer’s manuals, and I’ve checked about timing it, but since me and my grandpa started from scratch, we also had to put new fluids in, coolant, oil, etc. That ended up meaning that we also had to follow the procedures for warming up the coolant to temp, which is in right about the same area as the timing section, but since it has this issue I’ve been wondering: if it has an exhaust leak, is it worth trying to time right now? Like, if we fix the exhaust leak AFTER timing the engine, do we have to time it again? Thanks for the feedback, -Xithael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xithael Posted Saturday at 04:54 PM Author Share Posted Saturday at 04:54 PM On 5/14/2025 at 9:57 PM, moosens said: 1900 is double the normal idle pretty much. So that firstly should be addressed. No CEL going off? Online manuals are likely found here:https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/ Been a while for me since I’ve had any EA82s but from memory there’s often issues with the CTS coolant temp sensor, or the IAC I think. Closed system for air that’s what google was alluding to. Check for leaks, yes. Adjust the timing how so? Just the distributor position? You have a timing light ? Should be cheap enough these days. Get a feel for that too although your car is kind of a “set it and forget it” type of deal. Going forward and not on subject here, be sure to get yourself some timing belts while you maybe can still find them. It’s the drivers side USA that’s the hardest to find since that’s the one that typically goes. Check for any wobble in your distributor too. Lift the cap and rotor too and grab the top and shake it left right front back. You will be ok with a slight up and down play but should be nothing side to side. Start there and I’m sure others who run those engines still will chime in. CEL is not on. I have a timing light, but it seems that the flywheel should be at 20 degrees towards the passenger side when it’s completely on the other side. I believe the timing light had to be cranked all the way clockwise to get the mark to show up. The distributor is loose right now so as to get it in a position that could be correct, but it may be worthwhile to just buckle it down for now to get some kind of consistency? We have new belts, fortunately my grandpa bought some back in the day. As far as I know, we have all the parts, we just need to put it back together, which we’re not far off from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xithael Posted Saturday at 04:56 PM Author Share Posted Saturday at 04:56 PM Unrelated to the replies, but since it was idling normally for a bit, me and my grandpa took it out on the road for a test drive, and when we got back, the crank pulley bolt was so loose that it almost caused the belts to completely fall off, which I can only assume means that we did not torque the bolt. Does this mean we have to re-tension the belts? Thanks -Xithael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuspiciousPizza Posted Saturday at 05:30 PM Share Posted Saturday at 05:30 PM (edited) When you get the engine to TDC, what landmark in the engine bay does the distributor rotor point towards? It should point towards the brake master cylinder/brake booster. If it doesn't - lift the distributor an inch or two and rotate it (I forget which direction). Remember the distributor gears have a spiral to them, so the rotor will rotate as you insert the distributor. Bolt it down, it shouldn't be rattling around. Just back off the bolts when you set the ignition timing. This way the distributor doesn't accidentally move when you tighten it down. Be sure to have the proper RPM's (≈750, I believe) when you do the ignition timing. :] Edited Saturday at 05:47 PM by SuspiciousPizza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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