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TA-DA!

 

aalift.jpg

Couple questions...

2 rear shock mounts ...................check

2 triangular mushtash bar blocks....check

2 engine blocks...........................check

2 frount strut blocks....................check

2 other blocks.....?

 

1. Are the transmission mount lowering blocks?

 

2. Are there blocks for the other rear mounts on the mustash (crossmember) bar?

 

3. Are there blocks to go betwine the transverse link (control arm) and leading rod or betwine the leading rod mount and the body?

 

4. Are there center bearing mount lowering blocks? if not , Is the Differential angle important to U-joint life?

 

Thanks

Dave

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1. Are the transmission mount lowering blocks?

 

There the triangular pieces.

 

2. Are there blocks for the other rear mounts on the mustash (crossmember) bar?

 

Only the mounts for the rear mustache bar.

 

3. Are there blocks to go betwine the transverse link (control arm) and leading rod or betwine the leading rod mount and the body?

 

Engine cradle blocks are the big squares, and the front strut extensions.

 

4. Are there center bearing mount lowering blocks? if not , Is the Differential angle important to U-joint life?

 

There are center bearing mount lowering blocks.

 

Thanks

Dave

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Couple questions...

2 rear shock mounts ...................check

2 triangular mushtash bar blocks....check

2 engine blocks...........................check

2 frount strut blocks....................check

2 other blocks.....?

 

1. Are the transmission mount lowering blocks?

 

2. Are there blocks for the other rear mounts on the mustash (crossmember) bar?

 

3. Are there blocks to go betwine the transverse link (control arm) and leading rod or betwine the leading rod mount and the body?

 

4. Are there center bearing mount lowering blocks? if not , Is the Differential angle important to U-joint life?

 

Thanks

Dave

 

Maybe this will answer your question...

 

the control arms are attached to the engine crossmember, so yes, they are lowered too

post-3242-136027603823_thumb.jpg

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ok... mine sooo do not that the letters on them, but! I noticed that they are kinda triangularly shaped, but more kinda arrowish... Can anyone give me an idea which way goes towards the front of the car? I'mm make sure that they are that direction and if the camber still looks bad, I'll swap them. The camber on one side right now looks good, but the other side is pretty bad........ \-----| .......Maybe someone can put arrows on DrKrazy's pic of "to the front of car" and "engine is over there"

Thanks guys... Hey shady whats the word on my 5th wheels... and what about the shifter protector blocks?

be creative, there's nothing too hard...

 

also, about the pitch-stopper, maybe try a jack & wood block on the oil pan to tilt the whole thing back a bit, that's a trick someone suggested for changing the clutch (to align engine and tranny easier), I did it when I did my clutch, and didn't take the jack off until I had the pitch stopper back on. it worked fine!

 

Chux my engine fan almost touches the skid plate in front and the rad... in fact when I accelerate hard, you can hear the fan eating its self...... If I pitch it back, wont it always be hitting... my pitch rod is about 2" too short now it seems

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Chux my engine fan almost touches the skid plate in front and the rad... in fact when I accelerate hard, you can hear the fan eating its self...... If I pitch it back, wont it always be hitting... my pitch rod is about 2" too short now it seems

 

my engine fan was touching my skidplate...but the skidplate didn't reach the x-member. maybe that's part of your problem, my skidplate was like 2" too short. AND I took off the mechanical fan...

 

and if the fan is hitting the skidplate, than pitching it back will to the opposite, it'll give you more space...you're driving it without the pitch stopper attached? just giv 'er a try, pull of the skidplate, tilt the engine back some, if you really have to jack hard to get it to reach, don't go there, but if it seems to tilt relatively easy, go for it.

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ok... mine sooo do not that the letters on them, but! I noticed that they are kinda triangularly shaped, but more kinda arrowish... Can anyone give me an idea which way goes towards the front of the car? I'mm make sure that they are that direction and if the camber still looks bad, I'll swap them. The camber on one side right now looks good, but the other side is pretty bad........ \-----| .......Maybe someone can put arrows on DrKrazy's pic of "to the front of car" and "engine is over there"

Thanks guys... Hey shady whats the word on my 5th wheels... and what about the shifter protector blocks?

 

 

Chux my engine fan almost touches the skid plate in front and the rad... in fact when I accelerate hard, you can hear the fan eating its self...... If I pitch it back, wont it always be hitting... my pitch rod is about 2" too short now it seems

 

1227912279untitled.jpg

 

Does this offset diagram look close? Right and Left sides should be mirror images. right?

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Bingo on the diagram. Hey King I will get that wheel out Friday, sorry about the delay. I can get tranny guard protectors for anyone who wants them, we just usually don't install them, because we have never had a problem with the shifter link being smashed. Your call pm or email me if you want em.

 

JM

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can anyone make me a pic of the top and how its supposed to face? That other pic is very helpful firstsubaruglwagon thanks! Now I just need the top so I can get these things in correctly.

 

Well This is a guess I haven't recieved my kit yet so I could be wrong. However they should look something like this...

12279Strut_blocksB.jpg

or maybe.....

12279strut_blocks.jpg

wich ever puts the botom bolt holes closer toward the engine or wheel well

 

12279untitled2.jpg

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HEY Just got my Kit today!:banana:

 

Everything was packed nice and tight.

Im going to reread the directions and all the posts here in the hopes i can lower the problems I may incounter durring instalation.

 

I have just one sugestion for the kit thus far.

 

Instead of just R and L stamped on the strut blocks maybe stamp DR for drivers side and PAS for passenger side. This may aliviate some instaltion issues, because Right and Left are really relative to where one is standing or sitting. (Learned that from Albert and Costello)

 

Just a sugestion, not a complaint ;)

Thanks,

Dave

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Ok I'm putting on the lift as I write this.

First of many questions.

Should I dial the shocks and struts back down to the lowest setting now?

 

YES! unless you like replaceing axles, I made this mistake and burned through quite a few in just a couple months

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Must be work on your lift day...I too started lifting "Project Cheap" today. Didn't have awhole lot of time before it got dark, but probably put in about 4 somewhat lazy hours (no air tools). The rear is totally done, front strut mounts done (Mine were marked correctly, and only seemed to want to go in one way). So far everything has been fairly straight forward and bolted up. Only problem I have ran into is that the tranny blocks are extremely hard to get lined up. So far have only gotten 2 bolts into one, 3rd isn't lining up..and took me at least an hour and half just to get that far on the tranny mounts alone.. :banghead:

That's where I stopped for the night, hopefully with a fresh start tomorrow I can get it finished fairly quickly. Will be some pics in the "Project Cheap" thread.

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Ah , I better jump on that then. thanks ;)

I might buy that 3"differential lowering adapter from SRJ too.

 

Not necessary if you're staying at 4"....but I rub alot, and more lift > fender cutting! So I'll be adjusting my strut extensions back down the extra inch (is this even an option anymore?) and dropping the diff 2".

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Got mine completely finished today, looks like I might have been wrong and have an ever so slight camber issue on the front. Really not bad though, maybe the few miles I drove it didn't get it to settle enough. Everything went beautifully after I disconnect the torsion bars. Only have a few problems...

1.My steering wheel doesn't line up at all anymore, cocked like 30-45 degrees when the wheels are straight? I tried putting it on a few different ways and always ended up with the same thing...am I missing something or is that just how it's going to be?

2.Pitch Stopper is just too short now

3.No more skid plate at all....oil pump/filter is right there for a smacking (gotta fix that)

4.No more mechanical fan, will have to pick up an EA81 Electric to run in it's place.

Will be more pictures in the "Project Cheap" thread after I go take a really long shower and have at least one beer...then I will post them.

 

Got 3 thumbs up just driving it around my neighborhood for a few minutes. :headbang:

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