I do something Funny ......Solution ???

[Bubonik]

Since my owner is busy

i've decided to ask this question myself

 

my owner asked before about a 'cutout' kind of feel to me

and others said to check the fuel pump connection

it was loose {not me ! just the pump}

and seemed to get better for a while

 

but i do seem to have problems with the same thing

or something similar .....

 

when i was being driven to work this morning

i had a very bad 'cutout' feel

and than i had a bad smell ....

kind of a burnt kind of smell

or a hot kind of smell

 

it wasn't there before the cutout

 

and it seemed my owner could make it better

if he let off the gas, than gave me gas a little slower....

 

does this make any sense ???

 

i want to drive good !!

i want to make my owner happy !!!

 

please help !!

[[HTi]Johnson]

Are you a carbed,spfi, or mpfi?

I'd think it was your catylitic convertor.

[HTi]Johnson

[85Sub4WD]

If carbed I'd say it was the fuel pump/filter - I had mine do "cutouts" where I would be driving along, the engine would stop firing, then it would magically come back - ended up being a bad fuel pump - I would imagine that a FI car could give similar symptoms if the fuel system was obstructed in some way.

The fact that easy use of the throttle helps the problem makes me think this is very likely.

 

Regardless, if it hasn't had the fuel filter replaced recently, I would do so.

 

 

I don't know about the smell - perhaps the fuel pump relay has issues??

[Bubonik]

I'm SPFI

 

and have a new fuel filter

and most of a tune up

plugs, cap, rotor, wires, timing belt

my owner still has yet to do my tranny oil :|

 

soon though i hope !

 

i also seem to make a different noise.

almost like one of my cylinders isn't firing

but i'm not sure

 

and when my owner opened my hood

the funny smell was not there

but it was still in my cabin

 

does this help at all ??

[MorganM]

check the fuel pump connection

it was loose

and seemed to get better for a while

 

Is your pump connection(s) loose again?

 

Was it 'properly' fixed last time?

[Bubonik]

my owner hasn't looked yet today

 

when he put in back in last time

it seemed to fit pretty good

 

i'll have him check again after he gets off work

 

would that account for my smell ?

[KStretch55]

Also, have him check your throttle position sensor. I've found them with a "worn" spot in the range where they sit during cruise and normal driving. It sends an intermittant signal and the ECU thinks the position has changed or there is no signal. So, you get a stuttering kind of feeling.

[Bubonik]

that sounds like it may be something that he will have to look into

 

'stuttering' is exactly how it feels

[WRXBOY2003]

and when my owner opened my hood

the funny smell was not there

but it was still in my cabin

 

does this help at all ??

 

Did owner eat curry the day before.. would explain smell in cabin?!?!?!

[Bubonik]

haha

 

he didn't

but probably wanted to .....

 

my smell was definetly a car smell of some sort

hot or burnt or something

[Bubonik]

ok

 

so i dug around a little last night

seemed better after i put it all back together

 

ran fine this morning, for about 25 minutes .....

than started to do the exact same thing :{

 

so

i think i'm going to do the pump

 

but the napa part number for the ford pump

napa here {canada} says thats not there part number

but that the 'p' code is a carter part number

 

i phone around .... 200 bucks !!!!

 

i think i'll just get a used one from JY

 

but as i'm totally broke rump roast

i don't know when that will be :{

 

i'll dig around a little more tonight and see if i can find anything else

 

might an o2 sensor cause something like this ??

[Bubonik]

as an after thought,

 

would a fuel pressure regulator do something like this ?

when i had my little bronco

the pressure reg died

and the thing ran very much like this thing is running right now

 

do they ever go bad on subes ?

is it something i should look at ??

[MorganM]

Tell that parts guy to get to work. If the part number don't work then tell him you want an in-line fuel pump for a Ford F150 EFI early 90's. There should be a few to choose from and ask for the cheap one!

 

FPR is a possibility I spose. I've never had one go out so I dunno the symtoms. Your's will be located on the side of your throttle body assembly there. One fuel line comes in and the out going fuel line comes directly off the FPR. Never swaped just an FPR; might be worth your time to just swap in a whole top of a throttle body assembly and that way you'll be replacing IAC, FPR, TPS, and fuel injector all at the same time.

[Bubonik]

damn good idea !!!

 

 

125 used from wreckers

do-able ...

 

and i think i'm going to have to go down to napa and be a pain in the rump roast

no one is of help when i'm on the phone

 

any idea on engine size for the ford ?

thats the questions that keeps comming up from all the parts stores

[MorganM]

damn good idea !!!

 

 

125 used from wreckers

do-able ...

 

and i think i'm going to have to go down to napa and be a pain in the rump roast

no one is of help when i'm on the phone

 

any idea on engine size for the ford ?

thats the questions that keeps comming up from all the parts stores

 

302 V8

[Bubonik]

ok

 

i finally figured something out

i was totally retarded in the code department

and couldn't get anything

 

i got it to work !

YAY !

 

i got :

 

11 - crank angle sensor

21 - coolant temp sensor

24 - air control valve

 

so finally i have some real information to present to

the wonderful people who try to help me out

 

and it makes things much more obvious

or so i hope

 

can i assume i need to replace my distributor ?

 

it just recently got new cap-rotor-wires

in hopes to fix the funniness

only to have it slowly get worse

 

thanks again for the input

you people are keeping my car alive :}

[WoodsWagon]

Coolant temp is easy. Its right on the intake manifold, to the left and closer to the front when looking under the hood. It has one wire going into a epoxy filled plug. There is 2 of them right next to each other. One is the dash gauge, the other is the computer. 5 minute job. I forget which is which. would make the engine run happier knowing it was warmed up. Has it been hard to start?

 

Crank angle is inside distributor, under rotor. lots of them in J/Y's

[Bubonik]

starts not bad

runs --alright -- until it warms

than it starts to go haywire

 

how much for temp sensor ??

[WoodsWagon]

from 0-10 bucks.

seriously easy to do.

won't fix all your problems, but its a step in the right direscion. I'd be worried about the crank angle sensor the most, it has the biggest affect on driving.

[85Sub4WD]

given the beautiful variety of codes that the computer is spitting out at you, I think that there is a good chance that it is defective itself - a CAS error should/usually results in a "no start" condition - (if you are in a JY, pick up a spare anyway, as they are VERY expensive new or aftermarket - just grab the whole disty body, rotor and cap) - a failing sensor could theoretically cause sporatic engine failures/power loss - at any rate you would find this link useful: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

the manual is for a 1989 - but most all SPFI systems are identical (save '86 MY)

 

I would double check the specified sensors with a multimeter following the procedures in the manual before I replace anything - I have had a (two) bad computer(s) throw false codes pointing to sensors when it was the real problem

 

It has one wire going into a epoxy filled plug. There is 2 of them right next to each other. One is the dash gauge, the other is the computer. 5 minute job.

the sensor is actually the two-wire one below the thermostat housing (closest to the radiator) - the one-wire one is for the dash gague (know from conversion) - not an EASY job, because of where it is tucked, but not too hard either - be sure to bleed the cooling system after replacing it!!!

 

starts not bad

runs --alright -- until it warms

than it starts to go haywire

what do you mean haywire? surging? stalling? backfireing?

[Skip]

Please be aware that the ECU can throw "ghost codes"

 

It can do this if the engine ever stalls or fails to start.

 

Recommend you follow the procedure in the

USRM and clear the codes.

 

Drive and if the CEL illuminates.

 

Check for the new code asap.

 

I would change the F.I. coolant thermosensor myself.

It is located below the gooseneck (upper rad hose connection) as 85 Sub says.

It points horizontally toward the pass. side.

Has a wire permanently attached to it.

Is item no. 9 (circled) in the below illustration

 

They cost more than 10 GWs I'm afraid.

That would be the cost for the dash gauge unit - the wrong one. (Item no. 8 below)

Use an OEM if possible.

 

The code for the ACV (Air Control Valve) effects the idle.

Hope this helps.

 

[Bubonik]

it kind of a missing stuttering kind of feeling

when it starts it doesn't seem to get any better no matter what i do to the gas

i can stop and it will get a bit better

but as soon as i give it gas

it starts up again

 

along with it comes a clanky noise and a smell

neither of which are there when it first runs

runs ok for the first little bit

seems to do all this when it gets warm

[Bubonik]

i cleared the codes last night

and started it up again

and got no codes

but it also didn't do anything funny

 

i will take it for a small drive around the neighborhood when i get home

and see if i can get more codes to come up

 

i'll post what codes i get later

 

thanks again for everyones help