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Textured camo paint?? (Attn Ezap / Chairotsu)


Guest Flowmastered87GL
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Guest Flowmastered87GL

Ok I started prepping my brats new hood today and sanded it and sanded it (ok so its not PERFECT, but its better than the rusty one on there) Anyway the dark green camo paint I got for it almost has a texture to it. It was a windy day so the stupid wind took half the paint away (took 2 cans to paint both sides of a hood) and it STILL needs a final coat. Anyway any suggestions BEFORE I paint the final coat (the entire brat will get its final coat at a single time) Should I lightly sand it with like 400 grit (wet sand even?) I would like to have the color as consistent as possible so it doesnt look all streaky (since its being painted with a spray can)

 

I've never painted any subaru stuff bigger than an air cleaner or B/C pillars before, and those were both gloss black, this flat OD green is new to me.

 

Attn zap part (I forget, did Bob's paint kinda have a texture to it?)

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Guest Flowmastered87GL

ya, thats what I was thinking. The paint when I rub it kinda leaves green dust on my hands, so I think I shouldnt paint in the wind again. What I think happened is the paint was drying before it hit the surface and leaving a green dust on it resulting in a texture. I think I will wet sand it with REALLY gentle stuff before shooting the final coat somewhere sheltered

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Guest SubieSTORMTROOPER

you want the least amount of atmosphere around (ie: humidity, wind, RAIN :rolleyes: ) and spray at the same distance at all times. The further back you hold the can, the more evenly the paint will adhere. I am a graffitti artist (legal muralist) so my only medium is spray paint... Also, for a much better adhereance, go swap the stock black tip with white nozzle, for what is called a "NY thin"... These caps are found strictly on spray adhesives, and are a white cap with black spray nozzle and thinner ridges all around...these tips provide a much bolder, yet smoother adherance than the stock black tips, and ALWAYS make the finished product look better. You just have to be sure to keep blowing through the cap to keep it from clogging, as the passage is a little narrower, as it is intended for a less viscous fluid.

 

Good luck, post them pics

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Guest UltimateRX

I very rarely use rattle cans, but like said before, it is best to spray anything, whether using a rattle can or a spray gun, when there is the least amount of atmospheric interference. Little to no wind, warm day, 65 to 75 degrees, but not humid. The reason you have a fine dust of dried paint on the surface is because it was either too hot, you were too far from the surface, or the wind was blowing too hard (most likely the latter). What that is a paint that dried before it got to the surface being painted. On a paint gun you would adjust the pressure lower, I guess on a rattle can you'd have to get closer and sweep across the surface faster.

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Guest Chairotsu

I used rattle can straight fromthe Army Surplus store. It costs about a buck more a can than the krylon crap and is about 100 times better. I did mine in my garage with barely any light too. Just recently saw the results of a Krylon job, looked pretty bad. The owner asked me why mine had turned out so well.

 

It came out perfect, no lighter or darker parts, no drips, and NO orange peel. Anybody who saw it asked if I had painted it or had it painted, turned out nice.

 

Took 9 cans to do the whole brat. I did the bed black.

 

Would NOT recomend using the textured stuff. I used it on my hood, then painted over it. The textured stuff grabs clothes like crazy, collects stuff.

 

When are we gonna do what we're gonna do to it Flo?

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Guest Flowmastered87GL

In about a week from this weekend hopefully. I should have a the sawsall and the package of fun toys to stick on it by then :evil:

 

 

I think I will hit the hood with a scotch brite pad and a hose to "wet sand" off the bumps of dryed on paint. The broom actually worked pretty good too :lol:

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