singletrack Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 I finished swaping in my CCR motor today, and after a little fight with the disty I got it running. Which I think is pretty remarkable since I've never pulled an engine or done a clutch before, and had no guidance beyond this website. However, it's ticking like a mofo. Like my old motor did when it was thirsty for oil. But this one is full of fresh synthetic oil, and the oil pump is brand new. It's also idling pretty rough. Like shaking the car rough. Now, I just did the eyeball timing adjustment, but the thing is running so it can't be off that far. The T belts came installed, and installed correctly presumably. Anyway, it does highway speed, but it sounds like I'm killing it. I drove around for a while thinking the ticking would go away once oil really started ciculating, but after maybe 15-20 miles it's still doing it. So should I chalk this up to "break in" or is there something I should be looking at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 How does your oil pressure look? You really do need a timing light to do it right - and then still a little piddling - just guessing can still land you WAY off - timing can be way off and an engine run I am assuming it is FI as it is an 1988 - check your vacuum lines and all gaskets/seals that are under vacuum (basically everything on the intake after the MAF sensor) - it sounds like you may also have a bad vacuum leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted March 17, 2005 Author Share Posted March 17, 2005 How does your oil pressure look? Oil pressure is at 45 when turning a few K. I'll get a timing light and do it right, but for now I just lined up the rotor with #1 at 20bdc. I replaced a few vaccum hoses as I went along, or in a couple instance cut off the cracked ends to get to good soft hose. I was pretty careful about the whole thing, and didn't see any obvious leaks. There weren't any a few day ago when I pulled the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasteland Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Wallmart has cheap timing lights. I'd say it's time aswell. that would make it tick and idle rought. you didn't drop any PBR pull tabs in the intake did you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 maybe recheck where you put your spark plug wires, then your ignition timing. It could be cam timing as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 OK, first, by your description of how you set up timing, you're one tooth off on the distributor (practically guaranteed). Second, drain out that synthetic immediately and replace with regular oil! (I thought we discussed that). The engine parts will NOT seat properly and your lifters will not pump up using synthetic oil. Wait until you have about 10,000 miles on it before going back to synthetic. I know the stuff is expensive, but you're hurting the engine by using it at this point. (Didn't read your break in tips, did you? ) Emily http://www.ccrengines.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted March 17, 2005 Author Share Posted March 17, 2005 Didn't read your break in tips, did you? ) I did, but I din't see anything about synthetic oil. Although I shoulda figured. Well, it's off to my local 24 hour Walmart for oil and a timing light! Thanks all Edit: It does actually say "Do not use synthetic". Whoops.:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tizzle Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 I agree with all the above posts. I had the same exact things happen with my car when I put the new engine in. The ticking went away by simply adding a little bit more oil. The shaky/poorly running/knocking engine syndrome went away after I properly adjusted the timing to spec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliptin Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 singletrack, how did you go about keeping track of everything you took off the motor so you could get it back together? It looks like I'm going to need to replace the front seals and I just can't see doing it with the engine in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karinvail Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 when my husband and I did my motor swap, before-hand I marked *everything* on both sides of the connection that wasn't totally obvious with masking tape and numbers corresponding to where it hooks up to. Helped immensely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 I will be interested to hear if the oil change and timing fix this. lifter tick is really a good bit differnt than pinging that may be caused by incorrect timing adjustment. lifter tick hapens ALL the time, pinging is under load. I have had sube motors take a while to "pump up" the lifters. but it sounds like you sholud have been there by now. yeah its best to break in a motor on regular oil but I doubt that the synthetic is the cause of your tick. a lifter is a simple component dont think it makes much difference to it what kind of oil it gets. I had a Lifter problem on a rebuilt EA82T motor once too..... get this straightended out right away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted March 17, 2005 Author Share Posted March 17, 2005 singletrack, how did you go about keeping track of everything you took off the motor so you could get it back together? Well, when I took it apart I realized there weren't really that many parts. It's a helluva lot more straightfoward than, say, inertia valves in mountain bike suspension. Nonetheless I labeled eveything and took lots of digi camera pics as I went along. Great thing with hi-res digi pics is being able to zoom way in; it's like a virtual tour of your engine bay. I also had my parts car sitting there, so I could compare. Although that car is carbed so it didn't help much - I'm pretty sure the spare tire is in the same place, that's about it. Aside from the timing I'm pretty dam sure I put it all back together right; like I says it runs at least as well as my old motor, besides the ticking that is. Exhaust has a good rhythm, I don't think it's missing a cyclinder or anything. It's got good ol' conventional oil in it now, and I'm off to checker for a timing light. I'll report back after I run over the first Honda. (Or Jeep) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 OK, timing is good. I had it set up a little advanced, like 25 or so, it's set to 20 now. Not bad for the first time with no timing light. I added a lil more oil, the ticking continues. I would say there is too much oil now, but I don't know what else to try. So, any more ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyrider Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 hmmm! 6quarts of oil hey.....its not enough why not add one or two more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 How think is the oil you put in there? And what brand? I have heard, and done myself, that you can put 1/2 quart of ATF or Marvel's Mystery oil in there...ATF worked for me, I tried Marvel's before...to no avail. [HTi]Johnson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasteland Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 Update? any luck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted March 19, 2005 Author Share Posted March 19, 2005 No luck, but I haven't had any time to mess with it since yesterday. Oil that's in there is generic 10-40 from Walmart. I may try the ATF thing, as I'm running out of options. I guess I should verify the timing belts are correct as well, as I didn't install them myself. Of course, I figured I'd leave the covers on tilll warranty was up so that'll be a pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromanic Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 No luck, but I haven't had any time to mess with it since yesterday. Oil that's in there is generic 10-40 from Walmart. I may try the ATF thing, as I'm running out of options. I guess I should verify the timing belts are correct as well, as I didn't install them myself. Of course, I figured I'd leave the covers on tilll warranty was up so that'll be a pain. Singletrack, what am I missing here? You have a new CCR Re-man motor, is that correct? And you have excessive lifter noise? Correct? And you are considering treating with ATF hoping to correct the lifter noise? My understanding is that the ATF treatment is used in an attempt to clean out the gunk that may have accumulated in an old motor. (ATF is high detergent) If I am reading this thread right, and you have a new CCR motor, seems to me like there is no possibility of gunk in the lifters, as they would be new. So the ATF treatment would be fruitless, gaurenteed. (might void CCRs gaurentee too, I don't know.) I confess that I have a problem understanding what I read sometimes, so if I've misunderstood this thread, please disregaurd the above. On the otherhand, I have a EA 82 that sat for five years after 12000 miles on a rebuild, and the owner probably did not change the oil during those miles. AT broke. It sat, 5 years. I bought it. HORRIBLE lifter noise. I've tried MMO. No avail. Will try ATF next. Good luck, and hope this helps. Pyro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 I would think you would have to have the firing order correct and the plug wires connected correctly to get it run at least as good as it is doing. Have you tried pulling a plug wire one at a time to see if you can isolate the tapping, or is it coming from all the cylinders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 Joel, We'll be back Monday and we'll be in touch to figure out what's going on here. Is it still idling rough? Or is the lifter ticking the only problem now? Sometimes a lifter will not want to pump up. If that's the problem, driving it is the best thing for it. Either way, we'll contact you. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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