starkiller Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 anybody have a pic of where this is located? dont have any manuals or books yet and didnt find a pic when i did a search...hopefully going to a pap tomorrow and since on the way home the dreaded red light came on throwing a code 35 and again a 32 at me i guess its time to try and find some solenoids..but, i am pretty dumb at repairing stuff so i need pics...should i check the bottom of the charcoal canister and see if its gummed up at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 it will be located near the thermostat housing on an spfi, trace the vacuum to the carcoal canister, the rohtehr one is the egr solenod on carbs and turbos will be pretty much the same part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tizzle Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 Go easy on them, those little pieces like to break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkiller Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 what does that round thingie on the left do? mine turns freely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravelRX Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 I've got three that are broken. /small hijack/Anyone have a good one? /end small hijack/ I agree. way fragile. What is the downside to a broken one? I've never noticed a difference in the way the car runs. Unless it's the cause of the slight surging while steady on the throttle. Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 the purge control solenoid doesnt affect the motor as much as the egr solenoid does. with the egr out, the car will sputter bad at an idle (egr valve sticks in) Anyone has a good source for these, let me know.. we always need em at work. prolly 2 or 3 a week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 what does that round thingie on the left do? mine turns freely I would guess that it's an air vent. My understanding of the purge control solenoid is that when it's activated, vacuum goes to the purge canister, and when it's deactivated, that vacuum must be released. Hence the vent. Dunno if that's true, but that's my understanding of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkiller Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 so, i should be seeing two of these then in my engine compartment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KStretch55 Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 Though I believe the Purge control and EGR solenoids function identically, they do not look identical. But they do look very similar. As I recall the vent cap, yes that's what it is, looks a bit different between the two and the ports are mounted differently. The one thing I'm not sure about is whether the feedback signal to the ECU is the same for both. Seems like a couple of years ago I substituted a Purge control solenoid for a EGR solenoid and confirmed that it was functioning, but still got a code 34 on the ECU. Any thoughts from anyone else on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill90Loyale Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/parts/100dollarpart.jpgit will be located near the thermostat housing on an spfi, trace the vacuum to the carcoal canister, the rohtehr one is the egr solenod Miles- The photo is an EGR solenoid. How to tell? EGR prong has one horiz and one vertical prong (as shown) and PCS has two horizontal prongs in the connector. Good representation of appearance, as both solenoids are very similar other than connectors. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 The one thing I'm not sure about is whether the feedback signal to the ECU is the same for both. Seems like a couple of years ago I substituted a Purge control solenoid for a EGR solenoid and confirmed that it was functioning, but still got a code 34 on the ECU. Any thoughts from anyone else on this? My 88 GL is currently throwing code 34 for the EGR sensor. Funny thing is, the solenoid is just fine... I'm not sure what to do with it. Also, if needed, I know the local junkyard here has a few more purge control solenoids. They're fresh out of EGR solenoids. If anyone needs one, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KStretch55 Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 I'm going to check the local JYs this weekend for solenoids. If I come up dry I'll be contacting you. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkiller Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 "come up dry" hah!! just tried my pap in lynnwood and the closer i got to the place the harder it was raining..anyway, no solenoids at all..so, how much are you going to want for one of those purge control ones and do you take paypal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkiller Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 "come up dry"...hah!! went to my pap in lynnwood and the closer i got the harder it was raining..anyway, no solenoids so much are you going to want for one plus shipping to 98053 and do you take paypal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KStretch55 Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 Let's see if I find any and what they soak me for to get them first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KStretch55 Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Struck out, so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 FWIW, I did some tests with the solenoids I have (EGR & PCS) and they are IDENTICAL. The only difference is the connector on it. Also, the vent thing that acts like it can unscrew; it appears to have been snapped on, so it doesn't matter how it's turned or how much - it doesn't effect anything on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 As all you may know, those babies will cost you well over $100 each if you purchase a new one. I found this out the hard way when I broke one of mine working on things. My first thought after I broke it was, "I just broke a $30 dollar part". You can imagine my surprise when the parts guy told me the real cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkiller Posted April 13, 2005 Author Share Posted April 13, 2005 finally scored of few of those purge control and egr solenoids so now i'm set, anyone want one pretty cheap let me know as i have tested them also p.s. the 35 code is gone, now i just have to get rid of the 32.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Birddog Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 i took a good purge control valve,cut the wires off near the connector,took a bad egr valve and cut the wires and cut it off near the valve.took the wires and conector from the egr valve and spliced it to the purge control valve and put it in the place for the egr valve.wasn't sure if it would work but they looked identical other than the connectors.it did make my egr code go away and i haven't noticed any thing different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KStretch55 Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 There's an easier way to change the connectors. If you look inside the connector you'll see the two flat contacts (spade connectors). Inside, almost where the wire is connected, is a small barb on the flat part. Use a scribe, a nail or something similar and push the barb down while pulling the wire out the rear of the connector. You'll end up with two wires with spade connectors on them. Do the same to the solenoid you want to swap it with, then just push the spade connectors into the connector housing and the barbs will hold them in place. No splices to cause resistance or come apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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