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hush777

Carb to SPFI Manual

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Hush777, you rock. Thanks for all the scanning and posting it up on your webspace.

 

 

Note: I would HIGHLY recommend getting 'hold of the FSM for the donor car and at least some sort of wiring diagram for the car the system is going into. It makes things worlds easier.

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Here is a link to the Conversion manual.:)

 

http://hush777.web1000.com/Conversion%20Manual.zip

 

Thanks to Snowman for putting this all together for us.

 

 

Also a link to the article in the USRM.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=61

 

Hush

I downloaded the manual and read it, You mention that to put this system on a ea81 you have to do a slight mod. to the dis., but you don't tell what this mod. is. Or maybe I missed it.

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As to the EA81 disty mod:

 

I have not personally done the conversion on an EA81, so I am not capable of giving detailed instructions. That's why I left that out. However, Miles Fox and others have put EA82 distributors on EA81 engines, and from what I understand, you have to grind off one of the hold-downs). That's it.

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Just curious,... if efi is more effecient,.. which means less fuel is used per Km,.. how does it yeald more power???

 

What is the power difference between the stock ea82 carb, and the ea82 with the SPFI mod?

 

I am considering the SPFI,... just have to find one (preferably cheap :brow:)

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I found I had a lot more power with EFI than with carb. EFI can yield more power with less gas because it can deliver the spark and fuel at a better time. An ideal advance curve for fuel and ignition is not a real curve, more of a jagged line that basically goes in one direction. (I have a great pic of an advance curve in the owner's manual for my 1983 BMW 528e - my next project!) Mechanical devices like carbs and centrifigual distibuitors cannot follow that curve precisely, but a computer can. A computer can also compensate for wear of devices on an engine much better than a carb/disty engine can. Simply put, because FI is more efficent, it gives you more power. I noticed that I had a LOT more power at speed on the highway. Going from 65mph to 80+mph on a level road is a cinch. icon10.gif (Compared to what it was like before) I highly recommend doing the mod if you can find the parts.

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What did it cost to make the change?

I'd consider it, if it was not too expensive :confused:

 

I'm tired of not getting the vehicle to refire untill its back level ground.:banghead:

 

Does anyone remember what it cost them when they did it?

 

Thanks,

Glenn

82 SubaruHummer--carter weber

01 Forester--injected

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When I did the conversion, I had a complete SPFI parts car that I got for $100. I had to buy a fuel pump since the parts car didn't have one, which cost me $40 including shipping. I can't imagine that a junkyard would charge more than $200 for all of the used parts that you need. New parts will also run between $150 and $200. The most expensive bit being the oxygen sensor ($92 from 1stsubaruparts.com).

 

I would guesstimate that my total cost was less than $300. That's cheaper than installing a new Weber carburetor.

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I spent $160 in the junkyard for the parts (without taking a parts car). That includes an A/C compressor & hoses (mine was shot). That did not include the fuel pump (Snowman - who did you get your fuel pump from? I am using a BMW one that puts too much pressure on the system). I got an Bosch O2 sensor from Carquest for about $50 which I have yet to install. (Change it before you install the new y-pipe.) Get several spares of stuff too, at least 2 ECU's to work with for example, and MAKE SURE YOU GROUND THE CASE ON THEM!!!! Anything off an 87-later is basically identical (automatic seatbelts do something weird - but are still similar), the 86's use an oddball wiring harness. The Hayes manual for the 1980-1989 model year has a schematic for the 87-later model years. Just make sure that if you have an automatic, you get the wiring harness off an automatic. By the way, a new CAS for a SPFI car costs over $650 from the dealership - Don't buy new parts!!!!

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I downloaded the manual and read it, You mention that to put this system on a ea81 you have to do a slight mod. to the dis., but you don't tell what this mod. is. Or maybe I missed it.

I have a picture (bitmap graphic) that shows the neccessary mod. I don't remember where I got it from. I do not know how to display a picture on the message board, but if you PM me I may be able to send it to you as an attachment on an email. According to it, you do have to modify the bottom gear to mesh properly (the EA82 drive gear is too high).

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Have any of you Aussie fellows done this conversion, what cars are recomended for this conversion?

 

How much is it likely to cost

 

Are there any wrecking yards that actually let people inside to browse the cars?

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I have a picture (bitmap graphic) that shows the neccessary mod. I don't remember where I got it from. I do not know how to display a picture on the message board, but if you PM me I may be able to send it to you as an attachment on an email. According to it, you do have to modify the bottom gear to mesh properly (the EA82 drive gear is too high).

If you can send it to me via email, I'll try to get it posted in the USRM. That would be helpful for this conversion and for others. Please send it to my non-personal email account: subaruklubofalaska@hotmail.com

 

Thanks.

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any idea where I can get the manual...link not working anymore :( ???? PM me? Have A carbed 87 AWD 5spd manual wagon and a wrecked FI 87 2wd auto wagon that should have everything I need for the swap right? Know a guy with a couple turbos and intercoolers hes willing to help me adapt to the 4WD wagon but looking to do the FI swap first. any suggestions??

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THANKS!!! So I was reading some of it and does anyone knw how much of a problem it will be to change a carbed 87 4WD manual to SPFI using a 87 automatic 2WD SPFI? The manual says to try and find a donor car with the same transmission...what kind of problems will I run into if I cant find a manual SPFI donor car?

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This is only a guess but, you may need to do some tracing and rewiring for the neutral and park switch and you might need to figure out how the kick-down system works. Other than that, I think that's all you'll need to worry about. Again, this is only a guess from looking at the pinouts of the ECU in the FSM.

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