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TheBrian?

 

If you run Mobil 1, you would be wasting a lot of money if you change before 6000 miles. 7500 is within reach depending on conditions. In fact, you could change only the filter every 6k and leave the oil in for 12k.

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i got 1 case of mobile 1' [12] for 24 bucks, .1 case of wix [12] 24 bucks , and had 2 bosh , got castrol gtx on sale advance auto 1.48 qt , not sure of the link or write up ,but some one please post the link on oil filters, + oil , fram's are junk wal=mart brand not any better ,

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I use whatever 10w30 is on sale in my Subaru. I change it every 3k and have not had any problems with the engine. My other cars usually see Castrol or Shell. I tend to use Bosch filters on my cars if they are available and will never ever use a Fram filter.

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sorry i will never use wal-mart brand oil or filters, do the math , 2.10 filter, 1.25 qt oil .6.25+ 2.10 = 8.35. castrol 20w50 1.48 x 5 = 7.40 mobil 1 -2.00= 8.40 , 1 nickle difference ,

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Chevron DELO 400 and purolator filters. They don't call it the million mile oil for nothin'! You can get the oil in bulk at costco in 5qt containers that perfectly fill the engine and filter on my EJ22.

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This goes back to the point that the oil companies and car manufacturers are always looking for ways to improve products and reduce waste. They aren't always out to get us...

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Chevron DELO 400 and purolator filters. They don't call it the million mile oil for nothin'! You can get the oil in bulk at costco in 5qt containers that perfectly fill the engine and filter on my EJ22.

 

Isn't that oil designed specifically for Diesel engines?

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Diesel oils are fabulous at keeping an engine clean internally, I'm using Mobil 1 T&SUV 5w-40 in both vehicles now, which is the consumer version of Delvac 1, Mobil's synthetic diesel oil.

 

I have been using German Castrol Syntec 0w-30 in the winter, but if I can get up to Canada before winter I may start using Esso XD-3 Extra 0w-30 or 0w-40, both good synthetic diesel oils.

 

For filters I like Amsoil, Hastings, Baldwin, Purolator, Napa Gold (Wix), and Mobil 1. Supertech will do in a pinch, and they're much better than Fram.

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wal-mart oil filter 2.10 ea, wal-mart super tech, 1.25 qt , castrol 20w50 at advance auto 1.48 qt , i got wix , mobile 1, bosh ,, a case of ea at 2.00 ea,

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I worked in Oil Analysis for 10 years. Brand names don't mean diddly. Some even use the same base stocks, then add there own additives. Some of the additives are beneficial and some are just marketing. The most important thing is the API rating. API keeps a pretty good eye on the industry and whether they are putting out product within specs. I recall a time during the late 70s/early 80s when API recommended that car manufacturers stop specifying 10W-40 use, because the oil producers were making so much of it so fast that they weren't making sure it was always up to specs. The producers saw a huge loss coming and snapped back in line.

 

Mixing brands or weights doesn't hurt anything, as long as you're aware that now what's in your crankcase is somewhere between the two weights you mixed. Never mix synthetic with regular. They don't always mix well.

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Valvoline Dura-Blend 10w 30, Napa Gold (Wix) filters for the 96 Legacy and 99 Trooper (Troopers are VERY touchy about the oil). I was using Fram ToughGuard filters, but the Napa Gold has more filter media, and actual metal parts inside. I believe that both cars reach running oil pressure earlier.

 

 

I can't believe that an oil thread got this far without mention of an incredible automotive oil site:

 

www.bobistheoilguy.com

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Whatever is on sale!

 

Any name brand oil meets or exceeds your cars requirements.

 

If a brand is recommended in your owners manual, it's bought and paid for!

 

I change my oil when it's dirty not when the people selling it tell me to! :headbang:

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myself,i use walmarts super-tech.during the cold seasons i use 10/40

 

during the times when it's hot(summer) i use 20/50.

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myself,i use walmarts super-tech.during the cold seasons i use 10/40

 

during the times when it's hot(summer) i use 20/50.

 

Keep in mind that 10w oils are generally only good to about 0°F. Your weather is colder than mine, and I use a 0w in the winter. 5w-40 would be a great oil for you if you like 40 weights, but there are no cheap 5w-40's that I know of.

 

20w-50 is too thick for most modern engines, with the exception of racing, extremely high ambient temperatures, and severely worn engines.

 

For most people 5w-30 is the best weight in most engines. I run thick 30 weights and 40 weights because I drive 52 miles each way to work, so my average oil temps are higher, and I my Fe and Pb wear benefit from a relatively thicker oil. Most people drive shorter distances, so their oil may never reach the 100°C temp at which the oil is rated(30, 40, 50, etc), so a thinner oil offers better flow and lubrication. Thinner oils and oils with a higher viscosity index will also improve fuel economy.

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I change my oil when it's dirty not when the people selling it tell me to! :headbang:

 

Based on what? What it looks like? :rolleyes:

 

That's as bad as changing it when the iffy lube boys tell you to.

 

Analysis is the only way to know when oil needs to be changed. Short of that, some of the oil monitors in GM's and other makes do a pretty good job of predicting oil condition based on usage.

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From my experiences oil starts to "look dirty" and burn when it starts to break down. My test: 95 Legacy 2.2L, constant driving conditions

First year of ownership, 3 oil changes: Castrol GTX, Napa Gold Filter (Wix), I would get 3000 miles on oil then it would start to darken; at 3500 the oil would start to slowly dissappear.

Second year of ownership, 3 oil changes: Castrol Syntec blend, Napa Gold Filter, I would get 4000 miles on oil before color change and 4500 miles it would start to go away.

Third year of ownership, on 1st oil change: Castrol syntec Full Syn, Napa Gold Filter. Only 2K on the oil so can't say yet, but I expect to see at least 5K before needing to change it.

 

My observation is better oil (in my case defined as higher synthetic content) lasts longer before breaking down, and when your oil starts breaking down you should start to get deposits and reduced lubrication in your engine. I don't plan on change my oil brand (except maybe Mobil 1 in my soon to be 05 Outback) or my filter brand becasue I've never had a problem, but I would assume any good API certified oil SHOULD be ok if it is changed before or just after it starts to turn brown/burn off. As for filters buy the ones that truckers, farmers, and other high mileage fleets use and you can't go wrong. And Wal-Mart does not qualify here. But I do hate Wal-Mart so I could be biased : )

 

andy

 

Based on what? What it looks like? :rolleyes:

 

That's as bad as changing it when the iffy lube boys tell you to.

 

Analysis is the only way to know when oil needs to be changed. Short of that, some of the oil monitors in GM's and other makes do a pretty good job of predicting oil condition based on usage.

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From my experiences oil starts to "look dirty" and burn when it starts to break down.

 

Oil color is no indication of breakdown or condition... Head on over to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com, the internet home for oil nuts, they'll set you straight. :) You can get an analysis done of your used oil from a variety of labs, which is really the only way to tell when an oil is going bad.

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Oil color is no indication of breakdown or condition... Head on over to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com, the internet home for oil nuts, they'll set you straight. :) You can get an analysis done of your used oil from a variety of labs, which is really the only way to tell when an oil is going bad.

 

I guess I should put my money where my mouth is so to speak and show you folks my last analysis. This is from the Jeep. 9000 miles on German Castrol 0w-30. Oil was black as night, but had a lot of life left in it.

 

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002509#000000

 

Oil is generally considered used up when TBN reaches 1.0 and/or insolubles reach 0.6.

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I guess I should put my money where my mouth is so to speak and show you folks my last analysis. This is from the Jeep. 9000 miles on German Castrol 0w-30. Oil was black as night, but had a lot of life left in it.

 

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002509#000000

 

Oil is generally considered used up when TBN reaches 1.0 and/or insolubles reach 0.6.

 

Thanks for the interesting post! Can you tell me how much the oil filter influences this type of analysis?

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I happened into Wal-mart this weekend, I don't go there often it's kind of out of my way. But, my son wanted something that was significantly cheaper there than anywhere else. Anyway, I happened to check the price on their oil. Guess I know where I'll be going for a while. Nice 5qt jugs and less than a $ per qt.!

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