CharlieLS Posted October 19 Share Posted October 19 Hi again! Tried searching the forum for similar issues and couldn't find exactly what I was looking for - this might be two issues, or fifty-three issues, or they might be related to one unifying issue, so I'm just gonna put it out there. Recently (last 6 months or so), when I turn my ignition to "ON" without starting, the check engine light flashes (instead of just being steady-on) and there's a relay clicking constantly. I think it's probably the fan relay, because the fans also come on, but only for a second, then it clicks off again, sort of like when the green diagnostic connectors are connected under the kick panel, except they're not. Don't know if those two things are related (the CEL rapid flashing in "ON" position and the relay clicking), but the second part of the issue, or maybe a brand-new issue, started today. While driving around today, after having installing a new battery a couple days ago, the check engine light came on steady. So I stopped, attached the test connectors (the black ones) and got a fistful of codes. But the weird thing is, while waiting for them to cycle through again so I could double-check them, they changed. As in, started throwing codes that don't exist. Like..."8." and "5." It looks like the CEL got interrupted in the middle of flashing, so like, going from a long flash to a quick flash - maybe the code was supposed to be 18, but the long flash got cut off and made a short one, making it look like 8. This happened a few times, to a few different codes, leaving me not knowing exactly what the hell numbers I'm looking at 😂 What I *think* the codes were trying to say: 45,23,24,13,14,15,16,18? (Atmospheric sensor; airflow sensor; air control valve; cam angle sensor; fuel injector #1-3; and oh wait there is no code 18 so I really have no idea). The car appears to be driving fine. No stumbling, no cutting out, no weird smells (mostly). The only eyebrow-raising thing as far as function goes is that when I first installed the new battery (fully charged, of course), it didn't want to start right away, and then stumbled, almost died, and blew a lot of smoke (light-colored) out the tailpipe (sort of like my previous MAF problems, which I thought were solved). But once I got it to stabilize and the smoke cleared, it's been running fine since then, and only hesitated slightly to catch today after I pulled the codes. Does anyone know what the issue might be? Bad ECU, maybe? It's been replaced once, but not terribly recently, so I don't know how long the things should last. Or am I overlooking something really basic? Many thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted October 22 Share Posted October 22 Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or so. Clear the ECU co.des and see what comes back 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieLS Posted yesterday at 03:19 AM Author Share Posted yesterday at 03:19 AM Okay, the CEL codes did not come back, but the weird relay clicking continued, and has deepened into a stranger mystery.... So, after clearing the codes and not noticing anything too weird while driving it around for a while, I finally got the opportunity to ask a Subaru tech friend of mine about the relay clicking. While the key is in and turned on, without starting the engine, the fuel relay kept clicking on and off, pretty steadily. We listened to it with the hood open in a quiet garage and were also able to hear the fuel injectors *definitely* squirting fuel! (Confirmed when we let this go on for a bit and then the engine was flooded when I went to restart it) Even *more* ominously, there was a fun electrical crackling sound, like something was sparking a little bit every now and then. She even got a bit of a zap touching somewhere on the exhaust manifold, near the coil pack. But after unplugging all the spark plug wires and continuing to poke and listen, we found out that if we unplugged the connector for the IAC valve, the clicking and fuel injectors stopped (?!) We tried unplugging and plugging in the connectors for the injectors themselves, but that made no difference. It was *only* when the IAC connector was unplugged that it stopped. So...some kind of weird ground inside the IAC valve sensor portion?? Or...something else? We're both kinda stumped. I also tested the IACV according to the manual (testing for resistance across the pins of the connector on the valve itself, and testing for battery power at the harness connector) and everything was within parameters there. Before I go hunting for a new-used IACV to swap in just to see if that does anything (apparently they're not cheap LOL), does anyone have any speculation? Thanks everyone! This car always keeps me on my toes 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted 18 hours ago Share Posted 18 hours ago Find out where that crackling electrical noise is coming from. Try squeezing/wiggling the wiring loom in various areas to see if anything changes, you could have a break of some sort Weird that everything is rhythmical/at a set time interval - almost like your test connectors are still connected. Are you in the rust belt area? It could be worth going over your earths and ensuring they’re clean if not done already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted 2 hours ago Share Posted 2 hours ago Load Ground Power. You need a good complete circuit. Since this started when you changed the battery cable, I'd back up to there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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