ericem Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 I brought my 93 legacy to the dealership in Missausauga Ontario to see why the power light was flashing, and they said they dialed up a drive solenoid problem, and torque bind. They said total cost is $1900CAN with labour and everything brand new. But i was wondering if iits better to get used parts? Any suggestions? Might i add i brought the car in 1year and 2 months ago lol. today i put on over 12000KM of driving will the car the way it is. And it now has 280000KM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Yikes - that's why people call them stealerships. Forget those guys. For that price they better replace your transmission with a rebuild (doubtful), or else they're really ripping you off. Are you experiencing torque bind symptoms? If not, then there is no real urgency. I have the same problem as you, with mostly minor torque bind during slow turns once in a while. But it will get worse, rest assured. The best thing you could try is a transmission flush, but it may or may not help. Given the issue is most likely the solenoid, probably not. What most likely needs taking care of is to remove the rear housing of the transmission, replacing the solenoid and clutch pack, and resealing the deal. A dealership should be able to do this for about a grand. A smaller shop less. Try a small shop that deals mostly with Japanese cars, get some quotes. You may also want to consider installing another used transmission - with 280k that one is probably nearing the end soon. I'd probably just drive it until things got really bad, then hunt down a reasonably priced used tranny (1990 - 1997). Have the it checked for wear in the rear housing (or do it yourself). Me, I might hunt down a used solenoid and test it, then pull my rear housing off myself and replace it. But that doesn't seem very enticing right now. Good luck I brought my 93 legacy to the dealership in Missausauga Ontario to see why the power light was flashing, and they said they dialed up a drive solenoid problem, and torque bind. They said total cost is $1900CAN with labour and everything brand new. But i was wondering if iits better to get used parts? Any suggestions? Might i add i brought the car in 1year and 2 months ago lol. today i put on over 12000KM of driving will the car the way it is. And it now has 280000KM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 20, 2006 Author Share Posted January 20, 2006 So u think the tranny is near the end. Well that sucks, how do i kno if there is alot of wear in my tranny. It runs smooth, and shift no problems, and its a auto tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Change the tranny fluid....that's the first thing I'd do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 21, 2006 Author Share Posted January 21, 2006 Ya but that over $100 just to do that, and most likely it wont do anything. I was wondering, am i going to need a new rear differential and a whole tranny. ANd that its. Is the transfer case in the tranny and will a tranny from a 96 legacy work perfectly? or better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 What kind of fluid are you putting in to cost over $100????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 i had a tranny flush for 100.00 US and it solved the problem. i would strongly suggest a tranny flush, as most of the time it fixes the problem. Now its not clear from your post, did they get a trouble code ofr a solenoid failure? if they did a tranny flush is not going to fix the problem. The only time you get a code for a solenoid failure is when it fails. i would go to an independet shop and let them look at it. you can replace the solenoid . What condition is the tranny fluid in, and how does the car shift otherwise? nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 21, 2006 Author Share Posted January 21, 2006 It runs real smooth, and shift no problems. And at 100k we changed the disc on the 4th gear. but we havent chnaged the fluid for over 180k lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 21, 2006 Author Share Posted January 21, 2006 Ya i did put the fwd fuse in and all four wheels spin in snow. So its a dead solenoid. U think if i get a new tranny i can install it myself in the garage? Is it a simple task. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 21, 2006 Author Share Posted January 21, 2006 Ok i read in another thread that it could be the clutch sticking because of a dirty ATF. SO if i change the fluid might that help. Because before the problem, if would delay engaging into 4wd when in deep snow. but how would i kno for sure if the drive solenoid is dead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 There is an under the hood test with a multimeter. If you look for the thread on manually controlling the AWD deep in there it tells you how to test it. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 22, 2006 Author Share Posted January 22, 2006 Seems like a dead solenoid, and im going to need a new clutch pack, so im going with a used tranny with 50k for $300CAN with 3 month warrenty. O and does anyone know what transmission will fix the the problem so it doesnt happen again. I have a 2.2 engine in it now, so can any tranny over '97 do the trick, and do i need a new rear differential? If so can i get a limited-slip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 22, 2006 Share Posted January 22, 2006 They fixed the problem in 1997 1/2, so i would go with a 98 if thats possible. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 22, 2006 Author Share Posted January 22, 2006 O, so the TCU with my 93 leg should work with the 98 tranny? correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 22, 2006 Share Posted January 22, 2006 i have no idea, so im not going to say yes or no. im sure somone here would know better then i would. i dont even know if it will physically mount up. Why not look for a used tranny of the same year with a guarentee. Seems to me you got pleanty of life out of the original tranny. Nothing lasts for ever, and eventually a major part will need replacing. If it was me i would look for a used tranny or get the price of a rebuild for the same year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasinwa Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 Ya i did put the fwd fuse in and all four wheels spin in snow. So its a dead solenoid. U think if i get a new tranny i can install it myself in the garage? Is it a simple task. Hmmm...I noticed a small fuse box in the 93 Legacy I just bought....opened it and nothing is in there that I can see. Is there supposed to be something in there easily enough visible? Since I don't have a manual (someone is sending me one which I'll get in a few days), I was wondering. Does that mean I am not in AWD mode? What does the FWD label mean? Thx...Jeff <edit> searched and found enough info....should not be a fuse it there for AWD so that's good! couldn't delete my post.... </edit> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 Hmmm...I noticed a small fuse box in the 93 Legacy I just bought....opened it and nothing is in there that I can see. Is there supposed to be something in there easily enough visible? Since I don't have a manual (someone is sending me one which I'll get in a few days), I was wondering. Does that mean I am not in AWD mode? What does the FWD label mean? Thx...Jeff <edit> searched and found enough info....should not be a fuse it there for AWD so that's good! couldn't delete my post.... </edit> are you talking the individual fuse holder on the passenger side of the car towards the firewall? nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasinwa Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 are you talking the individual fuse holder on the passenger side of the car towards the firewall? nipper yes, I am.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 That is the FWD Fuse. When you put a spare fuse in that holder the FWD light will come on on the dash. You use this fuse when you have the spare tire on thr car, or the car is going to be towed by the rear wheels (which is no longer revomended, a flat bed is). The fuse energizes the Duty C solenoid, which in turn kills the AWD completly. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FSRBIKER Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 They fixed the problem in 1997 1/2, so i would go with a 98 if thats possible. nipper Fixed the Torque bind issue? If so anyone know what month they started building them that had the fix or with what serial number? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Fixed the Torque bind issue? If so anyone know what month they started building them that had the fix or with what serial number? well they fixed the design flaw. i dont really trust small mfg's date lines, as they can get blurred. i would go for a 1998 to be safe. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FSRBIKER Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 I hear you, I have a 97 Legacy Outback now that's why I asked. What was Subaru's fix for the design flaw? So what's the procedure for prevention, flush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 I hear you, I have a 97 Legacy Outback now that's why I asked. What was Subaru's fix for the design flaw? So what's the procedure for prevention, flush? flush to try to cure it, along with the usual tires stuff (inflation, all the same size etc). http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm Also these units do wear with age, especially if they have never had regular flushings. If it is a lite TB flushing should fix it, but the higher the mileage, there is a chance of it coming back again then its repair time. My flush lasted a year, then the duty c failed and it was all over. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FSRBIKER Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Yea I am looking for preventative maintenance...the link you provided says this happens on the auto tranny, I have a 5 speed. flush to try to cure it, along with the usual tires stuff (inflation, all the same size etc). http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm Also these units do wear with age, especially if they have never had regular flushings. If it is a lite TB flushing should fix it, but the higher the mileage, there is a chance of it coming back again then its repair time. My flush lasted a year, then the duty c failed and it was all over. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 Yea I am looking for preventative maintenance...the link you provided says this happens on the auto tranny, I have a 5 speed. on the 5 speed there is nothing you can do at all. You dont have a clutch pack, you dont have solenoid. You must keep an eye on your tires and never drive on a flat. Once TB shows up on a manual, its over. The 5 speed Viscous coupling is sealed, so there is nothing to service. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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