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'66 awd VW


keltikrewser
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  • 2 weeks later...
Do you mean break it ?

 

Break an AWD trannny made to handle 300hp and 242Ft/Lbs of torque in a hevier car?

 

If you did go this route you would want a pre 99 tranny as the switch from the 993 to the 996 chassis ment moveing the Viscus coupleing to the front diff.

 

A bit spendy at 6k but you get the whole drive train

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-Porsche-Carrera-4-Drivetrain-Suspension-Parts_W0QQitemZ8008567799QQcategoryZ33733QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Not saying its cheap or easy, just that it's about the best for simplicty.

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Have you considered the drivetrain from a westy synchro? You can even get the pre-made adaptor plate to put the EA or EJ subaru engine to the VW transmission. Gearing might be a bit low, since it's made for a bit heavier vehical. And you'd probably have to shorten the driveshaft to the front -- I think the wheelbase is longer than a bug. But it might be less work than a full subaru drivetrain. I hear the old syncro vans were actually pretty good in the snow, aside from being high center of gravity. Full time AWD with a locking center diff I believe.

 

I've always liked the idea of a 4wd bug, and figured a subaru drivetrain was a good idea, but never got to the point of actually measuring or buying anything...

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I haven't fooled with an XT-6, but I've got a lot of experience with the SVX motors, the 4 cyl Subies, and VW's.

 

I believe that virtually all Subie motors from 1990- 2001 will bolt up to your tranny. The bolt pattern will vary (some have more or fewer), and there might be minor machining (some starters mount with bolts, some on studs), but nothing that your average backyard mechanic couldn't handle. The location of the drive pinion is the same throughout the product line.

 

Is your tranny manual or slushbox?

 

I can get you those 4 cyl measurements probably tomorrow.

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Have you considered the drivetrain from a westy synchro? You can even get the pre-made adaptor plate to put the EA or EJ subaru engine to the VW transmission. Gearing might be a bit low, since it's made for a bit heavier vehical. And you'd probably have to shorten the driveshaft to the front -- I think the wheelbase is longer than a bug. But it might be less work than a full subaru drivetrain. I hear the old syncro vans were actually pretty good in the snow, aside from being high center of gravity. Full time AWD with a locking center diff I believe.

 

I've always liked the idea of a 4wd bug, and figured a subaru drivetrain was a good idea, but never got to the point of actually measuring or buying anything...

 

By george, I think hes on to something!

post-7395-136027604194_thumb.jpg

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that's a killer idea, almost all of my VW expierience is with air cooled, i didn't even think about a westy. now if only i can find one. looked around on ebay and autotrader, looks like it would be cheaper to go with that porsche drivetrain. saw one for $30k :eek: still hoping to find a way to squeeze the motor in up front, but a syncro is definatly a solid back up plan.

 

SvRex my XT6 is a 5 spd, if you could get those dimensions for me that would rock:headbang: I've been trying to get out to Cindy's to get some measurements but they're closed on the weekends and i work at a marina and we've been swamped with boat winterizing for the past month.

 

 

thanks for the help and ideas, find anybody with a syncro for sale let me know:grin:

 

ryan

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Yeah, best way to find something like that is to find someone that dosen't know what they've got. if all else fails there is always the option of doing what the one guy i posted apperently did and have a custom cover made to tap power off the rear of the engine and get a viscous coupleing and put it in somewhere.

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i actually got this i dea when i was flipping through an old issue of sport compact magazine. a guy had built a gen 4 golf with a newer audi quattro drive train, i think it was a 2.3L or something like that, he was running about 45psi of boost and getting some where around 900 bhp :headbang::clap: if i remember right. i figured if he could make that work than i've got a shot at shoving a 2.2 into the front of my bug. i guess only time will tell, like i said until i actually get my car up to my house i might as well be designing the next spaceship 1til later

ryan

 

The car your referring to is the Dahlback golf. his setup is full custom. the only part of the car that is factory is the center tunnel. the 2.3 5cyl is destroked to a 2.1 and is stillin the original longitudinal layout. he put the radiator in the back because the engine compartment is too full.

 

Your only option at this point will have to be tube frame. if you are going to keep this a street car you can have the front axles swept back to the tranny to keep the engine from hanging out the front of the car. also keep in mind the radiator mounting location, you may not have enough room in the front. you could mount plexi quarter windows with air ducts to a radiator in the luggage area.

 

my $.02

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right now my bug has a 2.3 turbo out of a t-bird hanging out the back. the radiator has replaced the back seat, and the rear windows do have ducts in them plumbed to a custom air box that surrounds the radiatorand directs the air out the back of the car. as far as the frame goes, my plan was to replace the pan with a new one made from tubing where it bolts to the body, integrate a cage into that, and a front sub frame that connects to it for the engine, front susspension, etc. as far as my abilities go, i went to wyo tech and took there street rod/ customizing course. I learned everything from chopping tops(also on the to-do list) and custom body work, to building roll cages, and full custom frames, and pretty much everything in between. i know how to MIG and TIG weld, and have a fare amount of custom fabrication and basic machining expireince, the building of the car, frame, etc. doesn't really worry me, its just knowing how much room i have to find to make it all fit.

 

jaws, if you look further down the tread i posted dahlback's web site showing their front suspension setup, with the front axels swept forward just like you said. im glad to hear someone with some of the same ideas that i've been kicking around, it gives me a little more confidence in them.

 

thanks again guys

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Sorry this took so long.

 

OK, the dimension you asked for, center of wheels to the front of the pulley cover, is 21 1/2".

 

Here's a few more that might be useful (They were all taken off a '98 Impreza Wagon with a 2.2L):

 

Center of front wheels- front of pulley cover 21 1/2"

Center of front wheels- front of the radiator 26 1/2"

Center of front wheels- back of the motor 4" (Yep, the ENTIRE motor hangs in front of the front wheels)

Valve cover- valve cover 29"

Frame rail- frame rail 33" (You can't have any less, you'll never be able to pull the valve covers)

Center of shock tower- center of shock tower 41 3/8"

Inside of shock tower- inside of shock tower 35"

Center of wheels= center of shock tower (Shocks are dead vertical)

Top of motor - bottom of pan 23 3/4"

Top of motor- top of stock airbox 2 1/4"

Front track- 49 1/4"/ 65 3/4" (inside of tire/ outside of tire)

Wheelbase 99 3/4" (center of front hub- center of rear hub)

Top of airbox sits 22 1/2" above the center of the front hubs

 

FYI- the motor dimensions of the H-6 (from an SVX) are the same, except it is 4 3/4" longer from the center of the wheels to the front of the pulley cover.

 

Also, I've got an '89 Cabriolet sitting here. Checked some dimensions, just for the fun of it. Looks like there would be no problem dropping the entire drivetrain into the Bunny for a bit of AWD fun!!! The only issue is you'd probably have to find a new home for the radiator.

 

Good Luck!!;)

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thank you!!! thank you!!! thank you!:clap:

 

i should have some fun workin' on these dimensions. i know i've got about 18" or so to work in front of the wheels on the bug, which is only going to set them about 4" forward from the trans. i'll have to bust out the calculator and figure out some angles for the front axels to see if they'll work.

 

an awd cabrio would make a pretty cool ride too, R32? well maybe an R25 :D

i also thought an awd caddy would be pretty fun too, but with all that work i might as well just get a brat.

 

thanks again for you help with the dimensions, and taking the time to get them for me!!

 

ryan

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  • 5 weeks later...
Sorry this took so long.

Also, I've got an '89 Cabriolet sitting here. Checked some dimensions, just for the fun of it. Looks like there would be no problem dropping the entire drivetrain into the Bunny for a bit of AWD fun!!! The only issue is you'd probably have to find a new home for the radiator.

 

Good Luck!!;)

 

SvRex.... Do you think the same thing could be done with an 1990 Loyal with turbo into a Cabby?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Those poor bettleS! :-p

 

and all wheel drive subaru power bug sounds great!

 

Though I have only seen people convert Nice bugs to Jeep drive trains, It just looks horrible, and totally defeats the purpose of a light weight unibody vehicle. In the end unless your planning on rock crawling, a plain bettle with a baja kit and a all around 3 inch lift and a bolt in rear posi/big tires, does better than the jeep conversion hand's down. Cost's 20 times less, gets great mileage, and is easy to inssure. Hop up the motor some, and it rides wheelies too! :cool:

 

http://www.jipemania.com/plane/bugmil/1980baja.jpg

 

The 4x4 bug posted though looks entirely different, and 100% sweet

 

Before you undergo this Huge project of cutting welding bending, and telling of Mis-truths to the DMV/insurrance company. Find someone with a sweet Baja Bug, and drive it. Then take a Subaru hatch (close to same wheel base) with the EA-81 drive train you plan on using and drive that. The bug is weighs a couple hundred less, but it should give you a good idea of your end product.

 

Worst case senario: You have slaughtered a beetle, and a subaru! :banghead: a crime against humanity!!!!! and the god of opposing cyclendars himself!

 

Hehehe, Hope this helps!

 

Peace, Fishums

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my plan is not for an off road machine, its for a street car that may take a trip or two to the drags. not that im expecting to set any speed records, but i do think that it will be fun to blow the doors off all the freaks from my home town who think that the only car worth driving wears a bowtie (theres a GM plant there and i've heard it my whole life for not driving them):grin::burnout:

 

depending on what i can find id like to start off with a 2.2L or 1.8T, but the plan is to end up with a 300-400hp 2.5L. a carbed non turbo 1.8, never really an option. right now due to a lack of equipment and space, i'm thinking i might just toss a sube engine in the back and see how i like that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You will definately want to put some upgraded parts int hat VW tranny with 300+ HP if you think your going to get that high. There are some upgrades for that transmission to make it do just that on the CB performance website.

 

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1208

 

The differential is normally the first thing to give around 275 HP, I know :) I've done it with a VW air cooled engine. There are also some turn key, VW engines on there that just bolt in. They output some serious horsepower. The turbo one puts out 315HP! Way more than enough to make an 1800lb bug go sidesways down the drag stip :) Strip out your interior and spare tire, and get in the 10's range.

 

http://www.cbperformance.com/turbostreetengine.asp

 

Hope this helps! don't wait till your tranny explodes the differential either! I ruined my case that way :banghead:

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  • 2 months later...

just wanted to run a few things by you guys.

 

even though i haven't figured out how im going to get the engine up front of my bug yet i was doing some figuring for tire sizes and i wanted to make sure i was doing my math right. i want to run larger tires in the back of the bug so my idea was to use a lower gear which would allow for a larger tire diameter to match the front tires, heres what i came up with.

 

my xt-6 has 3.90 gears

 

if i used 225/45/16 in front

-23.9" diameter

-75.084" circ.

 

i should be able to use the following in the rear.

 

a 4.11 ratio rear diff

-any tire with a 79.127 circ.

-ie. 265/35/18, 255/40/17, or 265/40/17

 

a 4.44 ratio rear diff

-any tire with a 85.4802 circ.

-ie. 255/50/17

 

i realize that the safest route would be to just use the same size tires and gears front and rear, but where would be the fun in that:D

 

thanks

ryan

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just wanted to run a few things by you guys.

 

even though i haven't figured out how im going to get the engine up front of my bug yet i was doing some figuring for tire sizes and i wanted to make sure i was doing my math right. i want to run larger tires in the back of the bug so my idea was to use a lower gear which would allow for a larger tire diameter to match the front tires, heres what i came up with.

 

the xt-6 trans im using has 3.90 gears

 

if i used 225/45/16 in front

-23.9" diameter

-75.084" circ.

 

i should be able to use the following in the rear.

 

a 4.11 ratio rear diff

-any tire with a 79.127 circ.

-ie. 265/35/18, 255/40/17, or 265/40/17

 

a 4.44 ratio rear diff

-any tire with a 85.4802 circ.

-ie. 255/50/17

 

i realize that the safest route would be to just use the same size tires and gears front and rear, but where would be the fun in that:D

 

thanks

ryan

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