Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Those that rebuild EA82 and ER27's


Recommended Posts

I've done a few in the past. Right now I have a 160K motor. Had the heads machined and the valve/seats lapped. I checked each cylinder, they still look nice; distinct X-hatching. I'm wondering if it would be worth while to leave the pistons in split the block, replace the main bearings without ever removing the pistons?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What's the reason for replacing the main bearings? If you've got any knocking, I would at least plastigage all of the bearings, mains and rods. As long as you're going that far, you might want to pull the pistons just to check the condition of the pistons and rings. Just my opinion. I'd rather open it up once than go back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah I just needed the push. I recently bought the car from someone who didn't want to pay for a head gasket. So I really don't know the condition the car waqs kept in. The former owner was a preacher, he didn't strike me as a guy that would be mistreating the powertrain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

QMan, the last bearing sets (rods top & bottom, main) I bought were pretty cheap. They were OEM too. The rings however I've never bought; they always come with the pistons I get. The one place I found with rings wanted $40/cylinder.

Yeah the black one is still running great. I got Blizzak WS-50 snow tires for the trip to CO. Tore up Mount Rainier this weekend and Steven's Pass. Did real well on that black ice Sunday morning.

Sell your Red one yet? -

Oh before I forget send me the contact info on the Delta Cam torque cam grind profile for the XT6. I aslo bought three sets of those Impreza rear engine mounts. Will be making high flow intakes on all the XT's this winter.

 

Compared to the price of the bearings the rings are nothing.

 

 

Good choice. How's the black one running?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your oil pressure was decent and- If you weren't blowing smoke. I would probably keep the pistons in it. The cylinder walls have already been verified.

 

With the pan off, look at the bottom of the pistons and see if there is any serious scoring on the skirts.

 

With pistons at mid travel down the bore- have someone rock the crankshaft back and forth slightly. Stick a pencil or something down to the top of the pistons while they are rocking it and you will know if there is any slop in your rod bearings.

 

Measure the end-play in the crank. That's the fore and aft motion. This will tell you if the thrust bearing is good or not and this will give an overall indication of how the mains look.

You gotta draw the line somewhere, let your wallet and your wristwatch make up your mind. You could tear it all down, polish a good crank, align hone the case, change good bearings, hone cylinders, replace good pistons and rings, and end up with the same thing that you already have.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...