Mjez Posted June 15, 2006 Author Share Posted June 15, 2006 Matt, Are you planning to swap the cam sensor out to see if that will change things for the better? yes I do, I just didn't have time to go to junkyard to pick one up. I'm definitely going there tomorrow to pick it up since I don't have to be at work until 1pm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjez Posted June 15, 2006 Author Share Posted June 15, 2006 the belt can have jumped on the crank and not the cams. nipper in that case I have no choice to pull all of the covers off and make sure it's still in the right spot. on one hand I hope it is still in the right spot, and on the other I don't, because this would probably fix this problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjez Posted June 15, 2006 Author Share Posted June 15, 2006 Would that affect compression enough for a comp. test to be diagnostic? Also, if the ECU were inhibiting starting, I bet the injectors would be disabled too - so plugs, cylinders would be dry. I'm so lost (in addition to ignorant) I don't remember if the car gets fuel sprayed in it. I dunno Carl cylinders get fuel in them and plugs are soaked in fuel when removed after cranking it with gas pedal depressed. you can also smell gasoline in the engine compartment when doing so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjez Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 could someone please tell me exactly how to check codes? I need to know the color of the connectors and number of pins on them. I thought I did it before but I'm not sure i connected right connectors together. the once I did where green color and they only had one pin each (I think), plus when I did it I had check engine light rapidly flashing so I could not even make any sense of it because it was nothing else just CEL flashing really fast. I also had both fans turning and whole bunch of other stuff started making noises, sounded like bunch of relays were switching. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 could someone please tell me exactly how to check codes? I need to know the color of the connectors and number of pins on them. I thought I did it before but I'm not sure i connected right connectors together. the once I did where green color and they only had one pin each (I think), plus when I did it I had check engine light rapidly flashing so I could not even make any sense of it because it was nothing else just CEL flashing really fast. I also had both fans turning and whole bunch of other stuff started making noises, sounded like bunch of relays were switching. Matt this keeps up im going to start a new thread, this is getting too long for everyone. For a 1995 you need a code reader OBDII (or scanner) to read the codes. The car is acting as it should when you plug those two plugs together. You can rent a scanner from autozone. It may be time to hand it over to shop. It will cost some money, but atleast the car will get running without you driving yourself nuts (meant in a supportive way). Haynes manual explains it in chapter six nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Don't stop now... some cars are meant for driving and some cars are meant for fixing. I'm going out for pizza, what do you want on yours? Nipper is buying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjez Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 Don't stop now... some cars are meant for driving and some cars are meant for fixing. I'm going out for pizza, what do you want on yours? Nipper is buying. I'll have one running Subaru:horse: haha. I'm taking timing belt covers apart now to see if it jumped. I'll let you know in an hour or so. don't forget hot peppers and some cheese on my Subaru Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Don't stop now... some cars are meant for driving and some cars are meant for fixing. I'm going out for pizza, what do you want on yours? Nipper is buying. hey im supplying the keg, not the pizza. i like my pizza plain. Ok a little comic relief When i lived in SLC about 15 years ago, i had a big old oldsmobile of 60's vintage. The timing chain jumped. We decided to replace the timing chain back at the condo i was staying at. (whoever said utah is a dry state should live there). Well i can atest that is possible to get timing gears and a chain on backwards. A nice summer day, some beer, some tequila (ok lots of tequila), a fairly simple project. Well we started the car and it ran fine, drove it 15 feet and all hell broke loose. In our "elated" state, we managed to get the gears on backwards (we wondered why they didnt just slip on ... more tequilla will solve that problem). We decided tequila and car repairs werent a good thing and let it go a few hours before we attacked it again. Man can those mormens drink. now back to your regularly schedualed puzzle. Either we do a road trip to chicago to get his car running or all chip in for a tow truck:lol: nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjez Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 Ok, so here we go again. I took of the timing belt covers and guess what??? Nipper, thank you and sorry I didn’t listen to you earlier, timing belt jumped two teeth at the crank @#$%. I never thought this could be the cause because like I said before I got stuck on the idea that since both cam sprockets timing points match why would it be timing belt, oh well, I guess I was wrong. My biggest apologies for not listening to some of you. But on the other haven’t we had fun, plus didn’t we break the record for the longest thread ever??? Hahaha. I guess you could say I’m just like my dog, stubborn. All right, so now that I know what the problem is I’m really going to need your help to do it right this time. So let’s start with a list of questions. Do I need to get a new timing belt or can I use the old one? When I did timing belt on my BMW I was told not to reuse the same belt after the car was started once because it’ll snap in less than 100 miles. What’s your take on it, after all you guys are Subaru gurus. Do I need to get a new tensioner this time? If so, are we talking tensioner only, or with the tensioner pulley? What other pulleys need to be replaced? Do you recommend replacing all of them, only the once that are not spinning freely or is there a good way to inspect them. How to remove crank sprocket to install new crankshaft oil seal? I guess this is it for now. Once again thank you all for all your time and patience with me, I really appreciate your help. BTW. You can still come to Chicago for a road trip. Just don’t drive through Minnesota. They give really big speeding tickets. Don’t ask me how I knowL Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjez Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 As we were going through all this trouble I found a post with a link somewhere here to a good website on how to do a timing belt, I remember it had like ton of pictures. If you guys know what I’m talking about could you please post it, it would be really helpful with my next project;) Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Ok, so here we go again. I took of the timing belt covers and guess what??? Nipper, thank you and sorry I didn’t listen to you earlier, timing belt jumped two teeth at the crank @#$%. I never thought this could be the cause because like I said before I got stuck on the idea that since both cam sprockets timing points match why would it be timing belt, oh well, I guess I was wrong. My biggest apologies for not listening to some of you. But on the other haven’t we had fun, plus didn’t we break the record for the longest thread ever??? Hahaha. I guess you could say I’m just like my dog, stubborn.All right, so now that I know what the problem is I’m really going to need your help to do it right this time. So let’s start with a list of questions. Do I need to get a new timing belt or can I use the old one? When I did timing belt on my BMW I was told not to reuse the same belt after the car was started once because it’ll snap in less than 100 miles. What’s your take on it, after all you guys are Subaru gurus. Do I need to get a new tensioner this time? If so, are we talking tensioner only, or with the tensioner pulley? What other pulleys need to be replaced? Do you recommend replacing all of them, only the once that are not spinning freely or is there a good way to inspect them. How to remove crank sprocket to install new crankshaft oil seal? I guess this is it for now. Once again thank you all for all your time and patience with me, I really appreciate your help. BTW. You can still come to Chicago for a road trip. Just don’t drive through Minnesota. They give really big speeding tickets. Don’t ask me how I knowL Matt do NOT reuse the timing belt otherwise the next time in chicago i will personally hunt you down . It can be streteched out or have broken/weakened/striped teeth. Yes you are getting a new tensioner (i always bought the assembly myself as the spring can be tired too), but others may have a differnt opinion Along with the main seal also do the cam seals and waterpump. il let somone else with more exp describe how to remove the crank gear (im just tired and the dilaudid is kicking in). But i will tell you MAKE SURE you properly torque that bolt when you reinstall it. That can come back and make your life truly miserable later. Odd i usually go through minisota at 100, but thats on a crotch rocket so i guess they dont bother me. good luck. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 As we were going through all this trouble I found a post with a link somewhere here to a good website on how to do a timing belt, I remember it had like ton of pictures. If you guys know what I’m talking about could you please post it, it would be really helpful with my next project;) Matt How did you compress the tensioner last time? It can be tricky. (congrats by the way on finding the problem - I woulda given up long ago I think!) Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjez Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 How did you compress the tensioner last time? It can be tricky. (congrats by the way on finding the problem - I woulda given up long ago I think!) Carl I went to a local Sears store and used one of their vise that was on the display to compress it while my buddy was on a look out for store emplyees:lol: it took like 30 seconds to do it... you should try it sometime... hehe Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 As we were going through all this trouble I found a post with a link somewhere here to a good website on how to do a timing belt, I remember it had like ton of pictures. If you guys know what I’m talking about could you please post it, it would be really helpful with my next project;) Matt http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5Timing.pdf nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 I went to a local Sears store and used one of their vise that was on the display to compress it while my buddy was on a look out for store emplyees:lol: it took like 30 seconds to do it... you should try it sometime... hehe Matt Well, that SOUNDS tricky all right! I've read that one must close it VVEERRRRRRYY slowly or the seals/whatever will be destroyed. I dunno how one would test it though. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Well, that SOUNDS tricky all right! I've read that one must close it VVEERRRRRRYY slowly or the seals/whatever will be destroyed. I dunno how one would test it though. Carl of course its tricky, first you need to find a sears store nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Lucky is right you need to take at least three minutes, to compress the tensioner, to remove the crank spocket it should come off by hand but you may have to gently work it off with two screwdriver just be careful and dont pry with to much force. If you will get a Haynes manual it will give you good photos and details on the whole timing belt job. I went to a local Sears store and used one of their vise that was on the display to compress it while my buddy was on a look out for store emplyees:lol: it took like 30 seconds to do it... you should try it sometime... hehe Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjez Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 Lucky is right you need to take at least three minutes, to compress the tensioner, to remove the crank spocket it should come off by hand but you may have to gently work it off with two screwdriver just be careful and dont pry with to much force. If you will get a Haynes manual it will give you good photos and details on the whole timing belt job. got Haynes manual and don't like the way it's writen, prefer Bentley manuals but don't even know if they make one for Subaru. anyway, I think the reason why timing slipped was the tensioner pulley which is stuck, it will not turn in either direction. tried turning it with pipe wrench and nothing. hmmm, it seemed good when I was doing timing belt the first time. so do you guys think it would be smarter to change all of the pulleys this time? I whish it was my car then I would just go piece by piece, whatever has to be done would be replaced but this isn't my father's in law way so I'll let him decide whatever he wants to do, hopefuly I'll won't have to do another timing job on his car in the next month or so:horse: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 got Haynes manual and don't like the way it's writen, prefer Bentley manuals but don't even know if they make one for Subaru. anyway, I think the reason why timing slipped was the tensioner pulley which is stuck, it will not turn in either direction. tried turning it with pipe wrench and nothing. hmmm, it seemed good when I was doing timing belt the first time. so do you guys think it would be smarter to change all of the pulleys this time? I whish it was my car then I would just go piece by piece, whatever has to be done would be replaced but this isn't my father's in law way so I'll let him decide whatever he wants to do, hopefuly I'll won't have to do another timing job on his car in the next month or so:horse: Whoa! You lucked out! If the belt had burned through rubbing across that pulley......... well, you probably would've had a demonstration of the phrase - 'catastrophic failure'. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjez Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 Whoa! You lucked out! If the belt had burned through rubbing across that pulley......... well, you probably would've had a demonstration of the phrase - 'catastrophic failure'. Carl why do you say that? I thought those are noninterference motors…at least someone here said they're not... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Whoa! You lucked out! If the belt had burned through rubbing across that pulley......... well, you probably would've had a demonstration of the phrase - 'catastrophic failure'. Carl well a few bent valves at least .... nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 I agree they could stand to be a little more clear. I have never seen the Bentley manual but I will keep a look out for one. got Haynes manual and don't like the way it's writen, prefer Bentley manuals but don't even know if they make one for Subaru. anyway, I think the reason why timing slipped was the tensioner pulley which is stuck, it will not turn in either direction. tried turning it with pipe wrench and nothing. hmmm, it seemed good when I was doing timing belt the first time. so do you guys think it would be smarter to change all of the pulleys this time? I whish it was my car then I would just go piece by piece, whatever has to be done would be replaced but this isn't my father's in law way so I'll let him decide whatever he wants to do, hopefuly I'll won't have to do another timing job on his car in the next month or so:horse: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 I agree they could stand to be a little more clear. I have never seen the Bentley manual but I will keep a look out for one. i love bently manuals, just impossible to find nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjez Posted June 17, 2006 Author Share Posted June 17, 2006 i love bently manuals, just impossible to find nipper check out their web site http://www.bentleypublishers.com/ unfortunately I don't see any manuals for Subaru:( if anyone of you needs spare parts for a `95 Subaru let me know. I got some ignition spares. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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