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welded rear diff??????

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ok, if im going to weld the rear diff, i need to weld the spider gears together right??? i know that im gonna have to take off a half shaft while street driving, but im not worried about that.... just wondering about the diff part........

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Sounds about right, don't forget to rotate the whole thing and weld the back side too!

 

I still have yet to put my axle back in. Three wheel drive gives you an interesting burnout patten:lol:

 

Good Luck,

Glenn

82 SubaruHummer welded!

01 Forester --- Not!

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Getting yourself a "Lincoln locker"? :D Olde-school trick in off-roading. Normally done on front axles which can be unlocked at the hubs. Not really recommended for street use. You run a high chance of breaking an axle in sharp turns. Also makes it a beast to control. If you do, I have been told to use Super Missle Weld rods of a high number. There will be a TON of stress on those welds.

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If you do, I have been told to use Super Missle Weld rods of a high number. There will be a TON of stress on those welds.

 

Aye, it's a good idea to do some nice clean but hefty welds. Don't want them breaking or you end up with a nice piece of shredded diff, also tending to destroy housings, etc. Speaking from exprience here, did that to my first truck. :banghead:

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You should weld it with a 220v mig if possible, less splatter. Otherwise a 220v arc welder. If you're using arc, try to rig it so that your welding upward, so most splatter will come down. Weld the spider gears really thick, fill in the whole area in each of the 4 valleys between the spiders. Doing a little weld between the 2 teeth will probably break, or the case will break from the stress of the gears trying to roll over the welds. Make sure you get all the slag and splatter off and rinsed out of the diff. Dont ever tip it pinion down before its fully cleaned or you'll get crap in the pinion bearings. Then put it back together, run it for awhile, then change the oil, and notice the amount of metal on the magnetic drain plug :eek: Then you're good to go. On both diffs I've welded, I've welded to the carrier as well, some say it's not a good idea, but its worked for me. Up to you if you want to do that as well.

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hehehe... I just got a welder for a late B-day present from my mom! (220V stick arc)

 

I think I need to get some diff-welding practice in!

 

anyone want to let me try welding their diff as practice? (free if it is a practice run! ;))

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the best and longest lasting way i've seen it done and have used. (i'm sorry idon't have the pictures, some reason i can't bring my desktop to iraq.)

 

thoroughly clean the oil out of the diff.

 

preheat the spiders and that center shaft that runs between them.

 

next tack the 4 spider gears together where they connect to each other. front and back.

 

then do solid beads welding the spiders together. (that should be 8 total small beads.)

 

next step, weld the gears to the center shaft inbetween the spider gears front and back.

 

let diff completly cooldown at least a few hours. then thoroughly clean out diff. drive for awhile then change oil.

 

i do not suggest welding to the carrier. the main reason why is the disimilar metals. all the welders i've talked to have said no. because the gears are a tool steel and the case is cast. not a strong hold. i've used a welded diff welded like the above mentioned. for a long time. then when i upgraded my car it went into erics car. so it's been around for over 3 years of hard abuse and nosign of giving out. turbone's old hatch, Subafly's hatch, and tex's hatch, all have the same style welded diff welded by the same welder. i put mine through hell and could not break the diff!

 

just my .02, but what do i know. right?

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