Another Head Gasket!?!

[Equalizer]

I have a 98 Leg OB that replaced my 97 that has a blown head gasket. About 2wks ago w/had zero weather, coldest day this winter. Prior to that day, I checked my coolent to see if it had the right concentration. At least 50%= -10F. So OK. I drove on hwy for half an hour, then on windy roads for onther 15, THEN I noticed the temp guage toped out hot as it would show!!! I pulled off. Idling would bring down temp, so I turned it off. BTW, the heater was blowing air so hot, that it would burn your hand if you left it against the dash vent for too long. However, the radiator was cool:confused: . The overflow was filled up and sprayed across the engine. The radiator looked full. So I suspected a vapor lock due to blown gasket. Since then, I've babied it, and have to replace some fluid now and then, but its only overheated once as I can tell since then. Oh, BTW, oil on the antifreeze in the overflow tank. Someone told me its a soft plug leaking. I don't think so, but is this possible?

 

Have I blown another head gasket?

 

If so, the labor is $500-600 at a small shop that speciallizes in Subies, NOT a dealership. Is this a DIYS job, timing belt replacement included, for someone who has changed clutches, Or should I let a shop do it?

 

Thanks,

eq

[tzrider]

Regarding your DIY question, I just had the head gasket replaced in my '97 Outback (2.5l, 191k mi) by a shop that specializes in Subarus. They pulled the engine (and several shops that I talked to said they would pull the engine as well) to best access the heads. The heads were throughly checked for damage and warping and then resurfaced. Besides replacing the head gasket, they replaced the valve cover seals, separator plate, and cam seals. Labor accounted for the majority of this $1200 job...it sucked to pay that much but I left the shop feeling confident that the engine was tip top. My only regret is that I didn't bring my car to this shop in the first place.

 

Good luck!

[Distance Commuter]

A cold radiator with the rest of the system hot would usually indicate the thermostat is stuck closed - blocking coolant flow to the radiator. I think you definitely want to change the thermostat ASAP. If it sticks again before or after the head gasket job, it will overheat again, potentially blowing out another head gasket set.

 

I'm not saying your current head gaskets are OK - with oil in the coolant, it looks like you need that job done.

[MDW25gt]

A cold radiator with the rest of the system hot would usually indicate the thermostat is stuck closed - blocking coolant flow to the radiator. I think you definitely want to change the thermostat ASAP. If it sticks again before or after the head gasket job, it will overheat again, potentially blowing out another head gasket set.

 

I'm not saying your current head gaskets are OK - with oil in the coolant, it looks like you need that job done.

 

Agree. Check the thermostat with a new Subaru unit.

[xrturbo]

i have done a couple and pulling the motor is deffinately the best route. i would also agree about the thermostat point.

[nipper]

I have a 98 Leg OB that replaced my 97 that has a blown head gasket. About 2wks ago w/had zero weather, coldest day this winter. Prior to that day, I checked my coolent to see if it had the right concentration. At least 50%= -10F. So OK. I drove on hwy for half an hour, then on windy roads for onther 15, THEN I noticed the temp guage toped out hot as it would show!!! I pulled off. Idling would bring down temp, so I turned it off. BTW, the heater was blowing air so hot, that it would burn your hand if you left it against the dash vent for too long. However, the radiator was cool:confused: . The overflow was filled up and sprayed across the engine. The radiator looked full. So I suspected a vapor lock due to blown gasket. Since then, I've babied it, and have to replace some fluid now and then, but its only overheated once as I can tell since then. Oh, BTW, oil on the antifreeze in the overflow tank. Someone told me its a soft plug leaking. I don't think so, but is this possible?

 

Have I blown another head gasket?

 

If so, the labor is $500-600 at a small shop that speciallizes in Subies, NOT a dealership. Is this a DIYS job, timing belt replacement included, for someone who has changed clutches, Or should I let a shop do it?

 

Thanks,

eq

 

A HUGE sign of a blown HG is no heat. i agreee with the failed thermostat. Also a HG wont normally blow a radiator hose. now its POSSIBLE that a failed thermostat can cause a HG to blow from over heating.

 

 

nipper

[Equalizer]

A HUGE sign of a blown HG is no heat. i agreee with the failed thermostat. Also a HG wont normally blow a radiator hose. now its POSSIBLE that a failed thermostat can cause a HG to blow from over heating.

 

 

nipper

 

Here's a theory. Note that this is Not a "conspiracy theory" of alien abduction of said Subaru:eek: , albeit stranger things have happened.

Tell me if this has any validity.

 

The extreme temp that morning, ie. zero F or possibly slightly less, combined with the placement of the thermostat ("t" or "stat" for now on) exposed to wind under car may have cause the coolent to freeze, hence stopping flow. The temp combined w/wind on hwy. kept the engine cool until slowing on the back roads. At such time the engine overheats and blows an already weak and whimpy gasket. (note: one of the only whimpy parts on a Subru.)

BTW, the night before, the heater was extra hot too, but the guage said normal. It was the first time that my temp adjustment would go ALL THE WAY to the right w/out the typical resistance at the end. I have no idea why.

 

That said, the Subi shop guy said the weather had Nothing to do w/the break down. It was a coincidence. What do you guys think?

 

And again. I've got the ability to pull the engine, but would have to have someone else resurface the heads and do a presure check on the heads if needed.

PRO: I usually do work on my own car, although it takes forever, because I've run into so much messed up sloppy jobs at the dealerships. I also save some money. I'm not sure about this shop, but they have a decent reputation. Old maxim usually applies w/me, "If you want it done right, do it yourself."

CONS: I've got no experience doing this job, or engine work. Cylinder pressure checks, U-joints, high wear part replacement, and a couple of clutch replacements are the extent of my experience on this type car. I've got space in only a one car garage.

 

What do you think?

[nipper]

*puts on detective hat and blows bubles out of his Sherlok Homes pipe*

 

Extreeme weather changes can cause weakened parts to fail. You have coolant blow out plugs in the block. If it did freeze, and thats a big if, bad bad person for not checking the mix.A plug would have (we hope) started leaking. Sudden cold to sudden hot will do damage on almost anything. Wind only has an affect animals, not so much on mechanical things (unless its a 70mph gale).

You dont give mileage on the car . If its over 100K its just one of those things.

Another possability is that the already bad hose finally blew and took the HG with it

[Equalizer]

*puts on detective hat and blows bubles out of his Sherlok Homes pipe*

 

Extreeme weather changes can cause weakened parts to fail. You have coolant blow out plugs in the block. If it did freeze, and thats a big if, bad bad person for not checking the mix.A plug would have (we hope) started leaking. Sudden cold to sudden hot will do damage on almost anything. Wind only has an affect animals, not so much on mechanical things (unless its a 70mph gale).

You dont give mileage on the car . If its over 100K its just one of those things.

Another possability is that the already bad hose finally blew and took the HG with it

 

1. 3rd sentence in first post. At least 50% mix on my test strip. The chart indicated safe to -10F.

2. On the hwy. that morning there was over a 70mph gale. I understand wind chill factor on animals, but not inatimate objects.

3. Mileage is 130,000mi. Mostly hwy.

4. My hoses feel/look OK, but I'm wondering if a piece of HG broke loose, or sludge build up could have caused blockage to a passage in the radiator, or thermostat.?.... Thanks Nipper!

 

BTW, There is a thread I read a while back posted by the "the Other Skip" w/his pics and notes on his DIYS job on a common head gasket job. Its blocked. Does anyone have it saved and could repost it here?

 

PS: Would using one of those head gasket sealant additives to the coolant make a tough head gasket replacement much tougher? Since it isn't reeeeel baaad just yet, I was wanting to put it off until I can come up w/the big bucks to do it right, if the additive doesn't add trouble.

 

Thanks!

[nipper]

1. 3rd sentence in first post. At least 50% mix on my test strip. The chart indicated safe to -10F.

2. On the hwy. that morning there was over a 70mph gale. I understand wind chill factor on animals, but not inatimate objects.

3. Mileage is 130,000mi. Mostly hwy.

4. My hoses feel/look OK, but I'm wondering if a piece of HG broke loose, or sludge build up could have caused blockage to a passage in the radiator, or thermostat.?.... Thanks Nipper!

 

BTW, There is a thread I read a while back posted by the "the Other Skip" w/his pics and notes on his DIYS job on a common head gasket job. Its blocked. Does anyone have it saved and could repost it here?

 

PS: Would using one of those head gasket sealant additives to the coolant make a tough head gasket replacement much tougher? Since it isn't reeeeel baaad just yet, I was wanting to put it off until I can come up w/the big bucks to do it right, if the additive doesn't add trouble.

 

Thanks!

 

2- Wind chill has to with the evaporation of water on a animals flesh, hence why it doest afect machines. Weather extreems can be very hard on rubber parts, especially if you dont let the car warm up.

 

3- Anything over 120K, Head gaskets can go bad on any aluminum engine.

 

4- HG are copper. Things dont break off. Water coolant passages are much larger then oil galleys, so i doubt thats what happened.

 

HG sealant wont make the job any harder. The aditive is just stop-leak.

 

nipper

[Equalizer]

Hi Nipper,

 

Great info!

 

I don't ever let my car warm up at idle, because I read that its harder on the little Al block 4 cylinders as it takes a while for oil to get to the top end. So, I normally just take off as soon as it starts then not drive it hard. Its mostly downhill and level until warm up anyhow. But, since the HG problem wouldn't involve a rubber part (?) I'm guessing that the cold may not have been the culprit, yet like you said, weak parts are more suseptable to break in extreme cold, or something like that.

 

NOW I know why wind chill affects critters and not subers.

 

I was told by the garage, that they only use the 4 layer HGs. Do you know if these are copper too?

 

Lastly, Do you recommend the factory recommended stop leak/ conditioner over any others?

 

Thanks,

 

eq

[cookie]

If you have a 98 phase 1 the sealer won't do you any good. you have combustion gasses forcing thier way at very high pressure into the coolant. How is a sealer going to seal?

The sealer is for the external leaks developed by the phase 2 engine. In this type of leak you have a very slight leak to the outside going from maybe 10 PSI to ambient pressure. the sealer goes through the gap on it's way out and builds up until it seals.

You can limp a phase 1 by with pulling the thermostat but you lose heat. I am not sure how long this can last but some folks have reported getting by months on one of these. I don't think I'd care to try it in an Alaska winter from what some of the folks say, but it works here in CA.