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master cylinder replacement

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well, i swapped out my old brake lines for stainless steel ones and the result:...

 

Still spongy brakes! arrrgh!

 

I ended up getting the hard line that I broke fixed at my dad's mechanic, they bled it and I bled it again with a pressure bleeder when I got home. I am sure there is no air in the system.

 

I guess the master cylinder needs to be replaced... are these interchangable between the XT and XT6?

 

It looks pretty easy to remove and replace the thing - in the FSM there are like 4 lines dedicated to it. Is it really as easy as it looks?

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Did you bleed the Slave Cylinders at the calipers in the proper cross directional pattern?

 

I bleed QUARTS through mine before I realized I was doing it in the wrong order. Honestly didnt think it would make a difference but it really did. First time I did it in the proper order my pedal was 75% better than it had been. Did it one more time and it was rock solid. This was all after replacing lines from the rear seats to the rear calipers and doing rear dics swap.

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When you pump the pedal to get pressure and then stand on it. Does it hold SOLID or does it slowly go down ?
You are supposed to pump to get pressure?

 

I when I pump, it's soft, at first. It then firms up, if the engine is off. With the engine on, it's always soft. :banghead:

 

I think it holds solid, I will test this in a minute.

 

I bled with one of those pressure bleeders with the plastic tank with the pump. I attach it to the master cylinder, pump it, and then when I open a bleed valve, the fluid poured out. I did this to all the wheels in the X pattern.

 

Was I supposed to pump the pedal first?

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I never had luck with those "one man bleeder" kits.

 

These are the REAL one man bleeders (that people like me can afford :P )

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16029&highlight=speed+bleeder

 

Sorry I wasn't clear. I was refering to the engine off. With the engine on and using the brake booster it's a different story. That pedal, even a spongey one, should hold SOLID if you pump up pressure (engine off). If it starts to go down progressivly AT ALL then you have a leak somewhere. This stuff is HIGh pressure; even the smallest leak will leave you with a spongey pedal and air in the lines.

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Try gravity bleeding. It's often the most effective at removing stubborn air, which you want to rule out completely before throwing a MC at it. Just open the bleed screws and let it sit for a couple of hours, topping off the fluid as it goes down. Also, make sure you bleed where the lines connect to the MC, just to make sure that there is no air in there as well.

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