operose Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 mine looks like this but it has a 1 and a 0 for on/off and a red light when on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceyWV Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Sorry for resurrecting this, but I just stumbled onto it. Figured it would be easier than making a new topic. Andyjo, anything new to report other than your bashed oil pan? I've got a DPST switch or two lieing around, might have to go all out if I do this though. Gonna go dig around my engine bay tommorow and see what I can do, probably gonna install a tranny cooler and flush it out first though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosDiosDeVerde86 Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Sorry for resurrecting this, but I just stumbled onto it. Figured it would be easier than making a new topic.Andyjo, anything new to report other than your bashed oil pan? I've got a DPST switch or two lieing around, might have to go all out if I do this though. Gonna go dig around my engine bay tommorow and see what I can do, probably gonna install a tranny cooler and flush it out first though. but...this doesn't have anything to do with this thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceyWV Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 it dont? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted April 27, 2006 Author Share Posted April 27, 2006 really old uhh status on the oilpan.. some silicon rtv is holding the oil in... as for the switch, go for it! just be reminded that the 4eat is not a happy beast if you run it in that mode for a prolong period of time... when i was offroading (and bashed in my oilpan) i was running around w/ the 4wd on, and doing some pretty gnarly offroading, and the car started shaking really bad after a nasty hill... i let the tranny cool down and it was fine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceyWV Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 tranny cooler on the way then. thanks mang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MountainBiker Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 really old uhh status on the oilpan.. some silicon rtv is holding the oil in... as for the switch, go for it! just be reminded that the 4eat is not a happy beast if you run it in that mode for a prolong period of time... when i was offroading (and bashed in my oilpan) i was running around w/ the 4wd on, and doing some pretty gnarly offroading, and the car started shaking really bad after a nasty hill... i let the tranny cool down and it was fine... I've had mine on for hours at a time with no issues. When the transfer clutch is "locked", it isn't generating any heat. If left unlocked, it would generate a lot of heat due to constant engaging/disengaging and partial engagement. So I postulate that if you had built up heat, it was due to the torque converter, not the transfer clutch override. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joebush44 Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) Operose, all I did was intterupt the wire from pin 11 with a switch, with the switch on it runs normal (AWD), with it switched off the output is definitly 50/50 at the center diff. Hi guys, bumping an old thread here in hopes of some help. I just performed this mod and now I am getting a flashing AT OIL TEMP light any time I switch to 4wd (interrupt the wire). I cut the brown wire and wired in a switch. With it uninterupted, no lights and is normal. As soon as I flip the switch, the AT light flashes continuously. Any ideas?? '00 impreza OBS Edit: I had read somewhere that the AT light would only flash if you started the car with the wire interrupted. If you interrupt it it while driving it shouldn't flash... Edited October 25, 2014 by joebush44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newrider3 Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 The computer is looking for the resistance load it would normally see across the Duty C solenoid. If you want it to work without the warning light, you need to wire in a dummy load as described here: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/t99075-4eat-diff-lock-switch-handbrake-mod-torquemada-lite.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 The computer is looking for the resistance load it would normally see across the Duty C solenoid. If you want it to work without the warning light, you need to wire in a dummy load as described here: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/t99075-4eat-diff-lock-switch-handbrake-mod-torquemada-lite.html NICE! Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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