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Hooking up 250-300WHP (or, "Project Sleeper")


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A friend of mine out here in Iowa City is a fellow Subaru nut (new gen stuff), and has pointed out that an old gen wagon could, with a bit of work, be one heck of a sleeper.

 

("bit of work" involves a turbo EJ20 or such, with a full standalone ECU)

 

I'm pondering this, and had some thoughts/questions on making it work.

 

To start with, I'd get a clean GL or GL-10, dual range.

 

Fitting the motor would be a bit of a challenge, most likely, but I'm not too concerned about it - I know people who can fabricate things, and a good challenge is always fun. Controlling it wouldn't be a problem, I'd be running with a standalone & full set of gauges.

 

Getting power to the ground will be a bit tougher. 250-300HP through an open front differential... won't work very well.

 

First question: When do the dual range transmissions break? They seem to be pretty strong, but I don't know how much power they've been tested to. Will they hold 250-300HP without shattering pieces?

 

Putting the power to the ground through 4WD would be great, except for the whole "dry pavement" thing. I was thinking of getting a custom driveshaft built with a viscous coupling in it, similar to how I believe the Honda CRV & such handle AWD. That, plus a limited slip in the rear, and I believe I should be able to hook up all the power, fast, and go like stink off the line.

 

Finish with some suspension work, nice brake pads, and some window tint for one heck of an old Subaru.

 

Am I nuts, or does this stand a chance of working? I'd be budgeting around $5000-$7000 for the entire project (including the clean base car).

 

-=Russ=-

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heh, I dont really know about 250 hp at the wheels. I messed my DR up with a stock EA82 carb'd engine. I blew two teeth off the 4lo gear. It will work, its just a matter of how long that tranny lasts.

 

Superman had x-ray vision but he's dead so who knows how long a DR will last. WJM is the guy to talk to about that

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you can always drive it until the DR blows then upgrade to an EJ trans that was built for the EJ engine.

 

WJM showed the LSD front center diff of the newer generation EJ's will swap into the EA series trans. not sure if it's worth the work if the trans won't hold though.

 

and this has been done before...check the retrofitting forum for suberdave, super nice ride.

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As a fellow modifier, I would also like to know the limits of the d/r 5 spd. Yeah, it was only built for an ea82, but so was the differential. And that same diff in nissans puts up with a lot bigger engines being swapped in. Anyone have a rating that they just kept blowing gears beyond? As long as you aren't doing clutch dumps, it should hold a fair bit.

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Oh, i'd also like to point out that this is a daily swap for our mates overseas in Australia. If your really thinkin of going through with this, do a search on Google for the Backyard Boys Subaru board. Should be able to find alot of info there. Im serious about the brakes. I'd be a good idea to do the 5spd swap, xt6 brakes should be fine, much better than EA82 brakes by far... and i believe you are able to use some legacy or impreza parts on the suspension, which opens the window to plenty of strut/spring options.

 

SubaruTex is the guy to talk to about that.

 

-Brian

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ok first off. dont even start till you have the engine and trans. the EJ trans are much stronger than the EA trans, and they still brake when not drivin right.

 

look around and find a front clip (with rear susp. and diff) or a recked WRX. that way you have everything you need.

 

i would not go with a stand alone. i would use the stock ECU. much easer and you know it works.

 

the engine, trans. and diff just about bolt right up (make sure you start with a turbo car or find a turbo cross member)

 

for the rear diff you will need to shorten the drive shaft 55mm and you will need to buy custom converson races to adapt the WRX inner joint to the GL shaft. these cost me $6 ea.

 

the trans you will need to find a 88ish XT6 3pc cross member use the front and rear from the XT6 and the center from the WRX, this way everything bolts up and looks stock.

 

the shifter linkage needs to be shortened, one of the only parts that need to be welded.

 

the WRX raidator will fit, just needs a little triming on the core support. but not much and some custom lower mounts. (dont try to use the GL rad)

 

now use the front suspension from the WRX. struts, knuckles, hubs (now you have 5 lug) lower ball joint, tierod ends, and BRAKES, (larger rotors cross drilled if wanted, and two pot calipers)

 

look around and find some XT6 rear hubs and stuff for the rear 5 lug stuff.

 

the wireing is the hardest part, but with a little patiance you can do it. just find a wiring diagram and dont drink anything that will make it harder. follow it like a road map and its not to hard.

 

Now go and play!!!

 

any more ?'s send me a PM or post it here.

 

-=Suberdave=-

http://www.suberdave.com

 

tn_GLWRXT063.jpg

 

tn_GLWRXT066.jpg

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Wow. Thanks!

 

A few questions:

 

Custom conversion races? I'm not sure I understand what those are.

 

Is there any way at all to get a front mount intercooler wedged in there? I'm not a big fan of the hood scoop on the old gens.

 

For the dash gauges, everything more or less wired up the same?

 

And, the real question, how does it drive? I'm guessing a lot of people do a double take when an old gen Subaru wagon goes like a bat. How's the handling?

 

-=Russ=-

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these are the races

tn_races.jpg

they are used to connect the WRX inner cups to the GL shaft they go insid the Green cup

tn_GLWRXshaft.jpg

 

good luck on a FMIC, could be done but would not be easy. not a lot of room up there.

 

i got all the dash gauges to work except the tach, had to use an autometer. O-Darn! and i installed a Boost guage, A/F ratio gauge, and a water temp gauge.

 

tn_GLWRXT069.jpg

 

and most importantly... it drives AWESOME!!!! i love it, a GL that can get out of its own way... could deffently use some suspension upgrades, a bit more body role than i would like. even with XT6 sway bar up front and GL-10 wagon bar in rear.

 

-=Suberdave=-

http://www.suberdave.com

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