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:lol:My whole problem started with a broken crankshaft woodruff key, after doing some research i found all my problems and got them all fixed. New pulley and key. After installing everything, and torqueing the crankshaft bolt down i started the car and after about 5-10 trys nothing. It would try, but not turn over. So, i thought that since it was my first time taking off the timing belt i my have put it back wrong. So taking everthing apart again, i found that the cranksaft sprocket mark was off by a 1/4 inch or so, but i could not move it. So i thought why not place the bolt back in and turn the crankshaft using that, wow that works. now to the problem. i got the timing bet on but the bolt is stuck in the crankshaft. i think i did not clean off all the loctite. What do i do now, i cannot get the bolt out. the belt just rotates with the wrench. is there a way of stopping the belt from moving, may be oil on the bolt? I need some help, i dont want to have to get it towed to a shop.

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Lots of ways...all take a little effort.

 

You can make a fixture out of a broken spark plug, all-thread, flat washers and a couple of nuts. Turn slowly until contact is made.

 

You can hydraulic a cylinder with 80-90 gear oil. Fill it with the piston down, put the plug back in and turn SLOWLY. Then after the bolt is out you have to wick the oil out by rolling up paper towels until you get it all out through the spark plug hole.

 

There may be accessory drives that can be restrained but i am not knowlegeable enough on Subarus to advise you.

 

Ted

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I'm not sure I understand you problem.

1) Auto or manual transmission?

2) Since you troqued the crankshaft pulley bolt upon installation you must have found a way to stop the crank from turning. What prevents you from using the same technique to take it off?

With man trans some simply put the trans in fifth and put the hand brake or have someone step on the brakes. You can also insert a bar of some sort thru an opening on top of the bell housing (usually closed by a rubber cap) thus blocking the flywheel.

You can also use a chain wrench (while protecting the crankshaft pulley with a piece of an old drive belt) to hold the pulley still. that's the method I used when I replaced the timing belt on my car.

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Its a manual transmission.

Well the pulley is off, and it is bolted onto the crankshaft with out the pulley, i needed to us it to move the timing belt mark to the right position, and now its stuck. there may be a little red loctite on it, so thats why its stuck. When i turn the bolt, it turns the timing belt. making it so i can not untorque the bolt.

I think heating it up may looses, i have places some penetrating oil on it and am letting it soak in.

cyarmak

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Sounds like you turned the bolt in further than it was with both pulleys in place. It's possible the threads don't go that deep, and you've damaged the threads at the end of the bolt. Heat should help, preferrably on the crankshaft. You may need to replace the oil seals if you get it hot enough. Did you put fresh threadlocker on when you put it in? If it's old locktite it shouldn't be that significant. You need a really big wrench and a six-point socket, put the car in 5th and set the brakes, the crank shouldn't turn. Good luck!

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The way I've loosened the crank bolt many times is with a shallow 7/8" six point socket, an 18" craftsman breaker bar and a 3lb rubber hammer.

Roll it until you feel compression and then whack away. It's a poor mans' impact wrench. I've only had to lock the motor a few times.

Unless you used fresh loctite I bet this will work.

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The way I've loosened the crank bolt many times is with a shallow 7/8" six point socket, an 18" craftsman breaker bar and a 3lb rubber hammer.

Roll it until you feel compression and then whack away. It's a poor mans' impact wrench. I've only had to lock the motor a few times.

Unless you used fresh loctite I bet this will work.

 

I would mention here that the bolts on soobs are all metric to my knowledge, and it's probably best to use the metric sockets to avoid stripping the bolts!:eek:

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I would mention here that the bolts on soobs are all metric to my knowledge, and it's probably best to use the metric sockets to avoid stripping the bolts!:eek:
Out of curiosity, I converted the usual English/SAE (1/16" increment) sizes to metric. Using 25.4mm/inch and no rounding, I got:

 

3/8" = 9.5250mm

7/16" = 11.1125mm

1/2" = 12.7000mm

9/16" = 14.2875mm

5/8" = 15.8750mm

11/16" = 17.4625mm

3/4" = 19.0500mm <<<<<

13/16" = 20.6375mm

7/8" = 22.2250mm

15/16" = 23.8125mm

 

It appears that 3/4" is the only one that is almost exactly equivalent to a standard metric size (19mm), although a couple of the other English sizes might work on metric boltheads (depending on tolerances, and perhaps with the less-critical nature if using a 6-point as opposed to a 12-point socket).

 

I'm not suggesting that incorrect tools be used. In an emergency some substitutes might be considered, and certainly 3/4" and 19mm seem fairly interchangeable.

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I'm not suggesting that incorrect tools be used. In an emergency some substitutes might be considered, and certainly 3/4" and 19mm seem fairly interchangeable.

 

You are right. 3/4" makes a perfect substitute for 19mm. I have a bunch of old SAE sockets that I never use anymore except for 3/4 which I use (with a breaker bar) to remove and replace the wheel nuts.

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