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Crank pully 22mm help!

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so I wasn't smart enough to loosen the bolt before I removed the engine from the car. My bad. but i've been putting MORE then enough force on it to get it to come off me and my buddy are lifting the motor up trying to loosen it.

 

 

 

is there some kind of ancent secret to getting it off!?

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Impact gun is easiest. whacking the breaker bar with a hammer to shock the bolt might work too. make sure you're trying to loosen it, not accedentially tightening.

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Yeah, now that the engine is out, an impact gun is the only way. Stick a screwdriver in one of the teeth in the flywheel too, to keep the engine still.

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oh the flywheel isn't going anywhere we got that on lockdown impact wrench it is thanks guys.

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Hit it with some PB Blaster, too. Let it soak in 5 minutes, then hit it again and wait another 5 minutes. I'd try to get it off with a breaker bar and a cheater bar ( pipe ), and if that does work, then go to impact wrench. I know when I first pulled mine off, I had to get about 3 feet of advantage with a pipe and my half inch ratchet - came right off once I locked up the flywheel.

 

Good luck

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If the heads are still on, the old rope trick will work.

 

If the heads are off, put the flywheel back on and drill a hole in the bellhousing that will line up with the hole in the flywheel. Drop the fattest screwdriver you can fit in the hole ( I have an old one that fits perfectly.. have used it as a flywheel stopper probably 10 times).

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Rotate cylinder #1 to bottom dead center.. pull the spark plug.. Fill the clynder with nylon rope. After it is filled, the rope will cause the piston to sieze when you start attempting to undo the crank pully. This will effectively stop the crank from turning, without damaging anything inside.

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Oldest trick in the book. Its the only way I lock my cylinders :)

 

Spray some PB Blaster on that bolt... then tap it with a hammer. Vibration and PB Blaster can go a LONG way.

 

Usually all you need is a breaker bar.

 

-Brian

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You guys think too much sometimes. If the flywheel is on, it is super simple to run a pressure-plate bolt through a chain link and hook the other end of the chain around a bolt or stud on the bellhousing. (I normally use the same chain that I used to hoist out the engine.)

 

No reason to risk bending valves or causing FOD.

 

For the crank bolt, either an impact-wrench or a breaker bar and hammer.

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yea I'm using 2 pressure plate bolts part of the engine side belhousing, and one of the lower engine studs to pry agenst

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socket wrench with some hefty whacks from a large hammer will work. hit it hard and fast. it's like a make-shift impact wrench. just did it two days ago. really doesn't take much to get the motor to roll over sitting on the ground, so need to get it to set still/brace it enough to use a breaker bar.

 

they are typically tight and should be...saves your pulley from coming off.

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can some one confrim that I am loosing the bolt with lefty loosy ? or is it reverse thread ?

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man just drive to a shop locally and have a mechanic zip it off for you with an impact gun, if you don't want to pay money come to bothell at my shop and i'll get it off for ya

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can some one confrim that I am loosing the bolt with lefty loosy ? or is it reverse thread ?

Yep - lefty loosey, righty tighty. not reversed

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anybody know of or work at a shop around Olympia ? all efforts have failed and I just want this sob off.

 

Things I've tried already

Breaker bar + 4 foot extention me lifting my self off the ground while holding onto the bar (I weigh 210lbs)

hitting it with an impact gun for an hour or so

heating it up with a torch and then trying both of the above

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anybody know of or work at a shop around Olympia ? all efforts have failed and I just want this sob off.

 

Things I've tried already

Breaker bar + 4 foot extention me lifting my self off the ground while holding onto the bar (I weigh 210lbs)

hitting it with an impact gun for an hour or so

heating it up with a torch and then trying both of the above

Thing to try: The aforementioned breakerbar resting on a secure spot on driver's side frame area, disconnect coil, turn starter.

 

FOD: Foreign Object Damage

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