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I need verification that I can pull the pistons without splitting the case. I have a ridge reamer and can make a piston pin puller, and I have the tools to hone the cylinder and replace the piston, but the chilton book I have stops short of actually saying that I can pull the pistons without splitting the case.

 

Also, where is a good source for head gaskets at an inexpensive price?

 

Thanks!

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My FSM says to split the case..

 

Headgaskets.. Inexpensive is a relative thing....Be too cheap and you get crap and end up doing it again.. Try the felpro permatorques.. no retorquing and I believe they are about $40

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It can be done without splitting the case. After removing the wrist pin you can turn the crankshaft and the con rod will push the piston up, turn the crankshaft all the way around, and the piston will stay at the top and the rod will come back to the bottom. Now put the wrist pin back into the rod and the turn the crankshaft again, it will push the piston far enough out of the block that you can get it out. Repeat the process for each cylinder. I hope that that makes sense. It will work. You wont need the ridge reamer.

 

 

Good luck. Buy Quality gaskets.

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Toybuilder is right on. I've used that method several times. Just be careful and you shouldn't have to worry about damaging the wrist pin or anything like that.

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I thought about doing that too but how are you going to hone the cylinder, Won't the rod get in the way. ie the rod will be resting on the bottom of the cylinder at the bottom of the stroke?

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If you've got a 3-stone (non bottle-brush) hone, you might be able to get the rod to balance upright and hone around it. I don't know if that would work, but it's a thought.

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Honing the entire cylinder isn't necessary. The rings don't contact the cylinder from top to bottom.

 

If you hone, the cylinder walls need to be absolutely spotless before you slam pistons back in there.

 

White glove clean. Take your time and do it right.

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Honestly I don't see the point in not splitting the case. The number of additional parts needed is extremely minimal, the oil pan gasket and pickup tube o-ring on these engines is almost always in need of replacement, and installation of the rings will be easier with the case halves laying upright on a bench where you can tap them downward and really see what you are doing.

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I have been thinking (Warning!), and Shawn is right, once I have gone that far, another hour to split and reassemble the case would probably pay for itself in overall time saved, cleanliness and saved frustration from working in awkward positions (imagine laying on your back honing the cylinder with the honing oil all pouring back in your face:mad:). I will prolly end up doing that. It will give me a chance to check the main bearings as well.

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