jimbo747 Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 Hi there! I'm getting myself psyched up to to a preventative replacement on the timing belts on my wife's '87 GL wagon. I've read and printed the USRM write-up by Milesfox, and have the Haynes manual. Both the Haynes and Chilton manuals call for using a special tool to keep the crankshaft from rotating while you tighten the bolts. Is there anyway around this, or can a similar tool be rented from NAPA / Checker / Autozone? I figure on putting in the oil pump kit while I'm in there. Anything else I should consider? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 maybe a good time to replace the fan belts, i suggest oem , because aftermarket can stretch , plugs and wires, air filter , pvc, fuel filter , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spideyz Posted August 30, 2004 Share Posted August 30, 2004 might as well do the water pump while you've got all the belts out of the way, unless you just replaced it already. $40 and 45minutes well spent. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmmCeeBee Posted August 30, 2004 Share Posted August 30, 2004 You mean the tool to lock the camshafts while you tension the belts? I don't remember one to lock the crank... Miles' write-up gives a way to eyeball the tension, rather than using a tool. But it's easy enough to jury rig one up. I took a piece of steel plate (actually the square cover to an electrical box) and drilled four holes to match up the holes in the camshaft gear. Four short bolts mounted in those holes, to engage the camshaft gear. Then another hole in the center of the plate; this holds a large bolt which I use the torque wrench on. Total cost about $2, and it works flawlessly. Other guys here have mentioned similar homemade tools. -- Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spideyz Posted August 30, 2004 Share Posted August 30, 2004 I think he may be talking about holding the crank shaft gear still in order to break the nut loose... I've used a strap wrench on the gear... worked after some createive cussing. Also the screw driver in the flywheel trick is often talked about it. But if you are just replacing the belts and not the oil seals, you don't need to remove this gear anyway... Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boing Posted August 30, 2004 Share Posted August 30, 2004 I know exactly what you are talking about. I didn't use any tool at all and when I put the belt on the stupid engine would roll off mark...grrrrrrrrr. I just kept my eye on the hatch marks and kept on trying till I got it on. I truely would recommend that you take a close look at seals for leaks because this is an excellent time to replace them. If I had it all to do over again... I would have put an oil pump, water pump, all the front seals. 800 miles after I put the belts on, I had to go back and replace the belts again and put the seals in (another grrrrrrrrr). then after 2400 miles I had to replace the oil pump and I'm kickin myself in the rump roast for not putting a new water pump in. every one of these could be prevenative measures and could save ya alot of grief down the road. boing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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