Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

OK Set the multitester to Ohmmeter. You will need to have a probe connected to each lead and first touch each probe together. You will see the needle move which indicates that you have a completed circuit.

Now if you touch one lead to one end of a wire and the other probe to the other end of a wire you should get the same result as above if the wire is a continuous circuit (continuity) and not broken.

If you set the multitester to DC Volts and touch the red (positive) lead to positive battery terminal and the black (negative) to the negative battery terminal you will see 12 volts registered on the meter. Now move away from the battery to the switch and check that you've got power to switch and then each relay and leg of wire. This will indicate if the wire is conducting electricity from the last know point where you discovered current.

Electricity is quite linear and the process is intuitive once you know the basics. Even if you don't solve this problem yourself, get friendly with multitester and follow the logic and process that finally fixes this for you. Hope this helps.

Yes and no... My friend gave me a quick walk through. He went to Canada for the week so I'm sort of in the dark. I don't know what to check really. I checked the relay and it was fine. I don't really know what to start. It's like looking for a needle in a hay stack.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it is three wire one socket should have a hot wire that can either be on with the ignition or hot all the time. Then you should have a control wire from the light switch. This should be hot when the ignition and switch are on if it's like my car. The third socket should be ground. Relays can work a couple of other ways, but I think that should be how yours works.

Why don't you just run a jumper wire to power your tailights with a fuse and switch till you have time to fix it? You could come right off the battery if need be.

Too bad somebody is not near you as this really should be a piece of cake.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would check for voltage using a test light (easier to use) or the voltmeter. I would first check for voltage at the connector I mentioned earlier in post #40.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

brus brother: I will see if I can get any readings with the voltage meter

 

cookie: If I don't get anywhere with the readings I will keep your idea in mind

 

Cougar: I printed post #40 for a guide to trace the wires.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×