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Trick to "mating" block and trans.


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Sorry no sex questions here!

 

I'm trying to re install my engine. I'm putting a ej22 into my outback MT5. I switched the flywheel and clutch set up to the new engine ( less than 1000 miles when the engine blew). I'm using a motor hoist and having a hard time making the final connection. It feels like the motor is on the tail of the tranny, but I can't get the motor clse enough to the body of the trans. I've tried rocking the front pulley and rocking the wheels to get the final push. The top gets close, or the bottom gets close, but can't manage to get them close togather. Is the fit real close when it's right or should I get it close or draw it in with the bolts. I'm doing this by myself, so any advice that would work will be helpful.

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Did you use a clutch alignment tool? If the clutch isn't aligned, you won't get the nose of the input shaft into the pilot bearing.

 

You can also try putting the trans in gear and rotating one of the wheels to line up the splines, but if the clutch isn't aligned, that won't help.

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I used an alignment tool to match the clutch and flywheel.

 

What I'm hearing is that you just keep trying until the two parts get close enough to clamp or secure?......Nothing more sure?, I don't want to wreck the splines on the shaft.

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a few tricks.

1 use a tape measure to square top to bottom and side to side.

2 try extra long bolts to pull it in.

3 turn the crakshaft once you have it as close as possible to catch the spline.

4 If you have one you can set up to depress the clutch while pulling in do that while tunring the engine by the crank nut.

5 If all that fails you may not have the clutch aligned properly. I know you used the tool but you can still be off. I have also seen the wrong clutch being installed and the disc backwards. Did you test fit everything before installation?

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Alignment of "tilt" of the engine to match the "tilt" of the transmission is key here. When you put the floor jack on the transmission and raise it up, it tilts the transmission so that the top of it is further back than the bottom. To add to the problem, the engine is going to balance on the chain hoist with a slightly crank pulley down position....which makes the bottom of the engine further back than the top.

 

Try this: Find a long bolt with a couple big washers and a nut to fit the bolt, and put the bolt with the washers through the chain on the hoist to form a small "loop" in the chain that you can hook up to the hook, and when you lift the engine it will balance in a plane parallel to the transmission. It's going to be a trial and error deal finding the spot in the chain to put the bolt to form the loop to get it right, but you'll get it.

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DO NOT USE THE BOLTS TO DRAW THEM TOGETHER.

 

You can do MAJOR damage to the transmission, clutch and pressure plate doing this.

 

Make sure you arent hitting the motor mount studs on the crossmember. if you are the trans isnt jacked up enough.

 

Get the bottom studs aligned with the holes in the tranny and then step to each side of the car and look to see that the bellhousings are EXACTLY parallel to each other. If they aren't correct the easiest thing (probably the engine) such that the angle is more condusive. Most of the time when you are fighting this tooth and nail its because the chain on the hoist isnt set at the proper angle for the engine to hang at that proper slant. its magic when it goes together and you get better every time you try.

 

Be sure to use a good clutch alignment tool and that you can EASILY get the alignment tool in after you torque the pressure plate.

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I'd put a dab of grease on the inside of the pilot bearing, and lightly--I mean lightly grease the splines on the input shaft of the transmission. Maybe even just a dab on the locating dowel pins as well. If you get it closed up to about 1/4 inch all the way around, I don't think you'll do much harm to the components by installing the engine to transmission bolts and tightening them up to the point of putting just a little tension in them. Then you can wrestle it that last 1/4 inch and when it finally fits you can exclaim HOME! just like the guys that lay drainage pipe on the construction site.:banana:

 

It's definitely not an easy job by yourself. IF you've removed the pitching stopper (the dog bone on the rear of the engine that mounts to the firewall) I'd reinstall it but don't tighten it. Let it help to stabilize the transmission, otherwise the transmission is going to want to lay over and flop about side to side.

 

Cussing gets you nowhere. Trust me on that one!

 

Too bad Subaru didn't design the cars with the thought of installing the engine from beneath like the VWs and Porsches.

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