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ok, i've wanted to do this for a while.

we always see the pretty side of everyone's cars. now it's time to see the dark and ugly side of our rides. submit rustholes, scratches, dents, chips, yellow headlights; anything that while you're showing off your car cruising around, you hope to god no one sees...feel free to tell the story behind it too.

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RF fender. Paint chip with silicone seal to prevent further chipping

 

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Fogged headlight with sand inside houseing.

 

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Right side rear bumper. Road Rage incident. Somehow a foot got embedded into the paint too...heh heh

 

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RR 1/4 Panel. The most common place for rust. That paint actually chipped off when i took the picture.

 

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Panoramic shot of my front bumper....approach angles.

 

 

 

maybe this would be better off in the Offroad Section....eh, move it if you wish.

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Now here's a thread I can relate to! Don't have any readily available pics of my Outback's many flaws, but here's my '93 Legacy wagon. In addition to the usual rust spot, you might also notice the dent just in front of the taillight (from a hit-and-run in an elementary school parking lot, no less) that I popped back out with my hand. Still a little white paint visible from the perpetrator's car, too.

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Hey -- you could be driving my car! While we're on the subject, does anyone have any solution short of replacement, to take care of the headlamp lens fogging on these mid-90's vehicles? There's gotta be some kind of polish that would take out the fogging, I would think.

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some+one posted a solution last year. it involved poliishing with something and then using clear shelac(?) to seal it. try searching headlights?

 

 

Hey -- you could be driving my car! While we're on the subject, does anyone have any solution short of replacement, to take care of the headlamp lens fogging on these mid-90's vehicles? There's gotta be some kind of polish that would take out the fogging, I would think.
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I think we need to stop posting pictures, they take up too much band width (ever wonder why the site goes down every once in awhile, we exceed our band width and have to buy more). If you could just post links to the pictures, that would help.

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i don't have any real recent pics of my legacys cancer spots.just look at the pics and imagine them about twice as bad..the bottom edge of my tail gate is really bad,i'll snap a pic tomorrow.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6069&cat=669

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=10931&cat=669

 

*someone once told me that if you use toothpaste,it'll clean the plastic lens up real nice..*

 

updated pics-http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=10932&cat=669

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=10933&cat=669

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=10934&cat=669

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does anyone have any solution short of replacement, to take care of the headlamp lens fogging on these mid-90's vehicles?

 

Yes Wayne, try a search--Josh (Legacy 777) did a very thorough writeup on lens cleaning a while back.

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I'll second Josh's write-up... I followed it loosely, using 600 grit wet, then 1000 wet, finishing with 2000 wet. Used some toothpaste I received free as a promotion to polish them up real good (I ought to send a letter to the company letting them know it's great for a polish, but I've got no clue how it is for a toothpaste :cool:). Wife had some clear protectant spray she used on the centerpieces for our wedding reception left over, so I used it to spray a clear protectant layer over the headlight. Looks great now.

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I think we need to stop posting pictures, they take up too much band width (ever wonder why the site goes down every once in awhile, we exceed our band width and have to buy more). If you could just post links to the pictures, that would help.

 

those are links. they're just HTMLed to photobucket, but they're hosted on photobucket... :grin:

 

and if it's a problem then there shouldn't be the option.

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Thanks, Gents! I found Josh's writeup and I will have at it shortly. It really doesn't seem too involved -- but then I spent some years as a medieval armourer and have done my share of mirror-polishing metals. Aside from the softness of the plastic relative to steel, this doesn't seem difficult at all. It's just the usual kind of time-consuming task that drives my wife nuts when I take it on! :D

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Thanks, Gents! I found Josh's writeup and I will have at it shortly. It really doesn't seem too involved -- but then I spent some years as a medieval armourer and have done my share of mirror-polishing metals. Aside from the softness of the plastic relative to steel, this doesn't seem difficult at all. It's just the usual kind of time-consuming task that drives my wife nuts when I take it on! :D

 

can you link it here?......i don't feel like looking for it.....tired......lazy.......

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lemme get this straight so that i don't fark it all up even worse...

 

 

i need:

 

automotive clearcoat spray paint

various grits of sandpaper ranging from 600 - 2000

 

and thats it.. oh yeah, and water.

 

is it just regular sandpaper? like, for wood? or is there a special kind of sandpaper? i dunno, i'm having a hard time thinking of how tiny pieces of rock are going to make something shiney..

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Here's the deal -- nothing in this here world is really "smooth." At a molecular level at least, everything is somewhat bumpy. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, after you remove all the "oxidation" (i.e. the grey and yellow crap), is to progressively wear away the high spots on that roughened headlamp surface with smaller and smaller pieces of grit -- until you're finally left with a surface that has scratches too small to be seen. Then it appears all smooth and shiny! Usually the grit on 2000 grit sandpaper leaves scratches that are so small, you need a magnifying glass to see them. Although when I was polising steel, I'd often finish off the polishing with some 0000 brass wool (like steel wool but softer) before putting on a clear coat. I don't think that step is necessary for the plastic, since with steel you're actually burnishing (really rubbing off the high spots by smoothing them back into the surface of the steel) and I don't think you can burnish plastic.

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Oh yeah - use wetsand paper. Its grit is bonded to a paper that won't dissolve in water. The reason you use water to begin with is partly as a lubricant/coolant, and partly as a way to carry the bits of stuff that you've worn away from the surface away from where you're working. Without water or some other lubricant, the area that you're sanding will heat up (friction - remember) and those particles that you've successfully worn off will begin to melt and stick back on the surface. Not good, since they don't stick back on smoothly.

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Oh yeah - use wetsand paper. Its grit is bonded to a paper that won't dissolve in water. The reason you use water to begin with is partly as a lubricant/coolant, and partly as a way to carry the bits of stuff that you've worn away from the surface away from where you're working. Without water or some other lubricant, the area that you're sanding will heat up (friction - remember) and those particles that you've successfully worn off will begin to melt and stick back on the surface. Not good, since they don't stick back on smoothly.

 

so theres a special "wetsand" paper. hardware stores or automotive stores?

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Either one -- any auto parts store, most hardware stores have wet sand paper under a variety of trade names. YOu can generally tell if a paper is water compatible just by what it says on the backing of each sheet.

 

excelent. i was going to do this today but guess what....ON MY WAY to the store, my MAF crapped out. luckly i was also on my way to the garage i worked at so i spent the day there fixing it. IT SUCKED 370 bucks.

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those are links. they're just HTMLed to photobucket, but they're hosted on photobucket... :grin:

 

and if it's a problem then there shouldn't be the option.

No those are not links, those are actual pictures that taking up band width on the board, links are like the ones Subie94 used. It's no a matter of whether or not you can do it or not, it is a matter of keeping the costs down for those who provide this board to us free of charge.
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No those are not links, those are actual pictures that taking up band width on the board, links are like the ones Subie94 used. It's no a matter of whether or not you can do it or not, it is a matter of keeping the costs down for those who provide this board to us free of charge.

 

look, i have respect for you because you're a donor and by looking at your post numbers, i see you've been around for a while.

 

however the pictures are not saved on the servers. they're saved on photobucket's servers. they're HTML links.

 

if all of the moderators (or the owner) come into agreement that photos are bad, i'll stop posting them. until then, i'm going to post pictures as much as i want to; and i expect on seeing other people's photos as well.

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look, i have respect for you because you're a donor and by looking at your post numbers, i see you've been around for a while.

 

however the pictures are not saved on the servers. they're saved on photobucket's servers. they're HTML links.

 

if all of the moderators (or the owner) come into agreement that photos are bad, i'll stop posting them. until then, i'm going to post pictures as much as i want to; and i expect on seeing other people's photos as well.

Fine, do what you wish, I was merely asking, not demanding.
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